Starting new tank. Researched...still have newbie questions

[JasonG1]

Hi all, I'm hoping for guidance as I set up my new FOWLR tank (that may turn into some form of coral tank in the future).

After about 8 hours of videos (including the awesome BRS 5 minute series), 8 hours of reading forums, and then ordering tons of gear... I have startup questions as I wait for everything to arrive.

I'll be using an IM AIO tank, AI prime 16 HD, AI Nero, ATO, and RO/DI system. I listed all my ordered stuff below.

1) After research, I ordered 40 lbs. of dry live rock from BRS ( https://bit.ly/411bPZg ). What is the best safe way (and when) to get good algea (coraline?) growing on this without introducing any pests or unwanted stuff?

2) Do I need to do regular weekly/bi-weekly (10/20%) water changes at first when I'm trying to cycle the tank?

3) I'm planning to add 1 clownfish with "Dr Tim's Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria" to start...can I do this on day one? I plan to be patient and realize I may not do any other adds for weeks/months based on parameters.

4) Should I really keep the lights off completely for up to 4 months? Can I turn on the moonlight for an hour or 2 each evening? I can't imagine not having any lights on for viewing for up to 4 months!! :-(

--What I bought so far...
Innovative Marine Fusion Pro 2 40 AIO with White APS Stand - https://bit.ly/3NvEBOt
AI Prime 16 HD LED Reef Light with Tank Mount
AI Nero 3 Powerhead
Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off
5 Stage Premium Plus 150 GPD Water Saver RO/DI
40 lbs. Reef Saver Aquarium Dry Live Rock - MarcoRocks - https://bit.ly/411bPZg
Aquaforest Reef Salt Mix Bucket - https://bit.ly/3VvOQ7G
(2) 20 lb. Bimini Pink Arag-Alive! Live Reef Sand - CaribSea - https://bit.ly/41WBfbE
125W Eheim JAGER Aquarium Heater
Various thermometers, hydrometer, Syncra Nano Pump (for mixing salt water), magfeeder, various water change Simplification tools (tubing, submersible pump, fittings, Brute trash barrels, shut off float)
2oz One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria - Dr.Tim's - https://bit.ly/3LnpELL
RedSea Marine Care Test Kit
Under cabinet lighting, Floor protection Mat, Power Strip

Thank you!
Jason G

 

[itrymybest]

Coralline algae will grow with time and typically only starts to grow in tanks that are 5+ months old in my experience. I wouldn't rush to get any as it will come with time.

It is better not to do water changes while cycling the tank and to let it do its thing. I usually only do a water change after the cycle is complete.

I always cycle tanks with fish and bacteria in a bottle as it has given me the best results, and I usually throw the fish in with some bacteria and feed it everyday, that will cycle the tank.

You can have your lights on from day 1, but it will encourage algae to grow. For a fowlr tank, especially when cycling and (while it is new) only turn the lights on when you are viewing the tank.

I would also recommend getting an extra heater and a heater controller like the inkbird to help with heater malfunctions.

 

[JasonG1]

Coralline algae will grow with time and typically only starts to grow in tanks that are 5+ months old in my experience. I wouldn't rush to get any as it will come with time.

It is better not to do water changes while cycling the tank and to let it do its thing. I usually only do a water change after the cycle is complete.

I always cycle tanks with fish and bacteria in a bottle as it has given me the best results, and I usually throw the fish in with some bacteria and feed it everyday, that will cycle the tank.

You can have your lights on from day 1, but it will encourage algae to grow. For a fowlr tank, especially when cycling and (while it is new) only turn the lights on when you are viewing the tank.

I would also recommend getting an extra heater and a heater controller like the inkbird to help with heater malfunctions.

Thank you itrymybest. This is helpful. I'm planning to take a different approach from the other 3-4 aquarium experiences over my life...patience and add very slowly over months/years.

 

[JasonG1]

A couple more questions please... Do I need to cure/soak the 40 lbs. of "Reef Saver Aquarium Dry Live Rock - MarcoRocks" I bought before adding to this new tank? The product page says "It is recommended to cure all rock before being used in an established system." So maybe I can just add this directly to my new setup? Also...will I need to quarantine the first (and only) fish (a clownfish) before adding to the brand new tank? I'm happy to cure & quarantine if necessary, but since this is a brand new build...I'm curious if I can save the time/effort. Thanks!

 

[hbubley]

A couple more questions please... Do I need to cure/soak the 40 lbs. of "Reef Saver Aquarium Dry Live Rock - MarcoRocks" I bought before adding to this new tank? The product page says "It is recommended to cure all rock before being used in an established system." So maybe I can just add this directly to my new setup? Also...will I need to quarantine the first (and only) fish (a clownfish) before adding to the brand new tank? I'm happy to cure & quarantine if necessary, but since this is a brand new build...I'm curious if I can save the time/effort. Thanks!

I don't cure my dry rock, I always just throw it into the tank. Never had any issues, even in established systems

 

[JasonG1]

I don't cure my dry rock, I always just throw it into the tank. Never had any issues, even in established systems

Awesome. Thanks! That saves me time on the rock. I suspect I should still quarantine the fish since I could introduce pests into my display tank.

