Sick black wrasse labored breathing and red gills

[crazyfishmom]

Hi all,

Trying to help a fellow fish keeper going through a hard time with her tanks.

This fish was moved from a 100 gallon tank where there was a big ammonia spike after trying to treat skin disease on a puffer fish. The fish was exposed to ammonia for 3-4 days unfortunately.

The fish was subsequently moved to a 29 gallon tank with two other fish who are acting completely normal. The tank also contains some inverts that are doing well.

Tank does not contain corals.

Here is a video of the fish:



Any thoughts #fishmedic, @Jay Hemdal, @vetteguy53081 ?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all,

Trying to help a fellow fish keeper going through a hard time with her tanks.

This fish was moved from a 100 gallon tank where there was a big ammonia spike after trying to treat skin disease on a puffer fish. The fish was exposed to ammonia for 3-4 days unfortunately.

The fish was subsequently moved to a 29 gallon tank with two other fish who are acting completely normal. The tank also contains some inverts that are doing well.

Tank does not contain corals.

Here is a video of the fish:



Any thoughts #fishmedic, @Jay Hemdal, @vetteguy53081 ?

The image is very fuzzy but based on what you stated and with other fish and inverts acting normal, it points to disease and likely gill flukes or flukes in general. With flukes, other fish should be showing symptoms but not always. Im not going to sit here and say tank looks bad, but it looks like maintenance needs to be address and blowing off rocks and doing a good siphoning. What type of filter does this tank have?
Additionally, can you provide pic of entire tank?
Lastly- what is your current ammonia and ph level and how are you testing water?

 

[MnFish1]

Curious - what was the ammonia to which the fish was exposed? Of course ammonia can cause gill damage - though usually would affect more than one fish. Has anything new been added to the tank that may have introduced flukes or other illness? What skin disease did the puffer have, what was the treatment?

 

[crazyfishmom]

Thanks for the responses all. My friend Jodi (wrasse owner) will be responding shortly. Probably better to have to directly from her since I don’t know all the particulars.

 

[capecodjodi100]

Thanks for the responses all. My friend Jodi (wrasse owner) will be responding shortly. Probably better to have to directly from her since I don’t know all the particulars.

Hi. Won't argue it's cleanliness and remember this was an emergency swap so fear of crashng tbis tank w livestock plus extra stress limits me tosmall repairs but this tank has always been problematic for algea but I will try to post better view. As you can see, one side is red.The other side appears healthy. I've tried Several attempts at a protein's simmer uv sterilizer. In here but more impor my peramwterd as of 830 am My Temps are hi 80 my ph is 8 to 8.2..ammonia 0 to .25 my nitrite 0 nitrates 40 to 80 ppm ruby red 3 days w 2 sm 1 liter water changes. These hi nitrate results are after having tested 15 min after feeding by acciden but have been high since day 1 of the swap. I use api marine. I've a 6 phase rodi running under 10 tti. I test and change with matching parameters. I'm worried the wrasse has not eaten in 3 weeks is labored and stressed. I can tube feed if necessary. I am worried about this

Thanks for the responses all. My friend Jodi (wrasse owner) will be responding shortly. Probably better to have to directly from her since I don’t know all the particulars.

 

[capecodjodi100]

Curious - what was the ammonia to which the fish was exposed? Of course ammonia can cause gill damage - though usually would affect more than one fish. Has anything new been added to the tank that may have introduced flukes or other illness? What skin disease did the puffer have, what was the treatment?

I posted a pic of what I pulled them out of after 3 to 4 days

Hi. Won't argue it's cleanliness and remember this was an emergency swap so fear of crashng tbis tank w livestock plus extra stress limits me tosmall repairs but this tank has always been problematic for algea but I will try to post better view. As you can see, one side is red.The other side appears healthy. I've tried Several attempts at a protein's simmer uv sterilizer. In here but more impor my peramwterd as of 830 am My Temps are hi 80 my ph is 8 to 8.2..ammonia 0 to .25 my nitrite 0 nitrates 40 to 80 ppm ruby red 3 days w 2 sm 1 liter water changes. These hi nitrate results are after having tested 15 min after feeding by acciden but have been high since day 1 of the swap. I use api marine. I've a 6 phase rodi running under 10 tti. I test and change with matching parameters. I'm worried the wrasse has not eaten in 3 weeks is labored and stressed. I can tube feed if necessary. I am worried about this

Hi. Won't argue it's cleanliness and remember this was an emergency swap so fear of crashng tbis tank w livestock plus extra stress limits me tosmall repairs but this tank has always been problematic for algea but I will try to post better view. As you can see, one side is red.The other side appears healthy. I've tried Several attempts at a protein's simmer uv sterilizer. In here but more impor my peramwterd as of 830 am My Temps are hi 80 my ph is 8 to 8.2..ammonia 0 to .25 my nitrite 0 nitrates 40 to 80 ppm ruby red 3 days w 2 sm 1 liter water changes. These hi nitrate results are after having tested 15 min after feeding by acciden but have been high since day 1 of the swap. I use api marine. I've a 6 phase rodi running under 10 tti. I test and change with matching parameters. I'm worried the wrasse has not eaten in 3 weeks is labored and stressed. I can tube feed if necessary. I am worried about this

Im.newnto the technical of this so bare with
Not being short just trying to reply efficiently

 

[capecodjodi100]

Thanks for the responses all. My friend Jodi (wrasse owner) will be responding shortly. Probably better to have to directly from her since I don’t know all the particulars.

Did I reply wright

 

[capecodjodi100]

The image is very fuzzy but based on what you stated and with other fish and inverts acting normal, it points to disease and likely gill flukes or flukes in general. With flukes, other fish should be showing symptoms but not always. Im not going to sit here and say tank looks bad, but it looks like maintenance needs to be address and blowing off rocks and doing a good siphoning. What type of filter does this tank have?
Additionally, can you provide pic of entire tank?
Lastly- what is your current ammonia and ph level and how are you testing water?

