Tanks of Death: Unable to Maintain Mantis Shrimp or Damselfish in Large Saltwater Tank System

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Hello Everyone,

tl;dr - Mantis shrimp are not living for more than 6 months. Need advice.

I am involved with the maintenance and upkeep of an aquarium system in a facility that deals with mantis shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus). The system had successfully kept and maintained mantis for 8 or 9 years before it was moved to another facility (mine) in 2022. While I was not the one primarily in charge of the tanks when they arrived, I have participated in conversations regarding their maintenance. If you weren't able to tell from the title, it hasn't been going so well. Recently, I have stepped up to try to figure out some of the issues regarding the tanks in hopes to keep our specimens healthy and alive for an extended period of time. Any help or input is appreciated.


A brief history of the tanks and our mantis:

The tanks were set up by a trusted professional in mid-late 2022. We have 6 ~30 gallon acrylic tanks that are mounted onto 10-foot vertical racks facing a hallway window. There is a 2 pump system and a sump for each pump. One pump maintains cold intertidal conditions (~65° F) and the other maintains tropical reef-like conditions (~78° F). Both pumps cycle the same saltwater that is made weekly in a separate 50 gallon bucket, with salinity set to around 32-34 ppt before being added. When the tanks were first built, they were filled with living sand and decorated with coral that was sourced from tanks that had previously (and successfully) held mantis. There are also UV LEDs above each tank that we initially had on a 8/16 hour on/off timer. It should be noted now that the water is constantly tested for appropriate conditions every 1-2 days; more details about this later. With this setup, we were able to maintain 6 mantis for approximately 6 months with little to no problem.

During this period, we fed the mantis clams and frozen krill from local supermarkets. Around 3 months in, we began to notice that green/brownish algae began would grow on the walls of the tank when the UV lights were on. To clean them, we would scrape off the growth from the walls and let them drain into the skimmers and pumps that would filter the gunk from there. However, the rate of growth increased. To counteract this, we kept the UV lights off instead of running them on a timer. After some time, the mantis began to lose their appetite and we lost our first one shortly after. Over the next couple of weeks, we had lost all 6 of our mantis.

We cleaned out the tanks as much as we could before we got the next batch. These mantis lasted a decent while -- until April 2023 -- before disaster struck. We had an auto refill system for our sea water at the time that was hooked up to the building's DI water supply. Without any prior notice, the building ran hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) through the system in order to clean the pipes. All of our mantis died again over the course of the next month. We again cleaned up the tanks, cycled the water, and introduced more mantis, but those also didn't last longer than 3 months.

We took the opportunity to reset the tanks and update our pump system. We assumed that the H2O2 had killed the bacteria present in the live sand so we removed about 50% of it and replaced it with a new batch of live sand. Along with this, we upgraded the pumps for the tanks because the flow for our top most tanks were low. Wavemakers were also added to simulate more sea-like conditions and to keep the tanks cleaner. The sump was updated with better protein skimmers and biofilters were added to the sump. Multiple (I think 3 or 4) water changes were done over the course of 2 weeks in order to purge the system before we started redosing and preparing the final water for the next batch of mantis. Those mantis arrived around December of 2023 and the last one from that batch passed 2 weeks ago.

We just got 4 more mantis this week after doing the normal cleaning and cycling of water. With this batch of mantis, we've switched to feeding them frozen blocks of squid from an aquarium store instead of the supermarket krill. Additionally, we also introduced 3 Damselfish into the system as suggested by the owner of said store. These are kept separate from the mantis but in the same tanks in order to act as a control for our water; they are our "canary in a coalmine." The first damsel died 2 days after being introduced to the tank. Could be chalked up to failed acclimation as the other 2 are still alive, but we'll keep monitoring.