 

[Ashwinclement]

A couple more questions please... Do I need to cure/soak the 40 lbs. of "Reef Saver Aquarium Dry Live Rock - MarcoRocks" I bought before adding to this new tank? The product page says "It is recommended to cure all rock before being used in an established system." So maybe I can just add this directly to my new setup? Also...will I need to quarantine the first (and only) fish (a clownfish) before adding to the brand new tank? I'm happy to cure & quarantine if necessary, but since this is a brand new build...I'm curious if I can save the time/effort. Thanks!

If you want to go down the “Prevention” route for livestock, you should quarantine everything before it goes in your system or buy from pre-quarantined sources. For clownfish you can get it directly drop-shipped from Biota or ORA, so they dont come into contact with any contaminated water at wholesale or LFS locations. Fish directly from ORA or Biota are relatively clean and healthy.

 

[Tcook]

Awesome. Thanks! That saves me time on the rock. I suspect I should still quarantine the fish since I could introduce pests into my display tank.

I have an observation tank that all fish, even “pre-quarantined fish, spend 8+ weeks in before going to the main DT. It’s up to you how you want to address that potential issue but having a QT/ observation setup will save you from a lot of headaches imo.

 

[Wasabiroot]

Reef pests aren't like freshwater pests - there's a lot more of them, and it seems like 50% of the time they are undetected until they show up. Many agree a quarantine tank is a great idea. Doesn't have to be complex or super big, but the bad stuff in reefing is really bad and a massive pain in the **** (i.e. AEFW, marine velvet, bryopsis/etc etc.) May as well set it up now at the start

At the same time, there are some pests that could be considered commonplace and maybe even unavoidable like hair algae, aiptasia (you can theoretically screen frag plugs and quarantine corals, but baby aiptasia are tiny and can hide in crevices). It's about finding a balance. Some people are hyper vigilant and thus have no bubble algae or aiptasia, others tolerate it (whether this is a good or bad idea is subjective, lol), but worth considering all the same.

If you aren't planning on starting w quarantine, you can at least use Safety Stop or something. I see what you're saying about the tank being brand new, but some infections are latent and invisible until the conditions arise for them to appear, and by then they're in your system unless you go fallow for a while. But once stuff is there, it can be a pain to remove.

 

[dangles]

Hey! I'm just a few month ahead of you with a similar setup

I got TONS of fantastic info from that BRS 5-minute guide, as well as from Matthew's videos on his channel (https://www.youtube.com/@MyFirstFishTank). He's also really helpful via email!

I took a similar path (except I did Dr. Tim's fishless cycle). Seems your questions are getting answered so I won't chime in, but wanted to wish you good luck and great success

 

[Not woodyarmadillo]

I have a very similar setup to yours. IM tank, Nero, AI Prime, Tunze ATO. Before you cycle, remove any filter socks etc. Turn off lights. Start testing ammonia every day. You want to see your ammonia spike and then return to zero (watch for faulty API tests, they will often never show a true zero). Once your ammonia spikes and then comes back down and you have nitrates present in tank, Your cycle is complete. You can do a large water change and then add fish. This should take approximately 10 days. At that point, you can turn lights on, add filtration etc. @brandon429 has many posts about this and it helped me with my cycle tremendously.

I do 10-20% WC every week. I didn’t do anything but put the dry rock directly in there. You are going to have some stability issues as you start out since you used dry rock but it will resolve itself as the system ages and won’t be a harm to your fish.

 

[Not woodyarmadillo]

Hey! I'm just a few month ahead of you with a similar setup

I got TONS of fantastic info from that BRS 5-minute guide, as well as from Matthew's videos on his channel (https://www.youtube.com/@MyFirstFishTank). He's also really helpful via email!

I took a similar path (except I did Dr. Tim's fishless cycle). Seems your questions are getting answered so I won't chime in, but wanted to wish you good luck and great success

I watched Matt’s entire series over a week long period and learned so much!

 

[dangles]

I watched Matt’s entire series over a week long period and learned so much!

I'm pretty sure I've watched his and BRS's about 5 times each LOL

I don't wanna know the cumulative hours I've logged on YouTube over the last 6 months

 

[dangles]

Actually I do have one suggestion…

Keep a paper log in a planner notebook if you don’t already have a system! It’s been super helpful for me.

 

[MoshJosh]

I'm only 8-9 months in so keep that in mind. . .but

1) Coraline algae will come with time and the addition of frags/snails that have coraline on the plug or shell. You can buy bottled coraline, but reviews are mixed and many reefers will just tell you to wait it out.

2) Meh I would probably wait till you know the tank is cylced and the start water changes, unless parameters get real wacky!

3) Not familiar with this specific product, but likely the answer is yes, you will want to add the bacteria day one once the water is up to the appropriate temp. (just follow the directions on the bottle.

4) Think I added first coral (xenia, super easy) after about a month or so, so turned the lights on then, but I think it will depend on a lot of factors.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

You are fighting an uphill battle with dry rock. Live rock is the best in my experience. A fish only system does not require much in the way of light and only adds to the bloom of ugly algae. If you are going dry rock at least buy rock that looks like it has coralline algae so it looks good while you try to establish it. Coralline does require more light and correct levels of Calcium and other trace minerals so you will be testing like you are keeping corals at some point. Consider macro algae for your grazers and get it established first. The macro algae looks great and helps to keep the tank balanced nutrient wise. Enjoy the ride and looking forward to your success.