Two weeks into cycling tank

resuahknaf

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Hey everyone, I'm new to the hobby and currently two weeks into cycling my tank using Dr Tim's ammonia, one and only, and first defense. I did lots of research on how to use the products and made sure the water temperature was raised, salinity was lowered, no lights, no skimmer, no filter sock, no fish, but of course I have an API test kit which seemingly everyone says not to use. Everything seems to be moving along, pH has dropped, ammonia and nitrites spiked and dropped, and nitrates have spiked.

My concern is the pH and nitrates. Should I be waiting for ammonia and nitrites to drop before doing a water change to lower nitrates? Or should I wait it out a few more days (look into a different test kit as well) and retest and reevaluate? Trying not to react to a problem that very well could just be in the process of sorting itself out. I appreciate any advice as I'm not exactly sure what to do from here, thank you!
 
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Hey everyone, I'm new to the hobby and currently two weeks into cycling my tank using Dr Tim's ammonia, one and only, and first defense. I did lots of research on how to use the products and made sure the water temperature was raised, salinity was lowered, no lights, no skimmer, no filter sock, no fish, but of course I have an API test kit which seemingly everyone says not to use. Everything seems to be moving along, pH has dropped, ammonia and nitrites spiked and dropped, and nitrates have spiked.

My concern is the pH and nitrates. Should I be waiting for ammonia and nitrites to drop before doing a water change to lower nitrates? Or should I wait it out a few more days (look into a different test kit as well) and retest and reevaluate? Trying not to react to a problem that very well could just be in the process of sorting itself out. I appreciate any advice as I'm not exactly sure what to do from here, thank you!
Once ammonia is steady at zero for five days and Nitrate is at 20 or below for 5 days- You are cycled.
When you go to get initial fish, take a water sample with you IF they do not use Api kits and verify ammonia level. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
 

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I used Fritz’ turbo start 900 and added 2 clowns right away. Never really got an ammonia spike and the 3 pairs of fish are great 3 weeks later. Yes I keep testing and do have nitrates but never registered ammonia or nitrites.

The fish include (all pairs) angel Personifiers, blue throat triggers and the original clown fish pair.

I now swear by turbo start.
 
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I used API test kits for my aquarium during cycle and after, altough not as accurate as other brands, it's a great cheap way to test an empty aquriam. Once you start adding life after cycle is complete you could invest in more accurate kits at a steady pace, (i.e once a month) not much changes chemistry drastically as long as you don't overload with livestock. I started with just 2 clown fish and a gsp
 

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I used API test kits for my aquarium during cycle and after, altough not as accurate as other brands, it's a great cheap way to test an empty aquriam. Once you start adding life after cycle is complete you could invest in more accurate kits at a steady pace, (i.e once a month) not much changes chemistry drastically as long as you don't overload with livestock. I started with just 2 clown fish and a gsp
I have both API and Hanna digital testers. I’ve tested against each of them and rarely find any big discrepancy. I for one, find that API does a pretty good job.
 
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resuahknaf

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I used API test kits for my aquarium during cycle and after, altough not as accurate as other brands, it's a great cheap way to test an empty aquriam. Once you start adding life after cycle is complete you could invest in more accurate kits at a steady pace, (i.e once a month) not much changes chemistry drastically as long as you don't overload with livestock. I started with just 2 clown fish and a gsp
Thank you for the insight! Glad to hear someone not completely digging in over the test kit, the Facebook groups can get pretty harsh very quickly. Was there a specific brand testing kit that you found you like?
 
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Thank you for the insight! Glad to hear someone not completely digging in over the test kit, the Facebook groups can get pretty harsh very quickly. Was there a specific brand testing kit that you found you like?
I have salifert brand also, I've had my aquriam around 4 years now, I clean my aquriam and filters every 2-3weeks, some filters more often and deep clean every 2-3 months. I know alot of people will hate on it but I haven't tested my water for months, I might break out the API calcium test kit once a while but my snails constantly laying eggs, I still have bumble snails from 3 years ago lol

In regards to your aquarium, your still cycling or close to finishing cycle so keep testing as much as possible :)
Ensure all parameters are stable before adding any life, also please don't add cuc (clean up crew/crabs/snails) early on, as there will be no algae for them to eat... This will be available in abundance later down the line :)
 

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If ammonia and nitrites spiked and dropped, and you have a rise in nitrates, then the tank is cycled. Waiting longer isn’t going to gain you anything as you have what you need to slowly add more livestock.