Water Chemistry
Now, one of things we've prioritized since the beginning is maintaining the correct water chemistry in the tanks. In this regard, we have many many tests to check the pH, KH, GH, Nitrites, Nitrates, Mg, salinity, etc. of the tanks. These are either API 5-in-1 tests, Saysummer 7-in-1 tests, and individual tests from API and Salifert. On average, our tests have had the following results:

pH: 7.7-8 | KH: 50-70 ppm (API/Saysummer)/9-10.5 dKH (Salifert) | GH: 150-180 ppm | NO2: 0 | NO3: 0-40 (varies on water change)

These are the things we monitor on the day by day. The water is changed every week, if not, every other week to maintain these values. We prepare 50 gallons of water with Red Sea Coral Pro salt and bring the salinity up to 30-32 for each change. The sumps are also filled regularly to ensure the pumps don't run dry.


Potential Problems
Now, we've consulted multiple people about the possible causes of the relatively frequent doom of our mantis, but nothing that has been suggested has kept them alive for more than a couple months. These were our problems and suggested solutions (that I remember at the moment):

Fast Algae Growth - Turned off the UV lights

High NO3 - We upped the frequency of our water changes to every week, if not every 2 weeks

Possible Shell Rot - confirmed that none of the mantis had this

High Stress due to Light - One of the things that we've read most recently on these forms and online is that mantis are sensitive to light which heightens their stress. The tanks they are in have face a window that opens into a hallway with motion activated light. Throughout the day, the hallway lights are relatively sporadic due to the traffic which led us to believe that the mantis have been restless. In addition, there was a monitor for another instrument that would be fairly bright at night. To alleviate this, we've temporarily put cardboard on the side with the window and covered the monitor when not in use.

High Stress due to Territorialism - Our current setup has one large, horizontal tank divided into 3 sections with dividers. The territorial nature of the shrimp may make it hard for them to cohabitate a single tank, even with the dividers we currently have set up. The fact that multiple shrimp live in (very) close proximity to each other may be stressing them out much more than they can handle. With the most recent batch, we have left the middle sections of the tank empty to prevent them from being in directly adjacent sections. This is the spot where we put the damsel in.


Right now, this is all I can think of writing but may update this post as details arise in my mind. I've been asked to not include any pictures of the facilities unfortunately but any comments or questions are welcome. I will try to be as descriptive and responsive as I can.

Thank you everyone in advance for your help and I look forward to the discussions.
 

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Invertebrates are quite sensitive to metal impurities, especially copper. You mentioned having an in-house water supply. Could it be running through copper pipes? Your other hypotheses regarding algae and high nitrates are not going to kill shrimp. I’m not sure about lights either. I would suggest sending a water sample for ICP-MS analysis to check for contaminants. It sounds like you might be at a university, so maybe there is a chemistry lab around that could help you with that. Otherwise, I use Oceamo labs in Austria. Reef Moonshiners facilitates the transfer from US: Reef Moonshiners E-Store
 

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Any cleaning products or air freshners being used in the room?
 

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Jay Hemdal

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Hello Everyone,

tl;dr - Mantis shrimp are not living for more than 6 months. Need advice.

I am involved with the maintenance and upkeep of an aquarium system in a facility that deals with mantis shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus). The system had successfully kept and maintained mantis for 8 or 9 years before it was moved to another facility (mine) in 2022. While I was not the one primarily in charge of the tanks when they arrived, I have participated in conversations regarding their maintenance. If you weren't able to tell from the title, it hasn't been going so well. Recently, I have stepped up to try to figure out some of the issues regarding the tanks in hopes to keep our specimens healthy and alive for an extended period of time. Any help or input is appreciated.


A brief history of the tanks and our mantis:
The tanks were set up by a trusted professional in mid-late 2022. We have 6 ~30 gallon acrylic tanks that are mounted onto 10-foot vertical racks facing a hallway window. There is a 2 pump system and a sump for each pump. One pump maintains cold intertidal conditions (~65° F) and the other maintains tropical reef-like conditions (~78° F). Both pumps cycle the same saltwater that is made weekly in a separate 50 gallon bucket, with salinity set to around 32-34 ppt before being added. When the tanks were first built, they were filled with living sand and decorated with coral that was sourced from tanks that had previously (and successfully) held mantis. There are also UV LEDs above each tank that we initially had on a 8/16 hour on/off timer. It should be noted now that the water is constantly tested for appropriate conditions every 1-2 days; more details about this later. With this setup, we were able to maintain 6 mantis for approximately 6 months with little to no problem.

