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I had a Yuma that started out the size of a quarter that has nearly tripled in sizeIm having the same issues. My zoas dont like to grow quick. My mushroom is multiplying like mad tho.
I often have to blow the algae off of my zoas and out of the branches of my cinulara since it’s such a small system I think the snails should do the trick. I do have a bottle of phosband on hand but no reactor system for this size systemIm going to say that algae/bryopsis/hair algae is stunting you coral growth. Sometimes test kits give false reading. What I would do is to try to control the algae, with ceirth snails and margarita snail. ( they will clean your tank but they will die shorty after) or you can go for the uv light or phosban reactor route. Once the green algae is under control your coral growth will take off. As for the purple and pink helix. At this moment they are fighting to establish themselves in a tank that has algae established in it.
I didn't think it was turf algae at first but the more I look at it the more I believe you are correct. UV Sterilizer is in the mailThat looks like it could be a lot of turf algae and also Dino. I would work on getting the tank clean before trying to dial in the coral. The Dino itself could be causing problems. After that, toss the API. Get more accurate test kits. I would work on the algae first
The more I look at the algae the more I think you are correct about it being Turf. I think like someone said before a combo of turf/hair/ & dinos. Thank you for all your help!Looks like green turf but is there bubbles in the algea?
If you can pull rocks out the best way to clean them is a water/peroxide bath/scrub with brush. Then rinse in fresh RODI water.The more I look at the algae the more I think you are correct about it being Turf. I think like someone said before a combo of turf/hair/ & dinos. Thank you for all your help!
+1 and in a small tank it should be easy to rip clean that bad boy.Remove the Dino first, as it can kill snails that eat it. Nutrients, blackout, UV, vibrant/dr. Tim’s. Hit it hard, all at once
Do you have a UV sterilizer? My tank isn't even 2 months old and bloom is gone. It started to get a little brown bloom. As soon as I flipped the switch on the 16watt UV it was gone. Knock on wood and hopefully stays that way.
unfortunately can't take the rocks out the all have something attached to them they why would get upset about. UV sanitizer on the wayIf you can pull rocks out the best way to clean them is a water/peroxide bath/scrub with brush. Then rinse in fresh RODI water.
It will clean the rocks and not harm the beneficial bacteria in the rocks at all.
Just got one in the mail, trying to figure out the best way to add it in the filter areaDo you have a UV sterilizer? My tank isn't even 2 months old and bloom is gone. It started to get a little brown bloom. As soon as I flipped the switch on the 16watt UV it was gone. Knock on wood and hopefully stays that way.
I am doing a 5 gallon water change everyday and the volume of the tank is only ~10-11.Algae Identification
Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?www.reef2reef.com
WV had rocks similar to those shown on page 1 here under the full spec lights, agreed there are two options we currently use in the hobby on small reefs: instant cleaning, no delay where possible and then no deep cleaning, water work only, wait and delay but this method is very low work.
I hate to see our $ holed up for months, having to tell people who see the tank about the uglies/ inside we feel like we're showing an unideal reef but things w get better one day...that's why I gravitate towards rip it clean last month. WV sure did above. can't stand to see a reef undergoing eutrophication even though that's the specific succession they will go through when left to natural means. after we found out ten years ago that bacteria weren't as weak as people said, all kinds of crazy tank ripping has gone down.
*for this thread, a benefit of a complete clean is now your system is very hungry again...spot feed each lps now and sustain for two mos.
your reef is packed with nutrients, if you shake rocks off midwater a large cloud will emit from them.
same for sand. that makes us want to feed less/ bodybuilders are never feeding less on a positive nitrogen exercise plan. they'd go atrophic if they did that, reefs can have atrophy too
feed more often than you have been, and change more water than you have been, sustain this for 8 weeks exactly like a human exercise program above steady state, don't fail.
corals will grow and you'll be pouring lots of reef water down the drain, this is nano body building. The current stasis is not getting desired results, so everything posted here is totally opposite of the current stasis and it cannot have the same outcome, the means are different.
The issue is anemones attached to the rocks, I drilled holes in the rock for the plugs so those can be moved, the 3 pieces of rock all have either RFA or BTA/ Yuma.also, still take the rocks out.
they wont get mad, the thread above shows be sure and read the totality of what he did to command a reef tank like the final pic, that's what your tank needs. its simply changing a fixed scape into an unfixed one and liking the new one better, a mere choice.
an inaccessible scape is contributing a lot here, simply undo that plan for the greater reef. the sum total of directions applied arrive here, we have to reverse them all to have the rocks different and the lps reproducing with new buds off to the side of each head twice a year.