So I've finished putting together my RO/DI prep. area. My question is this: Does the container that the water collects in have to be air tight to maintain RO/DI quality?
RO water quality question
- Thread starter Raptor72
- Start date
- Tagged users None
OP
OP
Why keep the water moving?
Im going to do an auto water changer with the apex once the parts for my break out boxes arrive, so basically what I learned is to keep flow in the saltwater and always use lids. Try to avoid pumps in the freshwater, they can cause waves, which move the float valve up and down and cause tds creep as the ro unit rapidly switches.
It does not have to be sealed, just so it does not get dust in it. I don't have pumps or heaters in it until I mix it with salt in a seperate container.
I have tried storing new saltwater many times but it ends up stinking before long so I only store RO/DI long term and make up the NSW when I need it.
Float valves are a PITA, I use float switches and a solenoid so TDS creep is not an issue. I can draw my storage down 11 gallons before my RO/DI kicks on to replenish what has been used.
I have tried storing new saltwater many times but it ends up stinking before long so I only store RO/DI long term and make up the NSW when I need it.
Float valves are a PITA, I use float switches and a solenoid so TDS creep is not an issue. I can draw my storage down 11 gallons before my RO/DI kicks on to replenish what has been used.
mfinn
likes zoanthids
NaplesAquatics
Community Member
This kind of switch:
AutoTopoff.com
Using this type of valve:
AutoTopoff.com
There are others, eBay, etc. to compare.
Jeff
AutoTopoff.com
Using this type of valve:
AutoTopoff.com
There are others, eBay, etc. to compare.
Jeff
Thats one kind but I like the heavy duty float switches better.
My switches and solenoid valve are the ones included in this kit:
Solenoid Valve Controller by SpectraPure
They are installed in the side of a Rubbermaid 23 gallon recycling can 12" apart which works out to 11 gallons of water the level has to drop before the RO/DI cycles on again.
TDS creep is more pronounced when a membrane starts and stops frequently caused by things like a float valve which has a limited travel or small drinking water bladder or pressure tanks which refill after not more than a pint or two of water is drawn. Every time a RO membrane shuts off, the tap water on the untreated side osmoses or is attracted to the treated side, even though it is not under pressure,start/stop frequency you reduce the amount of TDS in the treated water, you know the old adage, "The solution to pollution is dilution", well it applies here. Its easy to hide an occasional burst of TDS but much harder to hide or account for multiple shots of high TDS so your DI wears out faster in a RO/DI and/or your stored RO water gains TDS back. Some inefficient DI cartridges or little horizontal DI filters also cannot handle flows like that so miss most of the TDS passing it right through.
My switches and solenoid valve are the ones included in this kit:
Solenoid Valve Controller by SpectraPure
They are installed in the side of a Rubbermaid 23 gallon recycling can 12" apart which works out to 11 gallons of water the level has to drop before the RO/DI cycles on again.
mfinn
likes zoanthids
Thats one kind but I like the heavy duty float switches better.
My switches and solenoid valve are the ones included in this kit:
Solenoid Valve Controller by SpectraPure
They are installed in the side of a Rubbermaid 23 gallon recycling can 12" apart which works out to 11 gallons of water the level has to drop before the RO/DI cycles on again.
TDS creep is more pronounced when a membrane starts and stops frequently caused by things like a float valve which has a limited travel or small drinking water bladder or pressure tanks which refill after not more than a pint or two of water is drawn. Every time a RO membrane shuts off, the tap water on the untreated side osmoses or is attracted to the treated side, even though it is not under pressure,start/stop frequency you reduce the amount of TDS in the treated water, you know the old adage, "The solution to pollution is dilution", well it applies here. Its easy to hide an occasional burst of TDS but much harder to hide or account for multiple shots of high TDS so your DI wears out faster in a RO/DI and/or your stored RO water gains TDS back. Some inefficient DI cartridges or little horizontal DI filters also cannot handle flows like that so miss most of the TDS passing it right through.
That looks as if it is the answer, but at the cost of another ro/di unit, there has to be something cheaper, but work just as well.
Jonathan
Community Member
For the auto top off do you need a ro system. the auto top off did not say anthing about attaching any pipes or hoses . i am very confused about this product. The website www.autotopoff.com
You could install an ATO in a bucket, trashcan or empty aquarium and fill it with purchased water then add more as it top up the display and the ATO level drops.
The ATO is a way to maintain a fairly constant level in the display by taking stored fresh water from another container or RO/DI system. For a small tank not using a RO/DI would work PK but for larger systems with 3-5 GPD or higher evaporation rates it would be as much a PITA to have to add water to the ATO reservoir as it would the display although it would keep the display level more consistent.
The ATO is a way to maintain a fairly constant level in the display by taking stored fresh water from another container or RO/DI system. For a small tank not using a RO/DI would work PK but for larger systems with 3-5 GPD or higher evaporation rates it would be as much a PITA to have to add water to the ATO reservoir as it would the display although it would keep the display level more consistent.
Auto Top Off.
I would. My 100G, when I had metal halide lighting which has been replaced with LEDs now, would evaporate 3 to 6 gallons every other day depending on the time of the year, house temperature and humidity level and what spped I had my cooling fans running at. I keep the tank between 78-80 year round so in summer months it would evaporate a bunch. Adding to the sump became a real chore so I installed an ATO system and it takes care of itself now. My life is so much easier and I don't worry about being away from home for more than a day and depending on someone to add water to the tank.
Similar threads
