Something wrong with my cycle?

[ScandiAq]

I’m new here and just setting up my first tank (Reefer 250). I opted to use dead rocks (Marco) and do a fish-less cycle. I dosed Brightwell MicroBacter StartXLM about 5 weeks ago. I managed to overshoot the ammonia which went to 3 ppm (possibly as high as 4 ppm) due to a combination of newbie naivety and Salifert shenanigans. Anyway, ammonia dropped to 0 ppm in 8 days so looked good I thought. But Nitrites only went up to 1 ppm and has stayed there ever since according to two different test kits (Salifert and JBL), not sure I can trust either of them. Nitrates are off the chart but I know that means nothing. I have two questions:

1. Anything I can/should do other than just waiting until NO2 reads 0?

2. I have a couple of clowns who have finished their quarantine. I know Nitrites is not a concern for them so I guess I may as well move them to DT now, any reason not to?

Temp 26 deg C (79 F)
Salinity 35 ppt
pH 8.1
Phosphate 0

UV, skimmer and lights have been off since the start.

 

[ReefGeezer]

Start the skimmer, UV, and lights and add the Clowns. Feed VERY little... I mean like 5 frozen mysis each per day (Thanks @Lasse)... for a week. Then start increasing feeding slowly. They won't starve.

 

[ScandiAq]

Ok thanks, I’m glad you said that!

I might feed them something other than mysis though, every time I give them mysis they get stringy white poop (which goes away as soon as I give them something else so I’m pretty sure it can’t be due to internal parasites)

 

[SlugSnorter]

have you added more ammonia to check if it goes down? Might be a good idea before adding the clowns just in case.

 

[MaxTremors]

Nitrite is usually processed very quickly when you’re cycling a tank, like if you’re not testing multiple times a day you might miss the spike. If the ammonia has gone down to zero, I would think you’re okay to add the clowns.

 

[ScandiAq]

have you added more ammonia to check if it goes down? Might be a good idea before adding the clowns just in case.

I was contemplating doing that but no I haven’t. If all is well it should come down much faster now, like in 24h right?

 

[ScandiAq]

Nitrite is usually processed very quickly when you’re cycling a tank, like if you’re not testing multiple times a day you might miss the spike. If the ammonia has gone down to zero, I would think you’re okay to add the clowns.

Interesting, well I only tested for No2 once per day at the most so maybe I missed it then. But if the bacs processed No2 that well, why would the reading not go to 0?

 

[ScandiAq]

Start the skimmer, UV, and lights and add the Clowns. Feed VERY little... I mean like 5 frozen mysis each per day (Thanks @Lasse)... for a week. Then start increasing feeding slowly. They won't starve.

Ok thanks, I’m glad you said that!

I might feed them something other than mysis though, every time I give them mysis they get stringy white poop (which goes away as soon as I give them something else so I’m pretty sure it can’t be due to internal parasites)

 

[MaxTremors]

Interesting, well I only tested for No2 once per day at the most so maybe I missed it then. But if the bacs processed No2 that well, why would the reading not go to 0?

Depending on the test kit you’re using, it very well could be a false positive. So long as you’re seeing ammonia go down and nitrates go up, I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[Lasse]

Do not add any more ammonia - it can delay the second step much longer and you end up with high nitrate levels after the start. If you have pure nitrification bacteria on hand - add that every day. Mysis or my favorite adult artemia - is good to use if you introduce your clowns. Especially the artemia will ad a tiny amount of PO4 that can trigg your second stage bacteria (Nitrite Oxidation Bacteria - NOB) to grow

Sincerely Lasse

 

[ScandiAq]

Do not add any more ammonia - it can delay the second step much longer and you end up with high nitrate levels after the start. If you have pure nitrification bacteria on hand - add that every day. Mysis or my favorite adult artemia - is good to use if you introduce your clowns. Especially the artemia will ad a tiny amount of PO4 that can trigg your second stage bacteria (Nitrite Oxidation Bacteria - NOB) to grow

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks, that makes sense and it’s why I hesitated to add more ammonia. I added the last of my Microbacter StartXLM a week ago and it’s a pain to get hold of this end of Europe (as you may know…). But I have some BioSpira, which I guess is basically the same thing but is it a bad idea to add in a new bacteria culture at this stage?

Ok I will feed artemia. I did wonder if 0 Phosphate was a concern so I’m glad you brought it up.

 

[Lasse]

But I have some BioSpira

I would use that I did not mention it because it is also difficult to access in Sweden. I normally use SERA NitriVeck - easy to buy in Sweden - 20 ml/ 100L every day., It is for freshwater - but I have used it for many years in both fresh and salt water.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[radfly]

I’m new here and just setting up my first tank (Reefer 250). I opted to use dead rocks (Marco) and do a fish-less cycle. I dosed Brightwell MicroBacter StartXLM about 5 weeks ago. I managed to overshoot the ammonia which went to 3 ppm (possibly as high as 4 ppm) due to a combination of newbie naivety and Salifert shenanigans. Anyway, ammonia dropped to 0 ppm in 8 days so looked good I thought. But Nitrites only went up to 1 ppm and has stayed there ever since according to two different test kits (Salifert and JBL), not sure I can trust either of them. Nitrates are off the chart but I know that means nothing. I have two questions:

1. Anything I can/should do other than just waiting until NO2 reads 0?

2. I have a couple of clowns who have finished their quarantine. I know Nitrites is not a concern for them so I guess I may as well move them to DT now, any reason not to?

Temp 26 deg C (79 F)
Salinity 35 ppt
pH 8.1
Phosphate 0

UV, skimmer and lights have been off since the start.

View attachment 2659865

I would verify nitrite is below 5ppm, change no more that 20 percent water weekly until so. Then, add fish, feed sparingly, monitor nitrite to keep below 5ppm. It will take up to six more weeks for nitrite to drop to zero, and only then can you get a reliable nitrate reading. Lights are your choice, gotta hit the ugly phase and get over with it... get a couple turbo snails when it gets bad. Then, you can play with getting phosphate and nitrate under control. Once nitrate is under 15 ppm and phosphate under .15ppm, throw in a coral to see how things go.

If at any time you add another fish, expect another nitrite spike that may last two weeks, during which time you again cannot get a reliable nitrate reading.

Good luck!

 

[Lasse]

By the way - do not turn on light before you have introduce a clean up crew

sincerely Lasse