Wet/Dry Filtering

[Kasey Grohowski]

I've heard before people say wet dry filtering is a huge nitrate/nitrite factory not sure which one. Anyway just wondering if they are better than just ordinary sumps or if they are not worth it.

 

[Brad Miller]

When I was a kid, my uncle used this in a tower type set up, he always said it worked great as long as he kept the maintenance up on the prefilter material.
I think back then, it was just how they did it.

 

[davocean]

Not the best choice for a reef as yes, they typically can be a nitrate sink, but if that is what you had it could be doable, I just would not run bioballs or media if it allows.
They could be more doable for a FO system where higher nitrates would not be such an issue.

 

[Waters]

Wet dry filters are still used quite a bit in freshwater....not so much in saltwater only because the bioballs do not have the ability to turn nitrates into nitrate gas like good quality live rock can/does. The nitrate builds up unless you keep up with sufficient water changes. As long as you rinse them in saltwater every once in a while and keep nitrates in check, they will work fine.

 

[Captain Quint]

I have many wet/dry units. Replacing the BioBalls from day one with LR and LR rubble worked well for me with no nitrate issues.

Those who use the BioBalls will eventually have some pretty high nitrates.

 

[jtl]

Wet/dry filters were the rage back in the 80's. Those were the days of FO tanks, raising corals was rare. I have had several, using bioballs and filter media.

 

[Captain Quint]

I had several wet/dry sumps in the '80s and '90s and they were used quite a bit back then, but they were also widespread in the early 2000s as well under the guise of 'a better mousetrap' I, however, jerked BioBalls before setup.

I do recall have coral with every kind of sump I've run including the wet/dry conversions to LR versus BioBalls.

 

[alton]

I have been using a wet/dry/trickle filter since 1991, as a matter of a fact a friend still uses my original. I first used bio bale and then switched over to bio balls. When I bought my Planet Crystalline it came with a regular sump with different sections and a filter sock which to me is a pain. After a couple issues I built a wet/dry and switched it out and never looked back. My best two tanks one a 200 oceanic which I had setup for ten years the nitrates stayed between 2 and 5ppm the last five years. My 158 office tank in 2008 never went over two. Of course having a lot of softies helped out. I don’t use the tower with bio balls for biological load but as a great way to add oxygen to my tanks since they all have glass or polycarbonate tops. I clean or throw out the blue filter fluff in the drip tray when it gets dirty and the bio balls stay clean. Your sump is just a part of your system like many others to keep our tanks working well. I am old and slow to change, and yes I still use Urchin and Urchin Pro Skimmers. One thing using a wet dry/trickle filter I have never had a tank crash. A funny story a friend of mine who has the perfect tank but always looking for something better uses a typical sump with bio pellets and for years his nitrates stayed around 1ppm. Well something happened and for some reason he took his bio pellets off line and in a few months saw his nitrates clime up to twenty, and a few month later he noticed his corals had much better color than ever before. I have attached the one on my 180 and the second is from my crystalline

 

[Aqbioxprt]

I've heard before people say wet dry filtering is a huge nitrate/nitrite factory not sure which one. Anyway just wondering if they are better than just ordinary sumps or if they are not worth it.

It’s ironic you state that wet/dry filters are “Okay” for Freshwater aquariums but “Not Okay” for Saltwater aquariums. This statement is unbelievably hypocritical. Why would you even say that? Did you know that the wet/dry trickle filter was originally designed specifically for saltwater (marine Reef) aquariums?

I think the key words in your question is; “I’ve heard people say” The fact that you are conducting this inquiry tells me you sense that you have been led astray by said “people” being unsure, therefore you wish to rephrase asking “Can I hear a reply from what a reliable source has to say about it” Well I’m here to tell you, as the original pioneer of wet dry trickle filtration for the aquarium hobby that a “Properly designed” wet dry trickle filter is far superior to “ANY” other type of filter or the so called sump set up for the aquarium hobby. It is very important to fixate on my words “Properly designed” since DIY’s have skewed the wet/dry reputation by concocting items they labeled as a wet dry filter, but actually were not. By using improper medias’ of the incorrect type, water distribution methods, placement, and order will create different outcomes. So if one does not understand those values, it can be very easy to receive negative results.

By defining your own words “Huge Nitrite/Nitrate factory” you can easily answer your own question.

