Uv steriliser flow rates

[wagadodo]

Hi all, I’m looking for some advice on flow rates to battle dino’s in my 60L nano. I’m looking at getting a uv steriliser with a flow rate of 500L per hour. (It’s the smallest one I can find with a reputable brand)

I’ve been hearing that 1-3 times tank volume per hour is good at battling them.

so overall I want to be aiming for 180L per hour contact time? So my question is… will the steriliser still work effectively at a lower flow rate than what is recommended of 500L per hour.

Hopefully I’m making sense here!
Thanks

 

[saltytanked]

I always recommend 100g per hour

 

[Joe31415]

My understanding with UV sterilizers is that slower is better. It allows the water, and anything contained in it, to spend more time exposed to the UV.

 

[Doctorgori]

how are you measuring flow anyway?

 

[dangles]

What brand are you considering? Both AquaUltraviolet and Pentair have that info in their instructions.

Generally you want faster rate for smaller things that reproduce faster (single-cell nasties like dinos and bacteria) and slower rate for larger things that reproduce relatively slower (multi-cellular nasties like fish parasites). But it isn't an exact science, so be prepared for lots of opinions that don't agree

 

[PuertoReef]

I think if you run the flow slower than the max recommended level through the UV sterilizer, I don't think it could possibly make it less effective. The thing that eliminates the algae and/or protozoa is dwell time in the UV light that screws up their DNA. Therefore I think the flow rates are simply a matter of "maximum" rather than "minimum" -- meaning, I don't think it is possible to have "too slow" a flow rate in the UV. If I am wrong about that, I would love to understand the theory of action that would explain why the UV sterilizer flow rate could ever be "too slow" (other than just not treating enough of your tank water).

 

[BiggestE22]

My understanding with UV sterilizers is that slower is better. It allows the water, and anything contained in it, to spend more time exposed to the UV.

150-250 is good for Protozoa . 1200-1300 good for algae, bacteria and diatoms.

 

[BiggestE22]

I think if you run the flow slower than the max recommended level through the UV sterilizer, I don't think it could possibly make it less effective. The thing that eliminates the algae and/or protozoa is dwell time in the UV light that screws up their DNA. Therefore I think the flow rates are simply a matter of "maximum" rather than "minimum" -- meaning, I don't think it is possible to have "too slow" a flow rate in the UV. If I am wrong about that, I would love to understand the theory of action that would explain why the UV sterilizer flow rate could ever be "too slow" (other than just not treating enough of your tank water).

It’s more about reproduction rate of what you are trying to sterilize. Ich for instance takes about 10 days to reproduce. While bacteria reproduces exponentially every minute. Therefore you need a much higher rate to sterilize the bacteria and algae.

 

[BiggestE22]

BRS has good data in UVs. Most importantly just read the product instructions. Any quality UV will provide this. I’m talking about Pentar and the like. Not some junk like a Green Machine that you get from Petco.

 

[PuertoReef]

It’s more about reproduction rate of what you are trying to sterilize. Ich for instance takes about 10 days to reproduce. While bacteria reproduces exponentially every minute. Therefore you need a much higher rate to sterilize the bacteria and algae.

Thank you, am I understanding your explanation it's because algae and bacteria reproduce so quickly, you need to treat a massive amount of water to get ahead of them and make a real impact on their numbers, and therefore need the higher flow rate to treat a greater proportion of the water?

My 40 Watt Pentair UV has suggested flow rates of:

• Algae & Bacteria Water Flow Rate: Suggested: 943GPH Max: 1574GPH
• Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: Suggested: 157GPH Max: 262GPH

I have it in an adjoining closet to our tank and feed it from a manifold, which is a closed loop from the sump that returns to the display tank. Feeding it at 150-250 GPH is no problem, but to be able to hit the 943 GPH recommended for Algae, I would need to add an in-line pump off its branch of the manifold to get the flow rate up, or just massively upgrade the main pump feeding this manifold.

 

[dangles]

Thank you, am I understanding your explanation it's because algae and bacteria reproduce so quickly, you need to treat a massive amount of water to get ahead of them and make a real impact on their numbers, and therefore need the higher flow rate to treat a greater proportion of the water?

