Sinline Wrasse Intestinal worms/Internal parasites ID/Treatment

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Hey all,

I've got a sixline wrasse thats been in qt for 2 weeks now. Just this morning I'm seeing signs of what I believe are internal parasites? Tank started at 1.018sg and has slowly been rising due to evaporation, close to 1.021 at this point.

Can I please get confirmation on if this is some sort of internal pest, and if so what treatment is necessary? This is the only fish in the qt so I'm not too concerned about this spreading, but how contagious is this?

Thanks,

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hey all,

I've got a sixline wrasse thats been in qt for 2 weeks now. Just this morning I'm seeing signs of what I believe are internal parasites? Tank started at 1.018sg and has slowly been rising due to evaporation, close to 1.021 at this point.

Can I please get confirmation on if this is some sort of internal pest, and if so what treatment is necessary? This is the only fish in the qt so I'm not too concerned about this spreading, but how contagious is this?

Thanks,

Intestinal worms don't actually cause mucus feces, but single celled parasites can. Trouble is, it is a symptom of a number of different issues. Here is a write-up I did about that:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.

Jay

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Intestinal worms don't actually cause mucus feces, but single celled parasites can. Trouble is, it is a symptom of a number of different issues. Here is a write-up I did about that:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.

Jay

Morning Jay,

Unfortunately I dont have access to a microscope, so a proper diagnosis may be unobtainable. Is there a safe, catchall treatment I can attempt that will atleast give some fighting chance to all of the above possibilities?

 

[MnFish1]

Are you treating the fish right now in QT? i.e. with copper? Prazipro would be a good choice after you're done with copper (assuming you're using copper). I would also monitor - as the feces you're seeing may just be related to transport, what you're feeding, etc.

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Are you treating the fish right now in QT? i.e. with copper? Prazipro would be a good choice after you're done with copper (assuming you're using copper). I would also monitor - as the feces you're seeing may just be related to transport, what you're feeding, etc.

Observation period would be a more accurate description of what I've done so far. The medication process during qt comes across as a very intimidating idea. Ive had the fish for 2 weeks and this is the first sign of any issue so far. I dont have a hanna copper test so I imagine that would be needed before I can do any dosing?

 

[MnFish1]

Observation period would be a more accurate description of what I've done so far. The medication process during qt comes across as a very intimidating idea. Ive had the fish for 2 weeks and this is the first sign of any issue so far. I dont have a hanna copper test so I imagine that would be needed before I can do any dosing?

Correct - I mean there are many tests out there - the consensus seems to be that the Hanna is 'best'. PS - the copper is not for the 'poop' - its if you're using the standard R2R quarantine protocol

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have reason to believe this is mucus feces and not parasitical
Often changing up foods, adding TDO pellets, LRS fish frenzy as examples will change the consistency of the feces

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

I have reason to believe this is mucus feces and not parasitical
Often changing up foods, adding TDO pellets, LRS fish frenzy as examples will change the consistency of the feces

I've been feeding more mysis vs pellets lately. I'll keep an eye out to see if anything improves. Assuming its mucus would it clearup on its own?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Morning Jay,

Unfortunately I dont have access to a microscope, so a proper diagnosis may be unobtainable. Is there a safe, catchall treatment I can attempt that will atleast give some fighting chance to all of the above possibilities?

Metronidazole (Metroplex) in a treatment tank will treat one of the listed issues - protozoans.

Jay

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Status update: the sixline didnt eat last night or this morning. When I did the nightly checkup before bed I found him on his side, assuming that he was dead. Luckily hes still alive but isnt doing good. He only swims about if I disturb the tank, otherwise he lays on his side breathing heavily. Is there anything that can be done at this point? Does this rapid deterioration narrow down the potential cause?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Status update: the sixline didnt eat last night or this morning. When I did the nightly checkup before bed I found him on his side, assuming that he was dead. Luckily hes still alive but isnt doing good. He only swims about if I disturb the tank, otherwise he lays on his side breathing heavily. Is there anything that can be done at this point? Does this rapid deterioration narrow down the potential cause?

