Slime, and hair algae

[Knight420]

I currently have brown slime and green hair algae in my tank. It is still new maybe 6 months old. I am currently adding API Aglae Fix as directed on the bottle. My banded shrimp shed once but seems ok. My emerald crab also seems ok so far I hope. Either way I have to get rid of the Algae.

As I said before I started the API treatment and am just now on the 2nd dose. It does seem to be improving. I have also added some nitrate and phosphate filter media to the sump. I have also done a water change after the 3 days are up and it's ready for the next dose. I do the water change right before the dose. 7g every 3 days in a 40g total system. I also use a siphon system with a toothbrush for the rocks and a turkey baster for the coral.

I need this alga gone now! I have already lost 3 corals all babies, daisies, blasto and pipe I think it was more due to the toothbrush. I know it was soft. That is was I switched to the turkey baster

I would love any advice

 

[Eric Cohen]

Any Cyano bacteria can be treated with a safe treatment like one I make called Red Cyano Rx. It also treats Green Cyano too.....Not expensive and usually works in 2 days. Syphoning before and after treatment is a good idea too. Treat in the morning....make sure your Ph is 8.0 or higher.

 

[Lavey29]

I currently have brown slime and green hair algae in my tank. It is still new maybe 6 months old. I am currently adding API Aglae Fix as directed on the bottle. My banded shrimp shed once but seems ok. My emerald crab also seems ok so far I hope. Either way I have to get rid of the Algae.

As I said before I started the API treatment and am just now on the 2nd dose. It does seem to be improving. I have also added some nitrate and phosphate filter media to the sump. I have also done a water change after the 3 days are up and it's ready for the next dose. I do the water change right before the dose. 7g every 3 days in a 40g total system. I also use a siphon system with a toothbrush for the rocks and a turkey baster for the coral.

I need this alga gone now! I have already lost 3 corals all babies, daisies, blasto and pipe I think it was more due to the toothbrush. I know it was soft. That is was I switched to the turkey baster

I would love any advice

Dosing harsh chemicals into a new tank with normal nuisance algae growing as part of the tanks evolution may help with one problem but will open the door for worse problems. There are other natural methods.

 

[Knight420]

Dosing harsh chemicals into a new tank with normal nuisance algae growing as part of the tanks evolution may help with one problem but will open the door for worse problems. There are other natural methods.

I would understand if it was just a little bit, but this is covering my coral and killing them off.

 

[Lavey29]

I would understand if it was just a little bit, but this is covering my coral and killing them off.

All of us have had the same battles the first year of tank maturing process. I had a giant GHA jungle but beat it back naturally with no chemicals.

 

[vetteguy53081]

It is impossible to offer help without proper identification and pics under white lighting will be needed for proper identification

 

[Knight420]

It is impossible to offer help without proper identification and pics under white lighting will be needed for proper identification

I can send pics tomorrow when the white light is on. I work most of the time. All I know is it is 2 kinds. 1 is like a slime that coats the rock and coral but comes off easily. It has a lot of bubbles when the light is on. Then there is a hair that will grow mainly around the coral. This is really hard to get off. Almost like it is rooted in.

 

[Eric Cohen]

I would understand if it was just a little bit, but this is covering my coral and killing them off.

It’s not harsh. Probably the easiest 2-3 day treatment you’ll do. Cyano is a pain for us all and we are lucky we can treat it without big negatives.

 

[Knight420]

It’s not harsh. Probably the easiest 2-3 day treatment you’ll do. Cyano is a pain for us all and we are lucky we can treat it without big negatives.

Cyano? is that the slime with all the bubbles?

 

[Knight420]

It is impossible to offer help without proper identification and pics under white lighting will be needed for proper identification

 

[Eric Cohen]

Cyano? is that the slime with all the bubbles?

Cyano algae is a fine blanket type of algae. Yes it can grow bubbles in its heinous web too!

 

[Knight420]

Cyano algae is a fine blanket type of algae. Yes it can grow bubbles in its heinous web too!

