The Miracle Tank

Which tang?


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brett_schn

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Those things were horrible about killing turbos. I had a co-worker who didn’t haul crap and only had a truck for where he lived way off the road and it ate 2 sets of them. One set killed the engine. Was all under warranty luckily, but still.
We tow all the time with our 3.5. Anywhere from 6-14k lbs. never hiccups. 90k miles on it now with probably 40k of those towing and not a single problem.
 

brett_schn

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@brett_schn

Ohh, and I built him a custom sub box. Managed to get 2x 12” subs behind the seat of a regular cab. Took a lb of poly fill per sub to simulate a large enough airspace for the subs to perform the best. There is even a recess for the amp and it allows the center console to still be moved up and down. Been 20 or so years since I built a speaker box lol.

C39F9ABE-1E09-4E1A-806A-C65564F57ADF.jpeg
That’s the single cab f150?

I would kill to find a 2005-2007 f250 4x4 single cab with the zf5 or zf6 in it. I would build the hell out of that. Interior swap maybe and do all kinds of performance work. I want to do that kinda work to my truck it’s just not worth the investment.
 

Eagle_Steve

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We tow all the time with our 3.5. Anywhere from 6-14k lbs. never hiccups. 90k miles on it now with probably 40k of those towing and not a single problem.
I know they got the issues worked out quickly in the trucks. Those first ones were crazy unreliable. Biggest thing was the pcv system and eating the oil. When oil got low, it killed the turbos. Typical of all new things though. Never buy the first year of something new lol. The dealers also fixed things if a truck came in for service and it had an open tsb for the pcv. Amazing what a small valve, a few hoses and a reprogram can do for reliability lol.
 

Eagle_Steve

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Here is a good laugh.

That red Volvo I posted a pic of has a 70 trim, 1200cc injectors and hits 28 lbs lol. 6mpg average, 12 if I a baby it lol. Megasquirt runs the car and is fun to tune.

Ignore the mess. This was right after getting it back together. It now has a wire tuck and all is cleaned up lol.

1C1E0BEC-58B5-4A39-8655-C4C5A4A66A09.jpeg
 

JoshH

Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
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We tow all the time with our 3.5. Anywhere from 6-14k lbs. never hiccups. 90k miles on it now with probably 40k of those towing and not a single problem.

Well, 140,000ish km Two turbos, $3000 CAD a pop, that’s my experience with them. Would never buy one, ever again.
 

fishguy242

Cronies..... INSERT BUILD THREAD BADGE HERE !!
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good morning all..:)
 

Eagle_Steve

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@Eagle_Steve I want a fun manual truck. Any recommendation?
For a Ford.
Old square body f150 4x4 with a 4.9 straight six. Pull engine, throw in all forged internals, build turbo manifold for a single or twins (twins for maximum low end, single for top end), port head, turbo cam and a good tune. Some of the best off road fun you can have.

For a GM
K5 blazer or same body style short bed truck. Make sure it is a 350 truck. 4 bolt main preferably. The list is endless.

For a dodge
Anything with a manual, 4x4 and a 12 valve. Again, endless list.

For a Nissan
Any d21 or wd21. I am partial to these as I love my pathy. Not the most powerful, but parts are super cheap and they go anywhere. Even without a straight axle swap.

For a Toyota
Any old 22r truck/4Runner or a newer (not super new) Tacoma/4Runner. Again cheap parts and endless list.

Jeep
Avoid new wranglers. Too many issues with front bushings. Great if you don’t care to upgrade the whole front end right off the bat. I prefer older Cherokee’s with a 4.0 that still runs. Easy to rebuild, parts are cheap, straight axle from the factory and doesn’t take much to fit 35” plus tires. Auto or manual trans is fine. The autos can be built to be bullet proof for cheap.

Really all depends on what you want to do though. All of the above is off road oriented, but still street drivable. If you want go fast truck, that’s a whole different list lol.
 

brett_schn

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For a Ford.
Old square body f150 4x4 with a 4.9 straight six. Pull engine, throw in all forged internals, build turbo manifold for a single or twins (twins for maximum low end, single for top end), port head, turbo cam and a good tune. Some of the best off road fun you can have.

For a GM
K5 blazer or same body style short bed truck. Make sure it is a 350 truck. 4 bolt main preferably. The list is endless.

For a dodge
Anything with a manual, 4x4 and a 12 valve. Again, endless list.

