Refugium schedule for algae bloom

[kweigum]

so I am having a turf algae problem in my dt …. I run my fuge light at night to offset ph drop( don’t really test ph as I haven’t found a reliable way of doing so, recommendations?).have a Hanna colorimeter and just too many variables change the outcome… just like to keep things as stable as possible and I know running it opposite does this….

Anyway my question is I would like to run it during the day when my turf is trying to uptake nutrients the most. If you think that will help at all?

1)Curious if I should lower the intensity a bit and run it 24/7

2) keep it only running opposite ?

3) run it same as my DT and just live with the slight ph drop from lack of photosynthesis? ( would imagine this happens in nature as well?)

tank info.. 150 gallon dt 25 gallon sump with a small fuge section
Fuge light is ai prime fuge running at 60% on all channels and am getting crazy chaeto growth. Toss about a basketball’s worth out every week…
NO3 is about 2.5 now. Was around 15 before the turf
Po4 is .04-.08 now. was around .2 before the turf ( running gfo now to try and deplete it a bit as I’m sure it’s only in the lower numbers from the problem in my DT( its a mess but manual removal seems to be slowly getting it in the right direction
Also reduced white lifting in the tank from 60% to about 15 at its peak now( drives me nuts as I can’t see the vibrancy of my fish. Coral sure looks awesome though

Actually my first fish tank so learning as I go! Love it but sure tests my patience at times and I don’t have a ton

 

[DarthChaos]

"What is known as "Green Turf Algae" in the hobby is really a generic name given to hundreds of different species of macroalgae that describe certain similar characteristics. They are coarse, wiry, and generally have thicker wider blades than Green Hair Algae. They may or may not have a mat like root structure, sometimes they just seem to sprout from the rock.

Turf algae that sprouts directly from the rock can be a pain to control, as it is difficult if not impossible to pluck it all. Once discovered it should be treated outside of the aquarium, perhaps by dipping the affected rock or frag in water treated with an algaecide.Turf algae that grows with a "root" mat can be peeled by pushing down on the algae as you scrape your thumb against the rock dislodging it in one swoop. Let it get big enough so you have leverage. The 3reef member who removed this piece did it perfectly.

Clean up Crew members that will eat Green Turf Algae include inverts with considerable cutting power like urchins, chitons, and emerald crabs."

Chances are...you won't starve it out. Your best bet - is to get CuC to eat it.

My biggest concern....would be running your refugium 24/7 - is gonna starve out the tank & not necessarily effect the turf algea, long term. You are just gonna walk into new issues (dinos) and starving corals. Your nutrients are already low.

 

[kweigum]

"What is known as "Green Turf Algae" in the hobby is really a generic name given to hundreds of different species of macroalgae that describe certain similar characteristics. They are coarse, wiry, and generally have thicker wider blades than Green Hair Algae. They may or may not have a mat like root structure, sometimes they just seem to sprout from the rock.

Turf algae that sprouts directly from the rock can be a pain to control, as it is difficult if not impossible to pluck it all. Once discovered it should be treated outside of the aquarium, perhaps by dipping the affected rock or frag in water treated with an algaecide.Turf algae that grows with a "root" mat can be peeled by pushing down on the algae as you scrape your thumb against the rock dislodging it in one swoop. Let it get big enough so you have leverage. The 3reef member who removed this piece did it perfectly.

Clean up Crew members that will eat Green Turf Algae include inverts with considerable cutting power like urchins, chitons, and emerald crabs."

Chances are...you won't starve it out. Your best bet - is to get CuC to eat it.

Removing the rock isn’t really an option because I thought it was gha to begin with so just started doing in tank removal. It spread onto about everything and it is the type the sprouts directly from the rock. Started using a syphon into a 5 micron filter sock and am slowly clearing up spots. How many urchins do you think my system could handle? Just don’t want them to starve later. Have 2 small pin cushions 3 tuxedos, and a pencil. 2 fuzzy chitons and only 1 emerald at the moment.

you don’t think the refugium timing would have anything to offer at all?

 

[DarthChaos]

Removing the rock isn’t really an option because I thought it was gha to begin with so just started doing in tank removal. It spread onto about everything and it is the type the sprouts directly from the rock. Started using a syphon into a 5 micron filter sock and am slowly clearing up spots. How many urchins do you think my system could handle? Just don’t want them to starve later. Have 2 small pin cushions 3 tuxedos, and a pencil. 2 fuzzy chitons and only 1 emerald at the moment.

you don’t think the refugium timing would have anything to offer at all?

Ya - it's gonna be pretty hard to get out. Turf algea...is a nightmare.

Have you noticed the inverts showing any interest in it?

I mean - I'd try running my refugium 24/7....see what happens. I do it, when my levels are high. I'd watch my nutrients very closely - again, you don't wanna walk from one issue...into another.

