Thinking of converting FW Uniquarium 180 to FOWLR...suggestion please

[YoubetyourWrasse]

I have a Clear for Life Uniquarium 180g (150 footprint) that I have been using for FW for several years. I used to keep both nano and up to 75g reefs in the past (drilled, plumbed, built myself), but have been away from SW a good decade or more...In FW I do 50% wc's every 2.5 days or so; however, if I do a FOWLR I am not keen on doing an abundance of WC's because I do not have access to large resevoirs or a RO filter in my apartment .

With that in mind, RIO went out of business which made the pumps for the venturi skimmer casings...that are used for these Uniquariums. I would have to go with some other venturi skimmer that could fit in each of the overlow chamber (which will be hard because the acrylic frame top makes it more narrow than 4inches wide at top...closer to 3.5 inch opening). Is there even such product that will fit lol. The chamber where the skimmers could go on either side are roughly 4 x 11in. This presents the first problem with the Uniquarium.

I am thinking the only place to place an ATO is the middle return chamber with the two return pumps. I would basically just place a small 10-20g RO resevoir in the stand with something basic rather than a litermeter spectrapure like I did in the past.

The second issue with the uniquairum is d/t the built in wet/dry sump, you can't drill these things and setup up a propper sump without making life extremely difficult and/or overcomplicated. Drilling this thing and adding a second external sump creates a battle with water levels d/t the built in sump and it kind of defeats the purpose for what I would want to do at this point. I would want to keep it simple as possible. I can't really build a refugium in the back with a light because it will simply clog the foam blocks and impede water flow over the drip trays toward the middle of the built in wet/dry sump. I just don't see how they build these things with SW in mind. Hence, why I have always used it for FW.

Please give me suggestions for a mostly a carnivore stocking in case I try to do some macro algae for some nutrient export. Maybe a smaller trigger DF puffer etc. and what else that could work.

So in summary, is this even feasible for the most part? Can it be done without an obscene amount of WC's. WC's in FW aren't a big deal d/t a python. SW without an RO filter and/or Resevoirs is a different story though. I mean one good thing could be that I live a mile away from a LFS with RO and Catalina water.

Any thoughts would be welcome on stocking and suggestions...btw first post

 

[Subsea]

Without getting into your sump design, start with reverse flow under gravel filter using 2” aroggonite substrate.

 

[Subsea]

I have a Clear for Life Uniquarium 180g (150 footprint) that I have been using for FW for several years. I used to keep both nano and up to 75g reefs in the past (drilled, plumbed, built myself), but have been away from SW a good decade or more...In FW I do 50% wc's every 2.5 days or so; however, if I do a FOWLR I am not keen on doing an abundance of WC's because I do not have access to large resevoirs or a RO filter in my apartment .

With that in mind, RIO went out of business which made the pumps for the venturi skimmer casings...that are used for these Uniquariums. I would have to go with some other venturi skimmer that could fit in each of the overlow chamber (which will be hard because the acrylic frame top makes it more narrow than 4inches wide at top...closer to 3.5 inch opening). Is there even such product that will fit lol. The chamber where the skimmers could go on either side are roughly 4 x 11in. This presents the first problem with the Uniquarium.

I am thinking the only place to place an ATO is the middle return chamber with the two return pumps. I would basically just place a small 10-20g RO resevoir in the stand with something basic rather than a litermeter spectrapure like I did in the past.

The second issue with the uniquairum is d/t the built in wet/dry sump, you can't drill these things and setup up a propper sump without making life extremely difficult and/or overcomplicated. Drilling this thing and adding a second external sump creates a battle with water levels d/t the built in sump and it kind of defeats the purpose for what I would want to do at this point. I would want to keep it simple as possible. I can't really build a refugium in the back with a light because it will simply clog the foam blocks and impede water flow over the drip trays toward the middle of the built in wet/dry sump. I just don't see how they build these things with SW in mind. Hence, why I have always used it for FW.

Please give me suggestions for a mostly a carnivore stocking in case I try to do some macro algae for some nutrient export. Maybe a smaller trigger DF puffer etc. and what else that could work.

So in summary, is this even feasible for the most part? Can it be done without an obscene amount of WC's. WC's in FW aren't a big deal d/t a python. SW without an RO filter and/or Resevoirs is a different story though. I mean one good thing could be that I live a mile away from a LFS with RO and Catalina water.

Any thoughts would be welcome on stocking and suggestions...btw first post

Welcome to the addiction, I have been hooked for 51 years.

The tank in my signature is set up for 25 years. I bought it used with a macro mud refugium. The first chamber is wet/dry, the second and largest chamber is the macro algae refugium with miracle mud on bottom. The last chamber with bubble trap has return pump. I have been skimmerless for 40 years. After 20 years, five years ago, I turned out the light and composted tomatoes with Chaetomorphy and turned mud/macro refugium into “cryptic refugium with mud filter”. In 20 years, mud depth depth had increased 0.5” and felt spongy to the touch. With a total depth of 1” of MULM, I stacked eggcrate and put live rock above mud line.

In display tank, I ran a Jaubert Plenum with 6” dsb for twenty years and 5 years ago removed all but 2” of arogonite substrate and plumbed in pump to reverse flow up thru the substrate.

