Is it safe to use rodi water that has 3 tds? My rodi unit needs new filters but i have about 45gallons of rodi water that has 3tds i feel bad dumping it but dont want to use it if it'll cause problems.
If you are measuring TDS out of the container, I wouldn’t worry. If you are getting measurable tds from your rodi unit, I would fix that and maybe make more water.
I'm getting the reading from my rodi unit, ordered new filters but i have 40 gallons of water with 3tds.
Not sure if its safe to use.
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Likely it's just fine. We all strive to hit 0 TDS because it's one of the few things we can fully control and ensures best possible starting place. If you have dip strips (I keep just for RODI - use traditional titrations for tank) check it. It could be caused by something you don't want to add 3 ppm of to your system (phosphates, ammonia, etc).
Also, if you have a super sensitive system (high end, high price SPS) I would dump and start over. Last thing you want is see a bit of polyp retraction and think (agh...just hurt my tank and it's that danged 3 ppm TDS).
If you have LPS/Softie...meh. Not much of a worry.
Also, if you have a super sensitive system (high end, high price SPS) I would dump and start over. Last thing you want is see a bit of polyp retraction and think (agh...just hurt my tank and it's that danged 3 ppm TDS).
If you have LPS/Softie...meh. Not much of a worry.
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No way to know what those 3 tds are. Could be copper, dissolved minerals, salts, ammonia or literally anything else.
Pump it into the washing machine for clothes if you don't want to completely waste it.
Pump it into the washing machine for clothes if you don't want to completely waste it.
Its for a nano tank, and due for a water change. Can i buy1 gallon jugs of rodi water from a grocery store and use it to make saltwater? If so any good brand?
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Grocery won't have RODI, it's pretty specific to aquariums, industrial or science applications. Best they'll have is RO only, or demineralized. The 3TDS water you have is probably a better option than that. You'd be better off waiting a day or two until you get the filters.
More risk in using unknown water than there is doing a water change a couple days late.
More risk in using unknown water than there is doing a water change a couple days late.
You can use distilled water. I use the arrowhead brand and it’s 0TDS.
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Nice, I've never seen one in a store. So the question is, how much do you trust Walmart...
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So obviously this is choice between impacts to tank. A lot of nano tanks use WC as primary export of nutrients. If that's the case and your nutrients are getting where you're uncomfortable or there's a bigger problem- then use the 3 ppm.
Use your water over buying. If you just had a resin burn out issue and only ended up with 3 ppm it's likely better than anything you're going to buy in my opinion and hearing from others on here who ended up adding 20 ppm phosphates from LFS water.
If your tank can wait, then wait to make more. Obviously this thread shows you have concerns. If you're not comfortable now...you won't be adding it because we say it's ok.
Personally, I wouldn’t use it. If it were me, I’d order new filters, and replace them. Even if it takes a week or two because of shipping, I’d rather be behind on a water change than to knowingly put water in the tank over 0 TDS.
It might be fine using 3 TDS water, but is it worth the risk? You would regret it if coral start dying.
It might be fine using 3 TDS water, but is it worth the risk? You would regret it if coral start dying.
People risk putting new fish into the display tank without quarantining all the time. Certainly not worth the risk, but people do it. And the potential damage is far greater than anything a person may experience by using RODI @ 3 TDS.
I would like to spin-off from the OP's question: I just built a brand new mixing station using nice Norweco containers. I cleaned both as thoroughly as I could with bleach and then rinsing them a half dozen times or so with tap water.
I may have jumped the gun and started circulating RODI water through the PVC before the cement was totally cured. TDS on the clean side is 0.2ppm, so I'm not worried about it. I was testing the circulation system and only waited about an hour between glueing the last few joints and running water through the system. TDS on the side that I circulated water through (pulled from the 0.2ppm side) is 3.4ppm.
There is no oder to the water, however when I sample it there are very fine microbubbles that form and will stay on the surface. I'm concerned I've got 65gallons of fresh RODI on my hands and don't want to dump it all, but I'm also getting ready for a business trip in two days where I'll be gone for a week and certainly don't want a nasty bacterial bloom (if that's what these microbubbles are).
Any guidance out there?
I may have jumped the gun and started circulating RODI water through the PVC before the cement was totally cured. TDS on the clean side is 0.2ppm, so I'm not worried about it. I was testing the circulation system and only waited about an hour between glueing the last few joints and running water through the system. TDS on the side that I circulated water through (pulled from the 0.2ppm side) is 3.4ppm.
There is no oder to the water, however when I sample it there are very fine microbubbles that form and will stay on the surface. I'm concerned I've got 65gallons of fresh RODI on my hands and don't want to dump it all, but I'm also getting ready for a business trip in two days where I'll be gone for a week and certainly don't want a nasty bacterial bloom (if that's what these microbubbles are).
Any guidance out there?
I agree completely. I’m looking at it from the perspective that there are ways to mitigate the risk, and if the mitigation is something you can do pretty easily then why not do it?
Part of what makes this hobby fun and challenging is trying problem solve. If you use 0 TDS water, and then something goes wrong and your corals become stressed, you can eliminate the RODI water as a variable.
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