During this period, we fed the mantis clams and frozen krill from local supermarkets. Around 3 months in, we began to notice that green/brownish algae began would grow on the walls of the tank when the UV lights were on. To clean them, we would scrape off the growth from the walls and let them drain into the skimmers and pumps that would filter the gunk from there. However, the rate of growth increased. To counteract this, we kept the UV lights off instead of running them on a timer. After some time, the mantis began to lose their appetite and we lost our first one shortly after. Over the next couple of weeks, we had lost all 6 of our mantis.

We cleaned out the tanks as much as we could before we got the next batch. These mantis lasted a decent while -- until April 2023 -- before disaster struck. We had an auto refill system for our sea water at the time that was hooked up to the building's DI water supply. Without any prior notice, the building ran hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) through the system in order to clean the pipes. All of our mantis died again over the course of the next month. We again cleaned up the tanks, cycled the water, and introduced more mantis, but those also didn't last longer than 3 months.

We took the opportunity to reset the tanks and update our pump system. We assumed that the H2O2 had killed the bacteria present in the live sand so we removed about 50% of it and replaced it with a new batch of live sand. Along with this, we upgraded the pumps for the tanks because the flow for our top most tanks were low. Wavemakers were also added to simulate more sea-like conditions and to keep the tanks cleaner. The sump was updated with better protein skimmers and biofilters were added to the sump. Multiple (I think 3 or 4) water changes were done over the course of 2 weeks in order to purge the system before we started redosing and preparing the final water for the next batch of mantis. Those mantis arrived around December of 2023 and the last one from that batch passed 2 weeks ago.

We just got 4 more mantis this week after doing the normal cleaning and cycling of water. With this batch of mantis, we've switched to feeding them frozen blocks of squid from an aquarium store instead of the supermarket krill. Additionally, we also introduced 3 Damselfish into the system as suggested by the owner of said store. These are kept separate from the mantis but in the same tanks in order to act as a control for our water; they are our "canary in a coalmine." The first damsel died 2 days after being introduced to the tank. Could be chalked up to failed acclimation as the other 2 are still alive, but we'll keep monitoring.


Water Chemistry
Now, one of things we've prioritized since the beginning is maintaining the correct water chemistry in the tanks. In this regard, we have many many tests to check the pH, KH, GH, Nitrites, Nitrates, Mg, salinity, etc. of the tanks. These are either API 5-in-1 tests, Saysummer 7-in-1 tests, and individual tests from API and Salifert. On average, our tests have had the following results:

pH: 7.7-8 | KH: 50-70 ppm (API/Saysummer)/9-10.5 dKH (Salifert) | GH: 150-180 ppm | NO2: 0 | NO3: 0-40 (varies on water change)

These are the things we monitor on the day by day. The water is changed every week, if not, every other week to maintain these values. We prepare 50 gallons of water with Red Sea Coral Pro salt and bring the salinity up to 30-32 for each change. The sumps are also filled regularly to ensure the pumps don't run dry.


Potential Problems
Now, we've consulted multiple people about the possible causes of the relatively frequent doom of our mantis, but nothing that has been suggested has kept them alive for more than a couple months. These were our problems and suggested solutions (that I remember at the moment):

Fast Algae Growth - Turned off the UV lights

High NO3 - We upped the frequency of our water changes to every week, if not every 2 weeks

Possible Shell Rot - confirmed that none of the mantis had this

High Stress due to Light - One of the things that we've read most recently on these forms and online is that mantis are sensitive to light which heightens their stress. The tanks they are in have face a window that opens into a hallway with motion activated light. Throughout the day, the hallway lights are relatively sporadic due to the traffic which led us to believe that the mantis have been restless. In addition, there was a monitor for another instrument that would be fairly bright at night. To alleviate this, we've temporarily put cardboard on the side with the window and covered the monitor when not in use.

High Stress due to Territorialism - Our current setup has one large, horizontal tank divided into 3 sections with dividers. The territorial nature of the shrimp may make it hard for them to cohabitate a single tank, even with the dividers we currently have set up. The fact that multiple shrimp live in (very) close proximity to each other may be stressing them out much more than they can handle. With the most recent batch, we have left the middle sections of the tank empty to prevent them from being in directly adjacent sections. This is the spot where we put the damsel in.