You label a wet/dry filter as;

Huge- meaning extremely large; enormous, “a huge area”, of considerable importance or seriousness, very popular or successful

Nitrite/Nitrate- The waste products of two beneficial bacteria, that become a food source for two of the three stages in the bio-remediation process (Nitrogen cycle).

factory- an industrial facility. (In this case, a wet dry unit)

The above defines what is generally referred to as “The Nitrogen Cycle” otherwise understood to consume and convert present toxins into a food source for other life forms in the aquarium. In a settled aquarium, this cycle is perpetual (occurring repeatedly; so frequent as to seem endless) so long as it is uninterrupted on a molecular level. This self-sustainability is what stabilizes the water purity of the aquarium system and drastically reduces maintenance.

You also label the other item as “Ordinary sump”;

Ordinary- with no special or distinctive features

Sumps- a pit or hollow in which liquid collects bringing or gather together (things, typically when scattered or widespread.

A sump has no bio remediation capabilities of redeeming value and therefore is not capable of producing any form of the nitrogen cycle making it almost pointless. The so-called “sump system” was actually a bi-product (or a catch box) extension for inferior protein skimmers that overflow because they cannot maintain proper adjustment. **Note** an easy giveaway to detect an inferior protein skimmer Is; ANY model/brand that uses some device or valve to restrict effluent discharge.

Protein skimmers do not operate very well on fresh water aquarium systems because freshwater is not as dense as saltwater therefore freshwater cannot obtain the fine effervescent froth necessary to attach and collect free floating proteins. This is the reason why you hear people use wet dry filters more on fresh water set-ups. A question you should ask yourself as well as others is; why they feel it is okay to use a wet dry filter on a freshwater aquarium but not Marine (saltwater) Is nitrate is viewed as a bad thing then why is it less important in fresh water than it is in saltwater?

The answer; the bottom line is normal levels of nitrate, in any aquarium, is not harmful to the inhabitants living in it. In all reality nitrates are a naturally occurring necessary stage needed to complete the nitrogen cycle. The nitrates are consumed by plants and algae producing much needed oxygen and carbohydrates for any fish, crustaceans, and invertebrates (corals) within the aquarium. Nitrates when combined with a light source create an optimal environment for plants and algae to grow. Although this is a necessary stage in the nitrogen cycle it usually occurs in the aquarium display so that is where most of the algae will flourish. I find that certain types of algae help beautify the display when harvested properly. However; excessive algae buildup in the display can overtake and “choke out” certain corals. Now don’t misunderstand what I am saying, in nature corals co-exist with algae and it is a necessary partnership but excessive amounts of algae can be detrimental so it must be clearly understood that algae growth must be contained in a controlled environment so the benefits are gained yet the negative effects are prevented. This can be done by providing a better optimal environment aft the wet dry (where nitrates are condensed) and prior to the display aquarium. This can be in the form of an algae scrubber or a refugium where the algae and/or plant life can be easily controlled by harvesting.

**Side note** there is a company that makes independent refugium insert units that can be set up to either rest in or set up beside to drain into the utility sump portion of a wet dry filter

Look there is a lot of great proven reasons mostly common sense for using a wet/dry trickle filter over any other device out there no matter what kind of aquarium; marine, shallow reef, deep water reef, brackish or fresh water provided you get one that is “properly designed” like they were during their inception.

I could sit here for days on end describing even more benefits of wet dry trickle filters but I’ll save that for another time.

I hope this information was helpful. In the mean time when someone in this hobby tells you something they feel you should believe by simply taking their word for it, ask them to give you some common sense evidence to back their claim. If they hmm & haw then you should be concerned and do more research.

 

[Aqbioxprt]

Wet/dry filters were the rage back in the 80's. Those were the days of FO tanks, raising corals was rare. I have had several, using bioballs and filter media.

It was the inception of wet/dry that opened opened the Coral Market

 

[Aqbioxprt]

It was the inception of wet/dry that opened opened the Coral Market

 

[Aqbioxprt]

It’s ironic you state that wet/dry filters are “Okay” for Freshwater aquariums but “Not Okay” for Saltwater aquariums. This statement is unbelievably hypocritical. Why would you even say that? Did you know that the wet/dry trickle filter was originally designed specifically for saltwater (marine Reef) aquariums?