Hey, I just ordered this Chemi-Clean I hope it will kill off the Cyano. It says it is reef safe, and safe for everything in my tank. It says it works in 48 hours. I was just wondering have you tried this? I want to get the under control before I lose anymore coral or add any more.

 

[Eric Cohen]

Hey, I just ordered this Chemi-Clean I hope it will kill off the Cyano. It says it is reef safe, and safe for everything in my tank. It says it works in 48 hours. I was just wondering have you tried this? I want to get the under control before I lose anymore coral or add any more.

This is not the same active ingredient as my product but I believe it’s safe and should work in 2 days. Follow their directions! Good luck!

 

[Knight420]

This is not the same active ingredient as my product but I believe it’s safe and should work in 2 days. Follow their directions! Good luck!

thank you, I just started the treatment today. I wanted to be sure to follow the directions the best I could. I took out all the filter media, and added an air pump with 2 air stones. That should provide the O2. Crossing my fingers

 

[brandon429]

The Bacterial “Rip Clean” Method

Not to be confused with other similar threads were you are required to work hard, I’m a laid back kinda reefer and hard work is just not for me, sorry I prefer to allow the bacteria to do that work for me. The goal of this thread is to discuss and illustrate the use of carbohydrates into clean...

www.reef2reef.com

Knight, please consider this option we need test tanks.

 

[Knight420]

The Bacterial “Rip Clean” Method

Not to be confused with other similar threads were you are required to work hard, I’m a laid back kinda reefer and hard work is just not for me, sorry I prefer to allow the bacteria to do that work for me. The goal of this thread is to discuss and illustrate the use of carbohydrates into clean...

www.reef2reef.com

Knight, please consider this option we need test tanks.

I have already started the treatment and I don't feel comfortable using my display as a "test tank"

 

[vetteguy53081]

Slime algae and even a little cyano. Cyano is a bcateria and not fine and an indicator or elevated levls due to some causes below. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[brandon429]

considering the threads chemi clean killed my reef, you're in testing regardless

but

thats a very low rate of loss, mostly it topically kills cyano/searches show. don't think that's a mean thing to say, am being honest about safety. Worst case scenario above, you get no change. messing with n and p/ very common nowadays and the heart of Sixty's thread/ has not wiped out tanks like chemiclean has in several searches.

as far as blending the two/agreed I would not, better to hold current exclusive course if you feel it's safe for the investment.

 

[Knight420]

Slime algae and even a little cyano. Cyano is a bcateria and not fine and an indicator or elevated levls due to some causes below. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

thank you very much, that was a very informative read. I do not have a protein skimmer as I didn't have the room in the Fiji cube drop in. I have Cheatomorpha in the refugium, some Phosphate and Nitrate filter media. I do have some blue legs hermits, and I lost count on how many, and the kinds of snails. I also have a Halloween crab, Emerald crab, banded shrimp, Diamond Goby, and Lawnmower Blenny.

It does seem to be getting better, my GSP was out today, and my Sympodium is starting to peek out too. It started to get better yesterday before I added the Chemiclean. I still added it with an air pump with 2 stones to raise the O2 in the tank as it said to do on the box.

All the fish, crabs, snails, and shrimp seem do be doing good as well. Everything seems to be on the up and up.

I will be adding more snails and hermit crabs after the treatment. Well probably just hermits, I have a whole lot of snails already lol. I added extra snails because I know the hermits would go for their shells.

 

[Eric Cohen]

Slime algae and even a little cyano. Cyano is a bcateria and not fine and an indicator or elevated levls due to some causes below. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Do you also consider lighting as a source of Cyano or algae issues? I would also recommend Clear Fx Pro by Blue Life USA instead of Chemipure.....higher grade carbon and more efficient resins by 20-30 percent (according to my resin manufacture). If phosphates aren't an issue then the Clear Fx Reef will do a better job removing organics as it's more based on organic removal than phosphate.