Regarding API kits: the issue I have is their test kits don’t “read zero” well. This causes people to overreact, think something is wrong with their tank when it’s just an inaccurate test kit showing non-zero despite zero present. It’s stressing new hobbyists for no reason that I don’t like their kits.
 
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resuahknaf

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If ammonia and nitrites spiked and dropped, and you have a rise in nitrates, then the tank is cycled. Waiting longer isn’t going to gain you anything as you have what you need to slowly add more livestock.

Regarding API kits: the issue I have is their test kits don’t “read zero” well. This causes people to overreact, think something is wrong with their tank when it’s just an inaccurate test kit showing non-zero despite zero present. It’s stressing new hobbyists for no reason that I don’t like their kits.
I figured we were just getting on our way to cycled with every parameter except the pH. Everything according to the test I did two days ago is looking good, just the pH is still a little low. That's what I'm real curious about!
 
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I figured we were just getting on our way to cycled with every parameter except the pH. Everything according to the test I did two days ago is looking good, just the pH is still a little low. That's what I'm real curious about!
I used the API kits to start my tank too. They’re “good enough” for that purpose as long as you’re using a solid cycling method (which it sounds like you are). I didn’t use that kit to test pH though. I got the Neptune A3 Apex Jr which comes with a pH probe - far more accurate than the API pH testing method.

That being said, what is your kit showing for pH?
 
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resuahknaf

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I used the API kits to start my tank too. They’re “good enough” for that purpose as long as you’re using a solid cycling method (which it sounds like you are). I didn’t use that kit to test pH though. I got the Neptune A3 Apex Jr which comes with a pH probe - far more accurate than the API pH testing method.

That being said, what is your kit showing for pH?
It's sitting at about 8 right now and has been for a week and a half or so
 
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resuahknaf

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I’m also interested in the actual value. Sounds to me like it’s time for a water change and go forth.
It's been sitting around 8 which is why I was considering the water change, but didn't want to do it too soon since everything else seemed as if it was still performing it's balancing act
 

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It's been sitting around 8 which is why I was considering the water change, but didn't want to do it too soon since everything else seemed as if it was still performing it's balancing act
That’s pretty normal.

For fish you’re good. For corals you are going to want to wait a bit anyway for the system to mature and stabilize, but over the next couple months don’t be surprised if it goes down to ~7.8ish and then recovers back up to around 8 or so as the system balances out.

Note that pH can also be affected by things like CO2 in the air in the room you have the tank in
 
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resuahknaf

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Thats exactly what I wanted to know, thank you! I'm undetermined if I want corals or not, but know this is a process and to let time do its thing. Everytime I look into pH it's either add something or leave it alone, and I don't know better at this point.
 
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It's been sitting around 8 which is why I was considering the water change, but didn't want to do it too soon since everything else seemed as if it was still performing it's balancing act
I'd LOVE to be at around 8 lol. I'm barely hitting 7.8 most of the time. I haven't added corals yet, but I'm going to need to start dosing 2-part or something to bump up my pH to a better number before I start adding them. BRS has a nice reference guide for tank parameters that I printed out and put with all my testing stuff...

 
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resuahknaf

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I'd LOVE to be at around 8 lol. I'm barely hitting 7.8 most of the time. I haven't added corals yet, but I'm going to need to start dosing 2-part or something to bump up my pH to a better number before I start adding them. BRS has a nice reference guide for tank parameters that I printed out and put with all my testing stuff...

Oh thank you for the link! I've been looking around a little on BRS but didn't stumble upon this yet
 

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I'd LOVE to be at around 8 lol. I'm barely hitting 7.8 most of the time. I haven't added corals yet, but I'm going to need to start dosing 2-part or something to bump up my pH to a better number before I start adding them. BRS has a nice reference guide for tank parameters that I printed out and put with all my testing stuff...

How old is your tank?
 
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How old is your tank?
I set it all up in November, but because of life couldn't start my cycle until January. The dKH had been really low but it's been slowly getting back to where it's supposed to be with the salt I'm using, plus I did a couple of doses of sodium bicarb to boost it. The people I've asked about it are pretty sure CO2 is to blame. Long story for another thread :D
 

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Are you using rodi water, store brought/ready mixed or tap water, people have successfully managed aquariums with all, just curious for what your ideal PH would be, also what your looking into stocking with :)
 

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