I think the key words in your question is; “I’ve heard people say” The fact that you are conducting this inquiry tells me you sense that you have been led astray by said “people” being unsure, therefore you wish to rephrase asking “Can I hear a reply from what a reliable source has to say about it” Well I’m here to tell you, as the original pioneer of wet dry trickle filtration for the aquarium hobby that a “Properly designed” wet dry trickle filter is far superior to “ANY” other type of filter or the so called sump set up for the aquarium hobby. It is very important to fixate on my words “Properly designed” since DIY’s have skewed the wet/dry reputation by concocting items they labeled as a wet dry filter, but actually were not. By using improper medias’ of the incorrect type, water distribution methods, placement, and order will create different outcomes. So if one does not understand those values, it can be very easy to receive negative results.

By defining your own words “Huge Nitrite/Nitrate factory” you can easily answer your own question.

You label a wet/dry filter as;

Huge- meaning extremely large; enormous, “a huge area”, of considerable importance or seriousness, very popular or successful

Nitrite/Nitrate- The waste products of two beneficial bacteria, that become a food source for two of the three stages in the bio-remediation process (Nitrogen cycle).

factory- an industrial facility. (In this case, a wet dry unit)

The above defines what is generally referred to as “The Nitrogen Cycle” otherwise understood to consume and convert present toxins into a food source for other life forms in the aquarium. In a settled aquarium, this cycle is perpetual (occurring repeatedly; so frequent as to seem endless) so long as it is uninterrupted on a molecular level. This self-sustainability is what stabilizes the water purity of the aquarium system and drastically reduces maintenance.

You also label the other item as “Ordinary sump”;

Ordinary- with no special or distinctive features

Sumps- a pit or hollow in which liquid collects bringing or gather together (things, typically when scattered or widespread.

A sump has no bio remediation capabilities of redeeming value and therefore is not capable of producing any form of the nitrogen cycle making it almost pointless. The so-called “sump system” was actually a bi-product (or a catch box) extension for inferior protein skimmers that overflow because they cannot maintain proper adjustment. **Note** an easy giveaway to detect an inferior protein skimmer Is; ANY model/brand that uses some device or valve to restrict effluent discharge.

Protein skimmers do not operate very well on fresh water aquarium systems because freshwater is not as dense as saltwater therefore freshwater cannot obtain the fine effervescent froth necessary to attach and collect free floating proteins. This is the reason why you hear people use wet dry filters more on fresh water set-ups. A question you should ask yourself as well as others is; why they feel it is okay to use a wet dry filter on a freshwater aquarium but not Marine (saltwater) Is nitrate is viewed as a bad thing then why is it less important in fresh water than it is in saltwater?

The answer; the bottom line is normal levels of nitrate, in any aquarium, is not harmful to the inhabitants living in it. In all reality nitrates are a naturally occurring necessary stage needed to complete the nitrogen cycle. The nitrates are consumed by plants and algae producing much needed oxygen and carbohydrates for any fish, crustaceans, and invertebrates (corals) within the aquarium. Nitrates when combined with a light source create an optimal environment for plants and algae to grow. Although this is a necessary stage in the nitrogen cycle it usually occurs in the aquarium display so that is where most of the algae will flourish. I find that certain types of algae help beautify the display when harvested properly. However; excessive algae buildup in the display can overtake and “choke out” certain corals. Now don’t misunderstand what I am saying, in nature corals co-exist with algae and it is a necessary partnership but excessive amounts of algae can be detrimental so it must be clearly understood that algae growth must be contained in a controlled environment so the benefits are gained yet the negative effects are prevented. This can be done by providing a better optimal environment aft the wet dry (where nitrates are condensed) and prior to the display aquarium. This can be in the form of an algae scrubber or a refugium where the algae and/or plant life can be easily controlled by harvesting.

**Side note** there is a company that makes independent refugium insert units that can be set up to either rest in or set up beside to drain into the utility sump portion of a wet dry filter

Look there is a lot of great proven reasons mostly common sense for using a wet/dry trickle filter over any other device out there no matter what kind of aquarium; marine, shallow reef, deep water reef, brackish or fresh water provided you get one that is “properly designed” like they were during their inception.

I could sit here for days on end describing even more benefits of wet dry trickle filters but I’ll save that for another time.

I hope this information was helpful. In the mean time when someone in this hobby tells you something they feel you should believe by simply taking their word for it, ask them to give you some common sense evidence to back their claim. If they hmm & haw then you should be concerned and do more research.