The rapid breathing is often a sign that the problem has become systemic, that is, spreading through the fish. It could be the protozoan issue that I mentioned....but coccidia give the same symptoms and cannot be treated.

Jay

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

The rapid breathing is often a sign that the problem has become systemic, that is, spreading through the fish. It could be the protozoan issue that I mentioned....but coccidia give the same symptoms and cannot be treated.

Jay

Hey Jay,
Thanks for the rapid response. Are there any similar products I can use that would be found at petco or petsmart? It doesnt look like any of my local stores stock metroplex. Would API General Cure work as a substitution?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hey Jay,
Thanks for the rapid response. Are there any similar products I can use that would be found at petco or petsmart? It doesnt look like any of my local stores stock metroplex. Would API General Cure work as a substitution?

Yes - General Cure has metronidazole in it, but it also has praziquantel. The trouble is that metro is dosed every 48 hours for 3 to 5 treatments, while prazi is typically dosed 2 or 3 times, every 7 or 8 days.

Jay

 

[MnFish1]

Hey Jay,
Thanks for the rapid response. Are there any similar products I can use that would be found at petco or petsmart? It doesnt look like any of my local stores stock metroplex. Would API General Cure work as a substitution?

Though the doses are different - given the rapidity - and given that that's all you have - I would use the directions on the box. I would try (if possible) to heavily aerate the water. (i.e. an airstone)

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Yes - General Cure has metronidazole in it, but it also has praziquantel. The trouble is that metro is dosed every 48 hours for 3 to 5 treatments, while prazi is typically dosed 2 or 3 times, every 7 or 8 days.

Jay

Hi Jay,

Looks like its 250mg metro and 75mg praz. The directions say to dose once every 48hrs, taking the concentrations into account would that make sense? This was the only thing I could find local, I just applied the first dose as I dont think I had any time to wait vs finding seachem metroplex.

Thanks

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Though the doses are different - given the rapidity - and given that that's all you have - I would use the directions on the box. I would try (if possible) to heavily aerate the water. (i.e. an airstone)

I have a HOB filter rated for a 30 gallon tank running at maximum flow for my 10 gallon. I figured this would be more than ample, do you think an airstone would still be necessary?

 

[MnFish1]

Hi Jay,

Looks like its 250mg metro and 75mg praz. The directions say to dose once every 48hrs, taking the concentrations into account would that make sense? This was the only thing I could find local, I just applied the first dose as I dont think I had any time to wait vs finding seachem metroplex.

Thanks

FYI - if you can get or know a veterinarian, they can give you a prescription for metronidazole (which is metroplex) - which should be available at any pharmacy. If you can do this dissolve the entire tablet in the tank.

 

[MnFish1]

I have a HOB filter rated for a 30 gallon tank running at maximum flow for my 10 gallon. I figured this would be more than ample, do you think an airstone would still be necessary?

No - that sounds good

 

[FishRFriends!=Food]

Unfortunate update: got home and the sixline had passed. My fiance dosed the medication around 930 this morning. She noted that he started to seize or flop around once she did so, does this point to anything?

Both fish I've gotten from this one LFS havent made it past 2 weeks, bad luck or should I look elsewhere moving forward? Their tanks have been running for just over 2 months.

Moving forward, what action is necessary for the qt tank. Is a fallow period needed? Should all tank water be drained due to the medication? I'm undecided if I'll continue to purchase unqt fish unless I have the means to properly medicate from the start.

 

[MnFish1]

Unfortunate update: got home and the sixline had passed. My fiance dosed the medication around 930 this morning. She noted that he started to seize or flop around once she did so, does this point to anything?

Both fish I've gotten from this one LFS havent made it past 2 weeks, bad luck or should I look elsewhere moving forward? Their tanks have been running for just over 2 months.

Moving forward, what action is necessary for the qt tank. Is a fallow period needed? Should all tank water be drained due to the medication? I'm undecided if I'll continue to purchase unqt fish unless I have the means to properly medicate from the start.

You can clean the QT tank, you don't need a fallow period for that. (just clean it well) - yes all of the medication containing water should be drained. And agreed - do not purchase unquarantined fish unless you have the means to properly QT them from the start. Best wishes you will do fine