Did I reply to u correctly

 

[crazyfishmom]

Hi. Won't argue it's cleanliness and remember this was an emergency swap so fear of crashng tbis tank w livestock plus extra stress limits me tosmall repairs but this tank has always been problematic for algea but I will try to post better view. As you can see, one side is red.The other side appears healthy. I've tried Several attempts at a protein's simmer uv sterilizer. In here but more impor my peramwterd as of 830 am My Temps are hi 80 my ph is 8 to 8.2..ammonia 0 to .25 my nitrite 0 nitrates 40 to 80 ppm ruby red 3 days w 2 sm 1 liter water changes. These hi nitrate results are after having tested 15 min after feeding by acciden but have been high since day 1 of the swap. I use api marine. I've a 6 phase rodi running under 10 tti. I test and change with matching parameters. I'm worried the wrasse has not eaten in 3 weeks is labored and stressed. I can tube feed if necessary. I am worried about this

Hi Jodi, yes. If you reply directly to a specific post it helps. Hopefully vetteguy will see and respond again to the added information.

 

[MnFish1]

Did I reply to u correctly

What was the ammonia in the tank the fish was removed from? What disease was the puffer treated for - and with what? I do not think you should notice a nitrate difference within 15 minutes of a feeding. The picture of the tests are hard to interpret due to the light - and it is also not the way to read that test - but to me your pH looks lower than 8 - and your ammonia looks higher than 0.25. Again - this may be the light. Were you saying that your 6 stage RODI unit is putting out 10 TDI? Do you know what the water in your house is (by the way I wouldn't think this should be causing the issue with the wrasse). Does your area have chloramines in the water?

 

[MnFish1]

I posted a pic of what I pulled them out of after 3 to 4 days


Im.newnto the technical of this so bare with
Not being short just trying to reply efficiently

OK - so - I would read that ammonia in the picture at about 1 ppm. That is not likely to cause gill disease - unless it was higher during the 4 days previous. And - no need to apologize - the reason people answer questions is to help you - not criticize. I think it was a good idea to remove the fish from the other tank. However, I'm now leaning to agree with @vetteguy53081 that unless there was a severe ammonia situation in the other tank, the 1 ppm should not cause a huge issue - though - if the pH was high (it was not) - thats a different story.

Just to close another question - what was the puffer being treated for/with?

 

[capecodjodi100]

What was the ammonia in the tank the fish was removed from? What disease was the puffer treated for - and with what? I do not think you should notice a nitrate difference within 15 minutes of a feeding. The picture of the tests are hard to interpret due to the light - and it is also not the way to read that test - but to me your pH looks lower than 8 - and your ammonia looks higher than 0.25. Again - this may be the light. Were you saying that your 6 stage RODI unit is putting out 10 TDI? Do you know what the water in your house is (by the way I wouldn't think this should be causing the issue with the wrasse). Does your area have chloramines in the water?

Ammonia was 1 to 2 ppm. The puffer stopped eating 2 months earlier. Began to show mouth rot issue but no positive diagnosis was made. Treated with erythromycin kano neo and furan2. That was all I could consider idk the water in beyond 220 in 0 to 10 out. Oh was low but hovers between 7 and 8. My rodi is very low ph so I use super buffer. I'm sendingbthe water out to be tested since norton water is bad and gotten worse the last 5 months

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi Jodi, yes. If you reply directly to a specific post it helps. Hopefully vetteguy will see and respond again to the added information.

Take a water sample to a store that does not use API test kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours. We will then take it from there

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi all,

Trying to help a fellow fish keeper going through a hard time with her tanks.

This fish was moved from a 100 gallon tank where there was a big ammonia spike after trying to treat skin disease on a puffer fish. The fish was exposed to ammonia for 3-4 days unfortunately.

The fish was subsequently moved to a 29 gallon tank with two other fish who are acting completely normal. The tank also contains some inverts that are doing well.

Tank does not contain corals.

Here is a video of the fish:



Any thoughts #fishmedic, @Jay Hemdal, @vetteguy53081 ?

Red gills are actually a good sign, at least it means that the fish isn't anemic. My guess is that the fish is pale for some reason, (stress) and that is making the red gills show through.

The fish seems to have some damage to its mouth - the lips seem whiter than they should be. Possibly mechanical damage from running into something?

 

[capecodjodi100]

Take a water sample to a store that does not use API test kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours. We will then take it from there

Will do asap

 

[capecodjodi100]

We're going into some risky anorexia With this wrasse fish that i have not being able to successfully diagnosis. I've got a fairly clear view inside his mouth which seems unobstructed. He Remains upside down always. I will add his age is unknown But believe the dusky wrasse may fade with age. Did a DO2 test that was well within recomended o2 range for fish. I can't id rot on fins but they appear slightly damaged possibly ammonia.

 

[vetteguy53081]

We're going into some risky anorexia With this wrasse fish that i have not being able to successfully diagnosis. I've got a fairly clear view inside his mouth which seems unobstructed. He Remains upside down always. I will add his age is unknown But believe the dusky wrasse may fade with age. Did a DO2 test that was well within recomended o2 range for fish. I can't id rot on fins but they appear slightly damaged possibly ammonia.

This fish is bloated and may also be moribund unless its bladder but difficult to determine from photo. A video of at least 15-20 sec would be more helpful. Moribund is where the fish may not eat or swim normal moving forward. If buoyancy, its up to the fish to release air.
Ammonia wont cause the rot but can be bacterial or aggression.
Is fish breathing heavy which I suspect?
Again, video will be helpful