Right now, this is all I can think of writing but may update this post as details arise in my mind. I've been asked to not include any pictures of the facilities unfortunately but any comments or questions are welcome. I will try to be as descriptive and responsive as I can.

Thank you everyone in advance for your help and I look forward to the discussions.
Lots of detail in your post, but much of it could be “red herrings”. The one damsel dying for example - if you didn’t quarantine them, the damsels aren’t good controls because they could die from disease. I would consider using peppermint shrimp as your control.

You should send water out for ICP analysis, that will show heavy metal issues. ICP works best in comparison though, having one test before a problem and then one after a problem starts can better pinpoint issues.

Shrimp are highly sensitive to H2O2, there may be residual amounts of that, or the building could be adding small amounts and not telling you? There used to be a low dose peroxide test on Amazon, the company name is waterworks.

Finally, check the water’s pH before the lights come on in the morning and then again late in the afternoon. If you see a large rise, there may be an aeration issue and at night, when the algae is in reverse phase, the dissolved oxygen may be dropping too low.

Jay
 
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SushiShef

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Lots of detail in your post, but much of it could be “red herrings”. The one damsel dying for example - if you didn’t quarantine them, the damsels aren’t good controls because they could die from disease. I would consider using peppermint shrimp as your control.

You should send water out for ICP analysis, that will show heavy metal issues. ICP works best in comparison though, having one test before a problem and then one after a problem starts can better pinpoint issues.

Shrimp are highly sensitive to H2O2, there may be residual amounts of that, or the building could be adding small amounts and not telling you? There used to be a low dose peroxide test on Amazon, the company name is waterworks.

Finally, check the water’s pH before the lights come on in the morning and then again late in the afternoon. If you see a large rise, there may be an aeration issue and at night, when the algae is in reverse phase, the dissolved oxygen may be dropping too low.

Jay
Thank you Jay and @Formulator for the input.

We actually have test strips for H2O2 and they've come up negative ever since the initial event.
We are going to get a ICP analysis done early next week and follow up then! Thank you for the suggestion.
 
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Lots of detail in your post, but much of it could be “red herrings”. The one damsel dying for example - if you didn’t quarantine them, the damsels aren’t good controls because they could die from disease. I would consider using peppermint shrimp as your control.

You should send water out for ICP analysis, that will show heavy metal issues. ICP works best in comparison though, having one test before a problem and then one after a problem starts can better pinpoint issues.

Shrimp are highly sensitive to H2O2, there may be residual amounts of that, or the building could be adding small amounts and not telling you? There used to be a low dose peroxide test on Amazon, the company name is waterworks.

Finally, check the water’s pH before the lights come on in the morning and then again late in the afternoon. If you see a large rise, there may be an aeration issue and at night, when the algae is in reverse phase, the dissolved oxygen may be dropping too low.

Jay
Another shrimp died today. We are down to 3 in this most recent batch. The damselfish we placed as our control is doing well though.

We tried doing a ICP but it didn't work out so well. We're going to try again maybe next week.

That being said, we purchased a Poly-bio-marine Filter and placed it in our sump with the advice of a local aquarium store. Over the course of about a week, it changed color to yellow-brownish which according to the filter description meant that there's a high possibility of Iron in the system. Since it didn't turn any hue of blue, we don't suspect copper at the moment as previously suggested, but we're waiting on a successful ICP to rule that out completely.

If our system does have high iron concentration, what would be some appropriate next steps?
 

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Another shrimp died today. We are down to 3 in this most recent batch. The damselfish we placed as our control is doing well though.

We tried doing a ICP but it didn't work out so well. We're going to try again maybe next week.

That being said, we purchased a Poly-bio-marine Filter and placed it in our sump with the advice of a local aquarium store. Over the course of about a week, it changed color to yellow-brownish which according to the filter description meant that there's a high possibility of Iron in the system. Since it didn't turn any hue of blue, we don't suspect copper at the moment as previously suggested, but we're waiting on a successful ICP to rule that out completely.

