What should I do?

BristleWormHater

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Need some advice on what I should do. Here's everything I've done over the past 11 days
Dosed 200mg of reef flux fluconazole for bryopsis 11 days ago.
Bryopsis has died off
Instructions said wait 14 days to do a 30% water change.
Everything has been happy and the corals gave been open.
Tested nitrate= 0ppm on Sunday
Tested phosphate= almost undetectable on Sunday
Tank has been in the ugly stage I'll link a thread about that in a second post.
Added 2 blue leg hermits 1 trochus snail 2 cerith snails. On Sunday
Fed mysis shrimp to corals on Monday dropped some around for the crabs and bristleworms and to increase nitrate and phosphate
Today tested nitrate and phosphate same results as Sunday. Corals haven't fully opened today usually they have by this time, should I be concerned?
 

TX_REEF

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Hello!

Tank size/age?
Filtration?

I also struggled with zero N and P for months what did it for me was nixing the skimmer and algae scrubber and feeding reef roids.
 

DanyL

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Generally you want them to be at least somewhat detectable.

Some like them higher, others lower - but all do need them.

There are many options to elevate them - between feeding more heavily, introducing more fish, limiting filtration and dosing them. Pick one that suites your tank the best and go with it.
 
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Hello!

Tank size/age?
Filtration?

I also struggled with zero N and P for months what did it for me was nixing the skimmer and algae scrubber and feeding reef roids.
25 gallon lagoon tank from IM 3 months old
Filter socks and filter floss cleaned the filter socks around August 26-30 and replaced filter floss.
 
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BristleWormHater

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I would like to elaborate that even while nitrate and phosphate have been zero the corals were still opened, but today they aren't, I'm a little concerned I overfed the blasto I gave it 3 peices of mysis to it's largest head and I mysis to the smaller heads.
 
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TX_REEF

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well, if the corals are acting differently, you have to consider what has changed since they last looked happy. It seems that adding flux is the only factor, unless I'm missing something. A few mysis shrimp, which are mostly water by content, would not cause all of your corals to become unhappy.
 
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well, if the corals are acting differently, you have to consider what has changed since they last looked happy. It seems that adding flux is the only factor, unless I'm missing something. A few mysis shrimp, which are mostly water by content, would not cause all of your corals to become unhappy.
It's hard for me to keep track, but I also have dosed mb7 bacteria haphazardly over 11 days I think 4 cap fulls in total. Yesterday I dosed some phyto I didn't measure how much, I just haphazardly put some in because the batch is about to expire. I wouldn't think that has anything to with it but it does kind of look like my blastomussa is curling towards its mouth so maybe it's eating phyto?
 

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My 2c:

Stop dosing bacteria, Phyto, algaecides, etc for a bit and let the tank stabilize.

Do the recommended water change, then feed the fish and snails, and maybe turn off the filter roller and pull the filter sock out for a few days.

Then wait.

I wouldn’t adjust the lights until you verify the PAR with a par meter (if you haven’t already), given how much corals can cost I’d suggest doing this sooner rather than later - if you have an LFS they’ll probably have one they can lend or rent.
 

TX_REEF

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if I were you, I'd do one thing at a time, that way you can see what does and doesn't work. If you add/remove/dose a bunch of different things simultaneously, it's impossible to tell what helps and what hurts. I'd avoid dosing or removing anything else until the flux cycle is completed with the water change per the instructions.
 
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Here's some pics. All of the corals seem to be closed in but not closed up. The blasto is the best example but I can post more pics if needed.
Today
20240903_161644.jpg

Today
20240903_161620.jpg

August 21
20240821_165446.jpg

August 21
20240821_165033.jpg
 
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BristleWormHater

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if I were you, I'd do one thing at a time, that way you can see what does and doesn't work. If you add/remove/dose a bunch of different things simultaneously, it's impossible to tell what helps and what hurts. I'd avoid dosing or removing anything else until the flux cycle is completed with the water change per the instructions.
Got it.
 
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BristleWormHater

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Oh also I thought I'd mention I have no fish and for awhile the only things in the tank were 1 trochus snail and 2 ceriths. Maybe that's why phosphates and nitrate are so low?
 

DanyL

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Yes, it makes sense.

You either need fish which are fed, or you’ll have to supplement nutrients in a different way. In my opinion - over feeding and letting the food rot creates a lot of eventual detritus, so I would mix between feeding your corals and dosing the rest as necessary.

I join @TX_REEF suggestion to wait until after the water change. I don’t see anything concerning with your corals either.
 
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BristleWormHater

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Yes, it makes sense.

You either need fish which are fed, or you’ll have to supplement nutrients in a different way. In my opinion - over feeding and letting the food rot creates a lot of eventual detritus, so I would mix between feeding your corals and dosing the rest as necessary.

I join @TX_REEF suggestion to wait until after the water change. I don’t see anything concerning with your corals either.
Ok thank you!
 

TX_REEF

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Oh also I thought I'd mention I have no fish and for awhile the only things in the tank were 1 trochus snail and 2 ceriths. Maybe that's why phosphates and nitrate are so low?
Definitely, think about adding a fish or 2 after the flux situation is done. Nothing better/easier than ammonia from live fish for coral sustenance.
 

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