Very high tin levels (join the club?)

[Beefyreefy]

So now, I too have very high tin in my display tank. It measures 105.9 micrograms per liter according to ATI, which other than some elevated phosphates (I feed heavy) was pretty underwhelming. I’ve had slow tissue necrosis work it’s way back and forth across the tank, lost 1/2 my euphyllia, and oddly enough Hollywood stunner is dying. My BTA seems unhappy as well. Because of these issues and rather boring self testing results. I sent off the ATI ICP test. I’ve checked my pumps and magnets and no issues. Can rusty hinges not in the tank actually elevate tin so markedly? Same question for plastic tubing. I generaLy do pretty frequent small water changes except I did a fluconazole treatment recently and withheld changes for a month or two. I should note that I started having STN before the fluconazole, but I thought it had stopped so I went a head with it. I’d actually be shocked about the tin level if it weren’t for my STN. What should I do here? I started doing frequent water changes again.

 

[MnFish1]

I have wondered - if there is really any data that shows Tin is a 'problem' - I mean - it might be elevated - but does it cause 'problems'. Here is a calculator to use - to determine how much water you need to change to get your level down to 'where you want it'. I would then wait a month - and see if your levels increase again. BTW - maybe tin is in your food. Or some other additive - I don't see how hinges would do this. Hope this helps:

Effect of Water Changes Calculator

Aquarium calculator; Estimate the effect of repeated water changes on the concentration of a given substance.

www.hamzasreef.com

 

[Betex]

I had same issue and I purchased some Continuum HM within 1-2 weeks Tin was gone removes all other heavy metals that are so called “unsafe”. Iron and other metals needed stayed without any issues.

 

[Beefyreefy]

I have wondered - if there is really any data that shows Tin is a 'problem' - I mean - it might be elevated - but does it cause 'problems'. Here is a calculator to use - to determine how much water you need to change to get your level down to 'where you want it'. I would then wait a month - and see if your levels increase again. BTW - maybe tin is in your food. Or some other additive - I don't see how hinges would do this. Hope this helps:

Effect of Water Changes Calculator

Aquarium calculator; Estimate the effect of repeated water changes on the concentration of a given substance.

www.hamzasreef.com

Don’t get me wrong, I am some what skeptical about Tin being bad. However, according to my research, my levels are very high. In order to move forward I need to get my tin to acceptable levels and see if my problems go away. I’ve read in other threads that people seem to think that rusty cabinet hinges can cause elevated tin and I’m extremely skeptical about that as a cause. I was hoping I’d find an obvious cause but since I can’t, I guess it’s water changes and see if it drops. Thanks for the calculator.

 

[Beefyreefy]

I had same issue and I purchased some Continuum HM within 1-2 weeks Tin was gone removes all other heavy metals that are so called “unsafe”. Iron and other metals needed stayed without any issues.

I will definitely give this a try as part of my plan.

 

[Crustaceon]

I have wondered - if there is really any data that shows Tin is a 'problem' - I mean - it might be elevated - but does it cause 'problems'. Here is a calculator to use - to determine how much water you need to change to get your level down to 'where you want it'. I would then wait a month - and see if your levels increase again. BTW - maybe tin is in your food. Or some other additive - I don't see how hinges would do this. Hope this helps:

Effect of Water Changes Calculator

Aquarium calculator; Estimate the effect of repeated water changes on the concentration of a given substance.

www.hamzasreef.com

That’s what I’ve always wondered. I always hear “my tin is really high!” Ok, so what happens as a result? It makes me think it’s probably like how people used to think of nitrates and phosphates. “Oh no, I have measurable Po4! Gotta strip the tank and start over!”

 

[Beefyreefy]

I will add that oddly enough, many of my corals are resistant to what is killing others. My softies and even some sps continue to grow, but euphyllia, chalices and acans don’t like whatever is going on. I’ve found that my large Hollywood stunner colony has been resistant to everything up until recently, and suffered 50% die off.

 

[MnFish1]

I will add that oddly enough, many of my corals are resistant to what is killing others. My softies and even some sps continue to grow, but euphyllia, chalices and acans don’t like whatever is going on. I’ve found that my large Hollywood stunner colony has been resistant to everything up until recently, and suffered 50% die off.

Do you run carbon? Have you considered that one of your fish are eating on some of them? Do you think that they may be competing?

 

[Beefyreefy]

I’ve run carbon off and on, don’t notice much of a difference. Currently no carbon running, I have a massive skimmer and a large UV sterilizer. I don’t think it’s chemical warfare, most of my corals are large established colonies, they’ve been in the tank for several years and the STN problem is new. Honestly anything is possible I guess. I’m going to try and address all the current issues. I have a carbon reactor I can put back on line, anything helps at this point. I also have a very careful fish selection, no coral munchers (pretty sure anyway). I’ve got a few various tangs, a pair of clowns, cardinals, a wrasse and a Foxface. I guess the only concern is the foxface but I’ve never seen him eat coral. I feed a large sheet of nori everyday to keep the grazers full.