For a Nissan
Any d21 or wd21. I am partial to these as I love my pathy. Not the most powerful, but parts are super cheap and they go anywhere. Even without a straight axle swap.

For a Toyota
Any old 22r truck/4Runner or a newer (not super new) Tacoma/4Runner. Again cheap parts and endless list.

Jeep
Avoid new wranglers. Too many issues with front bushings. Great if you don’t care to upgrade the whole front end right off the bat. I prefer older Cherokee’s with a 4.0 that still runs. Easy to rebuild, parts are cheap, straight axle from the factory and doesn’t take much to fit 35” plus tires. Auto or manual trans is fine. The autos can be built to be bullet proof for cheap.

Really all depends on what you want to do though. All of the above is off road oriented, but still street drivable. If you want go fast truck, that’s a whole different list lol.
lol! I wanna go fast and off-road ;). But not too fast I’ll kill myself lol!
that 4.9 I here is a slow engine? Do I bore then engine or just new internals? Also how’s that manual trans. Are they any good?
I really do like the squarebodys from Ford they are simple and clean. My favorite are 78-79 dentside square headlights or the 80-86 or the 92-96
 

Eagle_Steve

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lol! I wanna go fast and off-road ;). But not too fast I’ll kill myself lol!
that 4.9 I here is a slow engine? Do I bore then engine or just new internals? Also how’s that manual trans. Are they any good?
I really do like the squarebodys from Ford they are simple and clean. My favorite are 78-79 dentside square headlights or the 80-86 or the 92-96
4.9 boosted just needs internals. No need to bore and not boring leaves the cylinder walls good and thick. They only need a good hone and checked to make sure they are still round. The transmissions are tough also. My father in laws truck is over 500k 4.9 and the only issue he had had is a new clutch in that time, trans output shaft seal at 400k (would leak into t-case), and had a bad run of slave cylinders when using aftermarket. (Slave cylinder is inside the bell housing) Went to a Ford slave cylinder and no issue since. Of course there has been normal stuff, o2 sensor replaced, egr replaced, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, but to me those are all wear items. The one item I consider wear that he doesn’t, is the exhaust manifold. At about 220k it cracked and started leaking. He threw a fit lol. To me, that is part of it. The amount of heat cycles it sees, it has to crack sometime. Especially being as it vibrates with the engine, has weight hanging off of it, etc. We put a pace setter header on it and it doesn’t leak to this day after that. Looks like crap and is rusted, but no leaks lol.

The trick to a 4.9 is finding one that has been taken care of or low miles. The head gasket issues are due to lack of coolant changes. The coolant becomes very corrosive and eats at the gasket. The exhaust manifold will more than likely need to be replaced.

His truck is slow being as it is a 4x4. Even the 4x2s aren’t fast. Nasty for 30’ lol, but the 4.9 is a torque monster. Not meant to be fast. Meant to pull a house down, and it has pulled a many of large trees down and around the farm.
 

brett_schn

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4.9 boosted just needs internals. No need to bore and not boring leaves the cylinder walls good and thick. They only need a good hone and checked to make sure they are still round. The transmissions are tough also. My father in laws truck is over 500k 4.9 and the only issue he had had is a new clutch in that time, trans output shaft seal at 400k (would leak into t-case), and had a bad run of slave cylinders when using aftermarket. (Slave cylinder is inside the bell housing) Went to a Ford slave cylinder and no issue since. Of course there has been normal stuff, o2 sensor replaced, egr replaced, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, but to me those are all wear items. The one item I consider wear that he doesn’t, is the exhaust manifold. At about 220k it cracked and started leaking. He threw a fit lol. To me, that is part of it. The amount of heat cycles it sees, it has to crack sometime. Especially being as it vibrates with the engine, has weight hanging off of it, etc. We put a pace setter header on it and it doesn’t leak to this day after that. Looks like crap and is rusted, but no leaks lol.

The trick to a 4.9 is finding one that has been taken care of or low miles. The head gasket issues are due to lack of coolant changes. The coolant becomes very corrosive and eats at the gasket. The exhaust manifold will more than likely need to be replaced.

His truck is slow being as it is a 4x4. Even the 4x2s aren’t fast. Nasty for 30’ lol, but the 4.9 is a torque monster. Not meant to be fast. Meant to pull a house down, and it has pulled a many of large trees down and around the farm.
I need something that will allow me to merge onto I-95 or turn onto the main road here without getting rear ended because of how fast people drive here lol
 

HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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