 

[exnisstech]

Only thing I can suggest is look into a portable rodi unit. Trusting someone else to mix my water isn't something I can do. Too many uncontrolled variables to risk it IMO

 

[YoubetyourWrasse]

I was thinking I have probably enough bio balls on each side to fill a couple of 10gallon tubs. Bio balls are not too ideal but don't really want to put rubble in the back either. I thought about taking out 3 inches or so on each side to place the chemi media be it chemi-pure, rox, gfo, or phosphate pads under some polishing pads...so the drip trays still have some rooom to trickle down. I think the octo bh1000 hob skimmer will be able to hang on the back of each side of the overflow so maybe there will be some export available.

What is the least amount of LR that I can get away with?

With the 4inch wet/dry sump incorportating the back of the tank, it will mostl likely hold no more than 165g of water minus the scape/structure. I want to go with a lighter stocking maybe DF puffer, an Angel of somesort, (wanted a harlequin tusk but believe they get way too big), maybe a variety of damsels (my experience with them from reefs are that they are way too aggressive though), suggestions for other tank mates or a good mix for tank size would be welcome keeping a lighter stocking. I have access to a wide variety here near the ocean in LA.

Also which ATO should I use? I am just gonna keep a 20g resevoir under the tank instead of using a peristaltic pump in another room.

 

[YoubetyourWrasse]

Well, l started this whole thing. Will probably get the skimmers in a month or so. I have about 105 pounds of cured Fiji, many liters of bio-balls in back, 40lbs of live sand and 40lbs of dry aragonite, and threw in some Dr. Tim's bottled bac for the heck of it. I have a Tunze 3155 ATO coming tomorrow. SG is 1.026...probably would like it stabilizing in the 1024-25 range. I used Catalina water here in Socal. I have limited space to mix salt and I assume Catalina will be fine for a FOWLR.

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

Maybe you can take a picture of the rear chamber to see how much room there is to work with?

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

Without getting into your sump design, start with reverse flow under gravel filter using 2” aroggonite substrate.

Too funny my first FO tank back in the 80's had this type of filtration plus dual Eheim.

 

[YoubetyourWrasse]

So it has been cycled now. I did the LS+LR+BB method. My lone inhabitant is a 2inch Tomato who was my little soldier; however, I never saw my levels hit a dangerous phase (still frowned upon I know).

I am posting pics of the back. The tank is nearly 6 inches from the wall. The first chamber has 2 x black coarse block sponges that will most likely need to be removed if I put a Octo classic 90 on each side. Next chamber has the drip tray on each side that as you can see is simply filled with bio balls. If the sponge blocks are removed I will need to place some sort of mech filtration over the bio balls, so I have left 2-3 inches of space under the trays.

I am wondering what kind of pads I should put over the balls. I guess down the road I would add maybe chemi-pure blue, pure-it, rox or something similar if needed.

I am worried if the flow is too obstructed, the middle chamber with the two Sicce 3.0's will drop and my Tunze 3155 will continually flood the system. (20gal res)

What kind of mech I should place over the bio-balls with the two octo classic 90's on each side?

I don't need crazy polishing, but I don't want the bio-balls filling with detritis either. As a freshwater heavily stocked setup, I rinsed them around every 5 months and barely had any detritis.

I also thought of adding 1 x mp40 to just keep the rocks fairly clean of detritus. I don't want absurd flow d/t not having corals....plus I don't wan to fill the back of my tank with aragonite.

I was thinking about using Dr. Tim's waste/refresh or vibrant to fight ugly phase coming up; however, using up the available silica naturally is most likely a more sound plan

I am torn between having a mostly predator or carnivore setup and have macro in the tank vs. a tank that included Scopas, & appropriate Tangs or Angels. I guess I was thinking that in tank macro might assist in some export; however, contraindicate fish such as Scopas etc could help with nuissance algae. I am not sure which way to go there. After 30 days, and following disease guidelines/preps at what rate should I stock...2 at a time? I think ending with maybe 6-7 fish is the end goal.

Any stocking suggestions or ideas?

 

[YoubetyourWrasse]

It is coming together....guess it is sort of a 'pseudo' build thread at this point. So I have around 3.5-4inches under the drip trays. I putting chemi-pure blue over the bio balls...I wish I new what ion exchange resin was and I would make my own out of purigen/rox carbon/X & mistery resin. I am using egg crate over the bio balls/chemi pure blue, and then placing a polishing pad on top of it.

I took out the foam block sponges in the first chamber/overflow to make room for the Octo 90 classic hob. I have one running at this time, but intend to put one on each overflow so I can at leat have adequate skimming on the tank. The skimmer has been running for 12 hours and seems to be pulling out gunk on full dry.

I am getting an mp-40 delivered in a few days which will be my sole wavemaker in the tank. I will have to place it on one side...with the purpose of simply keeping the detritis on the rocks, bed, and column a little more stirred for better export from the skimmers.

Questions

Do you think I should use batting/floss under the drip trays instead of polishing pads?
My thoughts are with batting/floss I would think there is less chance of ATO overflow into return chamber because floss will be less restrictive. I have a 20g resevoir which could potentially overflow if flow through the mech was stopped.

What Vortech setting should I use or would be best for my single MP40 in this FOWLR?
I don't really need absurd flow in this tank not being a reef that is why I am only going with the vortech (plus didnt want wires in the tan)...it is mainly used to assist with tank health.

 

[YoubetyourWrasse]

On board

 

[YoubetyourWrasse]

So not much of a FOWLR anymore...I succumbed to my reefing demise again after I swore it off. Swapped for some reef safe fish since I am going in the opposite direction now. Still have quite a ways to go. Probably will add more zoa/paly, but slowing down on everything else and going to let it mature. As you can see the stock has changed considerably.