Do you run carbon? Have you considered that one of your fish are eating on some of them? Do you think that they may be competing?

 

[Frontosa]

Is it a corallife turbo twist uv? You use.

 

[Betex]

Don’t get me wrong, I am some what skeptical about Tin being bad. However, according to my research, my levels are very high. In order to move forward I need to get my tin to acceptable levels and see if my problems go away. I’ve read in other threads that people seem to think that rusty cabinet hinges can cause elevated tin and I’m extremely skeptical about that as a cause. I was hoping I’d find an obvious cause but since I can’t, I guess it’s water changes and see if it drops. Thanks for the calculator.

My understanding is that tin on reefs most of time come from plastics, a tube, rodi station etc specially when it’s new.

 

[Frontosa]

Reason i ask this is what was inside of my turbotwist looked like contacted cs they sent me out a new "design" they said

 

[Beefyreefy]

Is it a corallife turbo twist uv? You use.

No mine is a 54watt jeabo pond UV unit. It’s actually not to old either. To be honest I don’t know what it looks like on the inside, maybe it’s worth a look? I’ll add it to my list.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

So now, I too have very high tin in my display tank. It measures 105.9 micrograms per liter according to ATI, which other than some elevated phosphates (I feed heavy) was pretty underwhelming. I’ve had slow tissue necrosis work it’s way back and forth across the tank, lost 1/2 my euphyllia, and oddly enough Hollywood stunner is dying. My BTA seems unhappy as well. Because of these issues and rather boring self testing results. I sent off the ATI ICP test. I’ve checked my pumps and magnets and no issues. Can rusty hinges not in the tank actually elevate tin so markedly? Same question for plastic tubing. I generaLy do pretty frequent small water changes except I did a fluconazole treatment recently and withheld changes for a month or two. I should note that I started having STN before the fluconazole, but I thought it had stopped so I went a head with it. I’d actually be shocked about the tin level if it weren’t for my STN. What should I do here? I started doing frequent water changes again.

There are many problems in associating high tin with toxicity, not the least being that it may take many different forms with different toxicity, but yours is not high enough to be an apparent problem. Some folks have it 10x higher than you do.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

That’s what I’ve always wondered. I always hear “my tin is really high!” Ok, so what happens as a result? It makes me think it’s probably like how people used to think of nitrates and phosphates. “Oh no, I have measurable Po4! Gotta strip the tank and start over!”

Some folks have serious organism problems. It's not a joke or a misunderstanding.

But it is also true that 10 ug/L is not "Very high tin" in the context of what causes problems in reefs.

 

[Beefyreefy]

Some folks have serious organism problems. It's not a joke or a misunderstanding.

But it is also true that 10 ug/L is not "Very high tin" in the context of what causes problems in reefs.

My tin is 106 ug/l not 10 ug/l, I’m not sure if I made a typo. I’ll check and edit if it says 10 in my original post.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

My tin is 106 ug/l not 10 ug/l, I’m not sure if I made a typo. I’ll check and edit if it says 10 in my original post.

OK, perhaps I confused two posts. That is fairly high, and since you report some coral issues, I'd look for the source (which can be a variety of different things) and also export more (if possible).

If you haven't already, I'd read this thread:

Tin Leaching from Common Plastic Tubing and a Very Inert Tubing that I Found

I'm sure many of you are tired of me posting about tin leaching from plastic, but for those having "tin problems" this might be helpful. Although I found tin leaching from many plastic products, I found that plastic tubing may be the worst culprit. I performed "soak tests" where I would soak...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Beefyreefy]

Update: I decided that perhaps my problem with coral decline started when I added a second sump to my system. I skimped and added an off brand heavy duty plastic tub as the return section of my sump system. Because it was a slow process and I wasn’t testing for tin at the time, I didn’t make the connection that it might be the problem. I have replaced my entire sump system with a glass tank and am in the process of water change over. Will start sending out ICP tests to see if I fixed it. Incidentally, during the change over, I found a nail in my top off water container. It only had a very small amount of corrosion so I don’t think it’s been in there too long. Now I think I’ve covered all my bases and there shouldn’t be anything causing excessively high tin levels. If tin remains high, I will be truly baffled.

 

[Reefer4fun]

Update: I decided that perhaps my problem with coral decline started when I added a second sump to my system. I skimped and added an off brand heavy duty plastic tub as the return section of my sump system. Because it was a slow process and I wasn’t testing for tin at the time, I didn’t make the connection that it might be the problem. I have replaced my entire sump system with a glass tank and am in the process of water change over. Will start sending out ICP tests to see if I fixed it. Incidentally, during the change over, I found a nail in my top off water container. It only had a very small amount of corrosion so I don’t think it’s been in there too long. Now I think I’ve covered all my bases and there shouldn’t be anything causing excessively high tin levels. If tin remains high, I will be truly baffled.

Did you find the elevated tin root-cause?

 

[MnFish1]

I meant to ask if you're using activated carbon? - The fact that some corals are doing great and some are not may suggest 'chemical warfare' between the different species in your tank. That said, it's also possible that some corals are more susceptible to 'tin levels' than others.