If our system does have high iron concentration, what would be some appropriate next steps?
I’ve never had iron as a problem in marine aquariums - it complexes so easily that it just isn’t toxic. Now - if there is iron present from some other metal alloy, that could be an issue. For example, a public aquarium had some stainless steel corroding that by itself was not the issue, but the molybdenum with it was.

ICP is really good at giving you comparative metallic ion levels.
 
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I’ve never had iron as a problem in marine aquariums - it complexes so easily that it just isn’t toxic. Now - if there is iron present from some other metal alloy, that could be an issue. For example, a public aquarium had some stainless steel corroding that by itself was not the issue, but the molybdenum with it was.

ICP is really good at giving you comparative metallic ion levels.
@Formulator

We completed the ICP and have the following results:

1720559391992.png


We're planning on using CupriSorb in our sump to address this but is there anything else about this ICP that raises any concern?
 

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@Formulator

We completed the ICP and have the following results:

1720559391992.png


We're planning on using CupriSorb in our sump to address this but is there anything else about this ICP that raises any concern?
Honestly, a lot of these values would be somewhat concerning in a reef tank, but since you are only keeping shrimp and fish, I’m not 100% sure. The lead, mercury, and cadmium are extremely toxic and really should be non-detectable. Iron that high is also concerning. Copper, lithium, and zinc could also be a problem.

Assuming these tanks are part of scholarly research, I would strongly suggest getting a separate reverse osmosis/deionization system to generate your water. Lots of variables there that could call into question any conclusions from the research study. Ex. Some metals may be less/more biologically available at different temperatures, thus compromising your independent variable (I assume, based on the way you described the tanks in the OP).
 

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Maybe I missed it but I didn't see NH3 mentioned. Are you monitoring that?

How long between "reset" and reintroduction? How do you actually reset each time? Is NH3 being processed?
 

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Maybe I missed it but I didn't see NH3 mentioned. Are you monitoring that?

How long between "reset" and reintroduction? How do you actually reset each time? Is NH3 being processed?
Ooo, this is a good question. I assumed it was cycled based on the OP listing NO3, but I didn’t hear any mention of live rock or bio substrate other than sand. Not sure if the sand bed alone would have enough surface area to process ammonia from everything or not…

It would be difficult not to laugh if after this deep dive into advanced water issues, it turns out to be ammonia!
 
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Ooo, this is a good question. I assumed it was cycled based on the OP listing NO3, but I didn’t hear any mention of live rock or bio substrate other than sand. Not sure if the sand bed alone would have enough surface area to process ammonia from everything or not…

It would be difficult not to laugh if after this deep dive into advanced water issues, it turns out to be ammonia!
We always do at least one water change and test for 0 NO3 and NO2 before we introduce new specimens into the tanks. The time between reintroduction varies with the availability of the shrimp.

The levels tend to stay pretty low (<20) because we have a sump with both biomedia blocks and filters.

In regards to the ICP-MS, we're going to be testing all water sources (DI water supply as well as the tap and drinking water we have) to source where the iron is coming from. While the presence of those other minerals (lead, mercury, and cadmium) are indeed alarming, we were told that ppt quantities shouldn't be too much of an issue. To treat it, we've purchased Cupisorb from Seachem and plan to introduce that into the sump as well.
 

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We always do at least one water change and test for 0 NO3 and NO2 before we introduce new specimens into the tanks.
Right but what about ammonia (NH3)? You need to make sure the biological filter is processing ammonia to nitrite and nitrate, so typically you actually want to see some NO3 before introducing livestock.
 

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I wonder - can you post some pictures of the set up? Possibly, that could show something amiss.....

Jay
 

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I'd have to see the setup but I can shed on light on your understanding of O. scyllarus if it helps, clear up a few things. I've spoken very closely with Roy Caldwell over the years and have plenty of experience myself.

