What is PAR and how much do we need?

ShepherdReefer

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The Photosynthetic Active Radiation (PAR) is a term used within the reef tank community when talking about lighting. Lighting is one of the most importing aspects of the reef aquarium, partly because many aquarium organisms require lighting to maintain or increase their growth and too high of a PAR can increase the growth of unwanted algae. Photosynthetic is the process by which these organisms transform light energy into food. Corals have tiny plants called zooxanthellae living within their tissue and so together they are called photosynthetic. The PAR is the measurement of light emission within the photosynthetic range of 400-700nm (nm is Nano-meter).

Screen Shot 2021-01-12 at 1.05.23 PM.png

There are a few ways we can measure the lighting in the aquarium, such as lumens and lux meters but we are talking about PAR. Most, if not all, PAR meters are actually favorited within the reef community because they work well with LED lighting. I purchased an Apogee MQ-510 but I think any LED meter will be fine.


Screen Shot 2021-01-12 at 1.06.06 PM.png

When I purchased this meter, there was no instruction on how to use the meter but the instructions can be viewed from Apogee’s website. You can search the internet, especially YouTube, and find different ways of testing…It is really easy. One item to note while using the meter, the PAR displayed will have a fluctuation range of reading.

For me, just starting out adding corals in my saltwater aquariums, my knowledge was not up to the challenge. My main problem was when purchasing corals from either an online store or local store, the descriptions stated the required lighting needs such as low, moderate, high, or extreme light. But what do these levels mean? Without a discussion on more specifics information regarding PAR, I want to talk about these few requirement levels.

In general, corals with low values are considered to less than 100 and high values are generally over 250/300, so that means anything in the middle is medium values.
  • Soft corals are low values
  • LPS corals are medium values
  • SPS corals are high values
From my research, the below table has a little more detail:

SpeciesLight LevelPAR Range
Low light LPSLow50 - 100
Soft CoralsLow – Moderate50 - 200
LPSModerate100 - 200
Derasa Clams, Anemones SPSHigh200 - 300
Montipora and other SPSIntense300 - 400
Crocea, Maxima Clams, AcroExtreme400 – 500+

Recap:
  • Low < 100
  • Moderate 100 – 200
  • High 200 – 300
  • Intense 300 – 400
  • Extreme > 400
With this rule of thumb, most corals will adapt to different levels when given time to acclimate. Such as LPS corals can handle greater PARs up to 500, and soft corals will adjust to PAR over 200 with adequate time to adjust so they can adapt to a wide range of lighting over time.

The lighting schedule can also play a huge role in the success of the reef aquarium regarding PAR levels. I tried to match the Sun with the respect to the rotation around the Earth. I set up my LED lighting on Apex Fusion to mirror Sun’s rise and fall. Here is what my schedule looks like.

Screen Shot 2021-01-12 at 1.07.55 PM.png


The schedule has changed a few times since the beginning and I am sure it will change again.

Chasing PAR values can be time-consuming but can be more beneficial and observe these values based on individual needs and reactions. When purchasing a new coral and knowing the PAR before adding a coral into the new population can be a huge advantage. Something else to consider if no PAR meter is available, in the lower lights levels corals will lose their color and grow slower but if too bright, the corals will bleach and die faster.
 
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ahopki1

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I'm pretty sure I burned (and killed) a coral I just added to my tank. Have a new light on it that I got for Christmas. The coral (Copps CaliCali) shed its skin this morning. :( I have a par meter I will be using and attention to your guidelines will be used. Thanks for the detailed information.
 
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ShepherdReefer

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I'm pretty sure I burned (and killed) a coral I just added to my tank. Have a new light on it that I got for Christmas. The coral (Copps CaliCali) shed its skin this morning. :( I have a par meter I will be using and attention to your guidelines will be used. Thanks for the detailed information.

What was the PAR on the coral? What kind of light did you get for Christmas?
 

Arcticreef

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I like the article. Where I struggle with suggested PAR values is how they relate to different light types. Or is there not enough difference to warrant PAR guidelines for each light source?

I have a pair of RedSea LED90s on my 100 DT and recently ran some tests using a Apogee par tester (think it was a couple years old already). Being careful to use a stick to avoid shadows on the sensor my max value in the tank was only 270 (centre, upper third). This value is considered highonnthe table but not montipora high. Average across the tank is around 170.