 

[kweigum]

Ya - it's gonna be pretty hard to get out. Turf algea...is a nightmare.

Have you noticed the inverts showing any interest in it?

I mean - I'd try running my refugium 24/7....see what happens. I do it, when my levels are high. I'd watch my nutrients very closely - again, you don't wanna walk from one issue...into another.

I have been testing every day! Sometimes a couple. I’ve had Dino’s and definitely don’t want them again. I’m thinking it’s kind of just a false number ( understand I can still get Dino’s if low) but lps and softies actually look amazing so think they’re still getting food) When I thoroughly clean an area I put a bunch of cuc on that area and it seems to really help. Just got a new yellow tang a couple days ago. He’s super small so doesn’t really eat a lot yet. Starry blenny and mag foxface won’t touch it unless a patch is dying. Had a bit of Bryopsis and used Fluconazole and it took care of that in about 4 days and definitely slowed the growth of the turf but started gettin some tissue loss on one of my acros so I stopped as I didn’t want any more coral loss. Was using my reef delete and it’ll turn it grey for a couple days and stuff eats it then but it just comes back. And just feel that might be killing the beneficial bacteria around it making it spread farther.
Also dosing bacteria and have my uv shut off since yesterday trying to get something to compete with it

Do you think it’s hurt anything just running the fuge while DT lights are on and off at night? Not wanting to deplete nutrients. Just trying to get my chaeto to uptake them the same time the turf would

 

[DarthChaos]

I have been testing every day! Sometimes a couple. I’ve had Dino’s and definitely don’t want them again. I’m thinking it’s kind of just a false number ( understand I can still get Dino’s if low) but lps and softies actually look amazing so think they’re still getting food) When I thoroughly clean an area I put a bunch of cuc on that area and it seems to really help. Just got a new yellow tang a couple days ago. He’s super small so doesn’t really eat a lot yet. Starry blenny and mag foxface won’t touch it unless a patch is dying. Had a bit of Bryopsis and used Fluconazole and it took care of that in about 4 days and definitely slowed the growth of the turf but started gettin some tissue loss on one of my acros so I stopped as I didn’t want any more coral loss. Was using my reef delete and it’ll turn it grey for a couple days and stuff eats it then but it just comes back. And just feel that might be killing the beneficial bacteria around it making it spread farther.
Also dosing bacteria and have my uv shut off since yesterday trying to get something to compete with it

Do you think it’s hurt anything just running the fuge while DT lights are on and off at night? Not wanting to deplete nutrients. Just trying to get my chaeto to uptake them the same time the turf would

Algea need nutrients to thrive. This we know. Now, in theory - if the chaeto consumes the nutrients faster...it should starve out the algea.

The biggest issue is simply....starving out the algea = starving out your corals. I'm not sure if Turf algea works like GHA (where it hides true numbers from you) - but if we assume it does, then you should have some wiggle room.

I run my refugium - simple based on my nutrient levels. I use it as a nutrient controller....nutrients too high - light stays on. Too low - light doesn't come on as long. This usually is enough to swing the balance of nutrients.

Manual removal - CUC - even fish (tangs and other herbivores), seem to be the best way to fight it off.

Since Turf algea roots - there's a chance that you could starve it out....for now and just have to come right back, as soon as nutrients hit when favorable level. I think if it like grass....even if you kill grass at the ground level - the roots are still very much alive.

Sadly....Turf algea isn't something fun to deal with.

 

[kweigum]

Algea need nutrients to thrive. This we know. Now, in theory - if the chaeto consumes the nutrients faster...it should starve out the algea.

The biggest issue is simply....starving out the algea = starving out your corals. I'm not sure if Turf algea works like GHA (where it hides true numbers from you) - but if we assume it does, then you should have some wiggle room.

I run my refugium - simple based on my nutrient levels. I use it as a nutrient controller....nutrients too high - light stays on. Too low - light doesn't come on as long. This usually is enough to swing the balance of nutrients.

Manual removal - CUC - even fish (tangs and other herbivores), seem to be the best way to fight it off.

Since Turf algea roots - there's a chance that you could starve it out....for now and just have to come right back, as soon as nutrients hit when favorable level. I think if it like grass....even if you kill grass at the ground level - the roots are still very much alive.

Sadly....Turf algea isn't something fun to deal with.

Definitely not but part of the game!!! Maybe just keep stuff as stable as possible and keep plugging away on removal then. I just started with gfo too to help suck up some phosphate. But maybe I should toss that for now too as I clearly have an awesome phosphate remover growing all over my tank. Just scared it will spread worse with excessive phosphate. If I had Dino’s and this it’d be a nightmare. I have been dosing a bit of nitrate to keep that up. Haven’t had to do anything with PO4 yet