Saltwater Aquarium Levels

[koreys496]

Hey all,
I’ve been cycling my 29g aquarium for 2 months now, couple fish stores have said it’s nearly time to add some things into the aquarium but I’ve been told by a buddy of mine that they didn’t know what they were talking about. We checked my levels tonight and they came up as the following. . .

High Range pH - 7.8
Ammonia - 0.50 ppm
Nitrite - 0.25 ppm
Nitrate - 5.0 ppm
Salt Level - 1.021

now I’m doubtful that it’s nearly time to add some fish and that these levels are “good” so that’s why I figured I’d ask those who have been in this hobby for quite some time. Any recommendations to lower levels if needed? Product recommendations? Timeline to add any fish, shrimp or so fourth?

Here is what’s been called recommended and used on the tank so far for the last couple weeks. . .
- API Marine Quick Start
- API Ammo Lock
- Clarity (Water clarifier)
- Prime

Here is what’s currently in the 29g tank . . .
- Wave Maker
- Live Rock
- Live Sand (Brand: Ocean Direct)
- Artificial Anemone

I use water from home, throw in some water conditioner and add Instant Ocean Sea Salt.

I have been doing this water changes an every couple days as Nitrites were at 5.0 ppm while Nitrates were at 80 ppm, they have lowered since but are slowly rising back up.

 

[glb]

As long as there’s any ammonia in the tank it’s unsafe to add things. Your tank is well into its cycle because you have nitrates. You don’t need ammo lock or prime if nothing’s in the tank. Once your ammonia is zero two days in a row your cycle would be done. Be careful with the water changes before then because they can actually slow down a cycle. When the cycle’s done, do water changes until your nitrates are down to a level you want (fish are ok with higher levels, corals need lower). Good luck! You’re going to love this hobby.

 

[glb]

I just saw that you use home water. Do you mean tap water? If so, I’d recommend switching to RODI water. There’s a lot of things in tap water other than the chlorine that could mess with your tank. RODI units don’t have to be that expensive. You could also buy distilled water for that size tank. I think you’ll have much less worry long term if you make the switch now.

 

[koreys496]

I just saw that you use home water. Do you mean tap water? If so, I’d recommend switching to RODI water. There’s a lot of things in tap water other than the chlorine that could mess with your tank. RODI units don’t have to be that expensive. You could also buy distilled water for that size tank. I think you’ll have much less worry long term if you make the switch now.

Yes, that’s correct. I was advised to go with tap water but to water conditioner and add the salt as needed. If this is not the route to go I will gladly make the change. Now, I’ve also heard from previous fish stores I’ve been too say that Nitrates and Nitrites are bad for fish and could cause death, is this not true? For all I know personally, the place could’ve just been trying to get me to spend more. Just heard different things and would rather get the correct advise. But if they’re nothing to worry about then I’ll take it. The live rocks are what I’ve been told are in an algae bloom state? Turning green slowly, or is this where the ammonia sticks at?

I do appreciate you for the advise so far though! I’ve done aquariums with fresh water mainly up until I moved a couple years ago, just getting the time and have the room to do it.

any starter fish recommended for this size tank, been told a tang is a no go, which I’m completely fine with, would rather have a much bigger tank and some more experience with saltwater.

 

[Seansea]

What kind of tank is this gonna be? Fish only with fake decor? Mostly fish with easy softies? Fullreef? Changes how you will want to do things

As far as cycling throw in some fritzs turbo start and that ammonia will drop overnight and you can add a couple fish. No matter what kind of tank you will want ammonia zero.

 

[LordofCinder]

your water changes are slowing everything down, no need to do water changes during the cycle. Just let the tank do its thing, ammonia and nitrite will drop and nitrate will raise. When that happens, then its time for a first water change, then add first fish.

It should take 3-4 weeks to complete a cycle

As mentioned above, you are already walking down the wrong path by using tap water. Look into investing in a rodi unit, thats the proper way.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Do not assume the Prime will reduce the toxicity of ammonia, despite manufacturer claims it does. 0.5 ppm may just be test error, but many people see the API ammonia drop at least a bit more before stopping worrying about ammonia.

 

[glb]

Yes, that’s correct. I was advised to go with tap water but to water conditioner and add the salt as needed. If this is not the route to go I will gladly make the change. Now, I’ve also heard from previous fish stores I’ve been too say that Nitrates and Nitrites are bad for fish and could cause death, is this not true? For all I know personally, the place could’ve just been trying to get me to spend more. Just heard different things and would rather get the correct advise. But if they’re nothing to worry about then I’ll take it. The live rocks are what I’ve been told are in an algae bloom state? Turning green slowly, or is this where the ammonia sticks at?

I do appreciate you for the advise so far though! I’ve done aquariums with fresh water mainly up until I moved a couple years ago, just getting the time and have the room to do it.

any starter fish recommended for this size tank, been told a tang is a no go, which I’m completely fine with, would rather have a much bigger tank and some more experience with saltwater.

I honestly would wait until you can use RODI water. It will save you a lot of grief over time. Tap water has too much other stuff in it that can cause problems. As far as nitrites and nitrates, your tank isn’t fully cycled until your nitrites are 0. Fish can tolerate way more nitrates than coral, but I’d still keep them between 10-20 for a fish only tank. For a coral tank, soft coral and LPS can tolerate more nitrates (10 IME) but SPS corals need nitrates in the 5 or below range, probably more like 2-3. You also don’t want 0 nitrates, because than can cause all sorts of problems too, like cyano. Hope this helps!

 

[Mark Goode]

Does your local water company use chloramine as a residual disinfectant? If so, it's possible that your tap water conditioner is breaking down chloramine to chlorine and ammonia, and then only removing the chlorine.

 

[Sebastiancrab]

Sounds like you are getting some bad advice. Check out the Bulk Reef Supply videos on Youtube on all things reefing. Watch the video on purchasing an RODI because you may need more than the standard filters depending on your local water supplier.