Potential Problems
Now, we've consulted multiple people about the possible causes of the relatively frequent doom of our mantis, but nothing that has been suggested has kept them alive for more than a couple months. These were our problems and suggested solutions (that I remember at the moment):

One thing you can't rule out is this one simple truth; O. scyllarus are highly finnicky. Odontodactylus in its entirety is not hardy like the other species, they are extremely prone to ammonia poisoning, sensitive to oxygen changes, and typically have burrowing requirements that can deceptively be tricky to replicate in home aquariums since they neither create cavities nor do they just dig in deeps sand, but rather construct tunnels in specific ways so they may proper close them as needed.

The longest living O. Scyllarus recorded was 8 years old in a reef setup, from young to adult. When you get them typically medium/full grown don't be discouraged if the 1 year mark is the average experience, again they're sensitive and a lot of stress from even shipping cuts into their life span.

High NO3 - We upped the frequency of our water changes to every week, if not every 2 weeks

The longest O. Scyllarus I've had, believe it or not I've never water changed.

Not saying you shouldn't (in hindsight iodine would've punished me eventually on that one) just be really be careful how you do it, introduce the new water via an ATO and slowly replenish the removed water. Oxygen is especially your main concern.

Possible Shell Rot - confirmed that none of the mantis had this

I'd have to see pictures to verify myself, but its very rare I see a 'clean' O. scyllarus without any and the ones I did have that were clean still developed it eventually.

I'm going to be completely honest its such a losing battle when it comes to intentionally fighting shell rot its best not to think about it, in the right conditions a healthy mantis will fight it off better or not get it as bad, there is no cure once they have it and there is no prevention beyond keeping them right and evidence suggest even the ocean itself doesn't keep them right enough to prevent shell rot. . If you can say with absolute confidence "a mixed reef would be really healthy in this" then you did your part and nature will take its course.

High Stress due to Light - One of the things that we've read most recently on these forms and online is that mantis are sensitive to light which heightens their stress. The tanks they are in have face a window that opens into a hallway with motion activated light. Throughout the day, the hallway lights are relatively sporadic due to the traffic which led us to believe that the mantis have been restless. In addition, there was a monitor for another instrument that would be fairly bright at night. To alleviate this, we've temporarily put cardboard on the side with the window and covered the monitor when not in use.

When we refer to high light stressing them out, its mainly because of inadequate burrows. Its a rumor that shell rot grows under high lighting conditions like algae can but for awhile that's been an irrelevant detail because more importantly the water quality + stress of the animal is the primary factor to the disease.

O. scyllarus needs to have a large, U-shaped burrow where there's a point of complete darkness and when they close up its pitch black isolation for molting. If this isn't met it'll lead to them stressing out in a sense of being 'exposed', and has a large correlation of shell disease and lack of activity.

I've kept O. Scyllarus under 2 kessils in a in 29 gallon, they've always been happy from what I can tell and will not shy from walking around day and night, the trick is there's so many clam and snail shells from their food + rubble they can close up even with the reef lighting and molt safely, while the way the 2 burrows are setup, they're in complete darkness where I can only visually see them when they come out to look back at me (they always do) or by flash light despite the bright reef lighting. (I have 2 available u-shaped burrow locations and mine shifts happily between them, closing up one fully for molt).

Really emphasize on the U-shaped burrow, that's the barrier of success of this species and nothing else is more important, feel free to ask for dimensions and such.

Covering this monitor maybe helps but I wouldn't really concern much about it (I'm nocturnal and my RGB computer + office lights don't seem to disrupt my O. scyllarus much, she still runs around as if its night to her.)

High Stress due to Territorialism - Our current setup has one large, horizontal tank divided into 3 sections with dividers. The territorial nature of the shrimp may make it hard for them to cohabitate a single tank, even with the dividers we currently have set up. The fact that multiple shrimp live in (very) close proximity to each other may be stressing them out much more than they can handle. With the most recent batch, we have left the middle sections of the tank empty to prevent them from being in directly adjacent sections. This is the spot where we put the damsel in.

They absolutely cannot be visually kept together. Must be isolated individually in their own space.

There is possibility they can sense the chemical signals the other release but this doesn't seem to affect much ime, I've always had a mantis display + mantis sump combo without any sign of issues except one coming out looking for food while feeding the other.
 
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