The issue is that my recently purchased birds nest has bleached quite badly after 2 weeks of healthy growth. More quizically is that I dropped my light intensity to 50% after 2 weeks. But sadly no change. Have now moved it to the side but still in mod strong flow.

I'm still a newbie here but I feel like coral placement is about educated guessing of the approximate position and then not being afraid to move it and re-glue it when it starts to look I'll after a minimum of a week or 2. OR maybe I'm not light acclimating it enough in the first place...
 

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ShepherdReefer

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I like the article. Where I struggle with suggested PAR values is how they relate to different light types. Or is there not enough difference to warrant PAR guidelines for each light source?

I have a pair of RedSea LED90s on my 100 DT and recently ran some tests using a Apogee par tester (think it was a couple years old already). Being careful to use a stick to avoid shadows on the sensor my max value in the tank was only 270 (centre, upper third). This value is considered highonnthe table but not montipora high. Average across the tank is around 170.

The issue is that my recently purchased birds nest has bleached quite badly after 2 weeks of healthy growth. More quizically is that I dropped my light intensity to 50% after 2 weeks. But sadly no change. Have now moved it to the side but still in mod strong flow.

I'm still a newbie here but I feel like coral placement is about educated guessing of the approximate position and then not being afraid to move it and re-glue it when it starts to look I'll after a minimum of a week or 2. OR maybe I'm not light acclimating it enough in the first place...

From my experience, keeping coral is more than just light/PAR. When did you set up the tank? What are the parameters? Are you using RO water and not tap water? Did you test the PAR at the brightest time of the day?
 

MnFish1

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From my experience, keeping coral is more than just light/PAR. When did you set up the tank? What are the parameters? Are you using RO water and not tap water? Did you test the PAR at the brightest time of the day?
I really liked the article - I would make 2 comments - before I buy any coral - I ask the store what PAR they are kept at. For example - they may be keeping a clam at 200 PAR. If you decide to quickly bump it up to 500 - you might (probably will) have problems - and vice versa.

I would make the following other comments:

1. The higher the alkalinity and lower the flow - the more problems you can have with too high a PAR. For example - I keep lots of "low light LPS" at 400 PAR - and they do fine - but they have acclimated to it over years.
2. If you dont know the PAR in your tank - starting 'lower' -and gradually increasing - often will cause less problems than the other way around.

AGAIN - I really liked the article
 

GoVols

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@ShepherdReefer

Great article!

Just to back up your writeup:

Have talked to Apogee, if you don't use an led par meter (while pushing leds) the readings can be off by 20% in the blue spectrum.

If your pushing MH or T5's the other (non led) par meters are fine, but the led meter will work for all three.

Thanks!
 
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ShepherdReefer

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@ShepherdReefer

Great article!

Just to back up your writeup:

Have talked to Apogee, if you don't use an led par meter (while pushing leds) the readings can be off by 20% in the blue spectrum.

If your pushing MH or T5's the other (non led) par meters are fine, but the led meter will work for all three.

Thanks!

Great to know, thanks for that information. Good stuff.
 
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ShepherdReefer

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I wonder exactly the same question as actinicreef. Should it be the same chart with led or t5. My tank is sps dominant and with my Reefi led lamp, i hesitate to go over 400 par.

Good afternoon, did you read GoVols response. Good information. The PAR unit I have is for LEDs so it will work for different kinds of light.
 

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My question is: over what peak intensity period would you expect this?
I had a conversation with Dana on this a few weeks back, and despite his best efforts, I’m thick, so I understood about 27.3% of what he said.

For example, you say for acros that 400 - 500+ is something to aim for, over 6 hours, 8, 10? Does it matter if there is ramp up time?
 

Vamsi

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So I am looking to purchase this par meter
But at the same time it does NOT say it is a full spectrum meter compared to the more expensive models, 510, 520. Any advice/suggestions ?
 

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So I am looking to purchase this par meter
But at the same time it does NOT say it is a full spectrum meter compared to the more expensive models, 510, 520. Any advice/suggestions ?

Its not full spectrum, it’s the older model from a few years back.
You‘d be just as well getting a Seneye, or renting an MQ510.

I have an MQ510, used it four times and the last time was just because I was bored.
 
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