My 40 Watt Pentair UV has suggested flow rates of:

• Algae & Bacteria Water Flow Rate: Suggested: 943GPH Max: 1574GPH
• Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: Suggested: 157GPH Max: 262GPH

I have it in an adjoining closet to our tank and feed it from a manifold, which is a closed loop from the sump that returns to the display tank. Feeding it at 150-250 GPH is no problem, but to be able to hit the 943 GPH recommended for Algae, I would need to add an in-line pump off its branch of the manifold to get the flow rate up, or just massively upgrade the main pump feeding this manifold.

I have a similar setup/issue with mine. There’s just no way I can meet the flow rates for algae/bacteria without putting it on its own pump - ideally a true dedicated closed loop (bypassing the sump entirely). Not possible for me unfortunately so I’m restricted to treating for Protozoa. Which isn’t all bad I guess

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

how are you measuring flow anyway?

5 gallon bucket test is the only way, IMHO.

 

[EvolvedMonkey]

how are you measuring flow anyway?

I got this device for measuring flow rate..

It works perfectly!! 7.6 gpm always on my 90w lifegard for Ick management.

 

[BiggestE22]

Thank you, am I understanding your explanation it's because algae and bacteria reproduce so quickly, you need to treat a massive amount of water to get ahead of them and make a real impact on their numbers, and therefore need the higher flow rate to treat a greater proportion of the water?

My 40 Watt Pentair UV has suggested flow rates of:

• Algae & Bacteria Water Flow Rate: Suggested: 943GPH Max: 1574GPH
• Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: Suggested: 157GPH Max: 262GPH

I have it in an adjoining closet to our tank and feed it from a manifold, which is a closed loop from the sump that returns to the display tank. Feeding it at 150-250 GPH is no problem, but to be able to hit the 943 GPH recommended for Algae, I would need to add an in-line pump off its branch of the manifold to get the flow rate up, or just massively upgrade the main pump feeding this manifold.

I am doing it line Ryan in BRS. I have the exact same UV as you and will sit it vertically next to the tank and use PVC to run the return into the display.

 

[Doctorgori]

I got this device for measuring flow rate..

It works perfectly!! 7.6 gpm always on my 90w lifegard for Ick management.

please, please repost on how that’s working out ….again, Neptunes 1” flow sensors are boo boo

 

[dangles]

please, please repost on how that’s working out ….again, Neptunes 1” flow sensors are boo boo

Exactly. I haven’t pulled the trigger on the Neptune ones because they have about the worst reviews of any of the Neptune products except maybe the auto feeder.

I’m wondering how that Amazon one has held up with salt water. And if there’s a way to calibrate it.

 

[ca1ore]

It’s not just flow through the unit, but whether you are getting enough of your tank volume through the unit in a given hour. I’ve never had dino problems, so cannot say from experience. I’d say that if you run it at clarifying flow rates and that means 2-3x tank volume per hour then that’s probably a good start.

I run a bunch of the Neptune flow meters. The 1” models are susceptible to clogging/fouling, so you need to place them so that they can be easily removed for cleaning. If you keep them clean, they work fine.

 

[GARRIGA]

Chart says it all although from speaking to Pentair best double the 180,000 to 360,000. Overall water volume and wattage dictate flow rate. No one number solves it and pathogen different than bacteria because latter multiplies faster.

Best speak to them and get an exact wattage and flow rate. Otherwise filter through the opinions.

 

[EvolvedMonkey]

Exactly. I haven’t pulled the trigger on the Neptune ones because they have about the worst reviews of any of the Neptune products except maybe the auto feeder.

I’m wondering how that Amazon one has held up with salt water. And if there’s a way to calibrate it.

My auto feeder works great

Now the salinity probe, and finicky Trident on the other hand.

I'm also on my 4th Apex... Jeesum.

I'll put a post up about the pros and cons of that little flow meter I got, but for my purposes it works perfectly. It's held up to saltwater fine for a few months at least..