Red Ogo macroaglae question

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Matt Bravo

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Hey guys so I’m a little ways into the diatom stage (I got lucky I got a conch and few other snails early that keep my sand clean)
But my nitrates are really higher than I’d prefer (40ppm API test kit) they get all the way up to 60 by the weekend and I’m forced to do a 20 and 40% WC in order to bring them down to about 20. I have a 10 gallon that is about 2.5 months old and I was wondering if red ogo (macroalgae from algaebarn) would help me control these nitrates. Do the macros really make such. Big difference or do you have to add a crazy amount for there to be a change in nutrients? the only problem I see is that they would be going into my display tank since I don’t have a refugium to stick them in would the macro be ok in the display? Thanks!
 
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Matt Bravo

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I’m not quite sure what it is you mean by “securing” do you mean any algae eaters like tangs? If so that shouldn’t be a problem since I have only a royal gramma and a clownfish, I do have a clean up crew though. Could that be an issue? (Tiger conch, nassarius,turbo and 2 bumble bees) I was asking if you maybe had any experience with red ogo or if you’ve seen a video that gives some more info on it thanks
 

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If so that shouldn’t be a problem since I have only a royal gramma and a clownfish, I do have a clean up crew though. Could that be an issue? (Tiger conch, nassarius,turbo and 2 bumble bees) I was asking if you maybe had any experience with red ogo or if you’ve seen a video that gives some more info on it thanks
All of these are safe with macroalgae with the possible exception of the Turbo snails if you have Turbo fluctuosa (Mexican turbo).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gracilaria_parvispora
I’m not quite sure what it is you mean by “securing”
I think the difficult part may be securing it.
@Spare time is probably referring to anchoring the macroalgae. Red macroalgae like red ogo (@AlgaeBarn ’s red ogo is Gracilaria parvispora) can be attached to rockwork/frag plugs with Cyanoacrylate gel, rubber bands, fishing line, or simply cramming it into crevices. Once in place, it should eventually be able form a holdfast and anchor itself. Some fleshy green macroalgae like sea lettuce (Ulva) will die back when glued.
Do the macros really make such. Big difference or do you have to add a crazy amount for there to be a change in nutrients?
I don’t remember the details very well since it happened so long ago, but a handful of Ulva was able to drop my nitrates to “safe levels” in under a week after my tank cycled. Note that green macroalgae like Ulva and Chaetomorpha grow faster than Gracilaria and are generally said to be superior at nutrient export.
https://www.marineplantbook.com/
 
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I don't have red ogo, but I have other red macros in my tank & in my fuge.

By securing we mean that it doesn't always stay put. You can put some in the sand, but your CUC or flow might dislodge it. You can put it between your rock work. Some species will cling and attach themselves others won't.

Loose strands get caught in my power head, and that's how I harvest it for nutrient export.
 
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All of these are safe with macroalgae with the possible exception of the Turbo snails if you have Turbo fluctuosa (Mexican turbo).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gracilaria_parvispora


@Spare time is probably referring to anchoring the macroalgae. Red macroalgae like red ogo (@AlgaeBarn ’s red ogo is Gracilaria parvispora) can be attached to rockwork/frag plugs with Cyanoacrylate gel, rubber bands, fishing line, or simply cramming it into crevices. Once in place, it should eventually be able form a holdfast and anchor itself. Some fleshy green macroalgae like sea lettuce (Ulva) will die back when glued.

I don’t remember the details very well since it happened so long ago, but a handful of Ulva was able to drop my nitrates to “safe levels” in under a week after my tank cycled. Note that green macroalgae like Ulva and Chaetomorpha grow faster than Gracilaria and are generally said to be superior at nutrient export.
https://www.marineplantbook.com/
So would we lettuce be a more effective alternative than red ogo? And how do you go of placing sea lettuce in display tank? I don’t have a sump so unfortunately it’s not an option for me to place it a refugium but can I place it in a display and how would I go of placing it? (Thanks for the video btw I appreciate all the info)
 
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I don't have red ogo, but I have other red macros in my tank & in my fuge.

By securing we mean that it doesn't always stay put. You can put some in the sand, but your CUC or flow might dislodge it. You can put it between your rock work. Some species will cling and attach themselves others won't.

Loose strands get caught in my power head, and that's how I harvest it for nutrient export.
Oh I see so how effective do you find your red macro to be in export of nutrients and do you have to own an extreme amount in order for the nutrients to begin declining or can a small amount (like 20-40$ packs) off algae barn get the job done?
 
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So would we lettuce be a more effective alternative than red ogo? And how do you go of placing sea lettuce in display tank? I don’t have a sump so unfortunately it’s not an option for me to place it a refugium but can I place it in a display and how would I go of placing it? (Thanks for the video btw I appreciate all the info)
Sea lettuce (Ulva) is one of the more delicate and palatable macroalgae, though animals that consume it would probably not be safe with other macroalgae (though I would be cautious of keeping it with hermit crabs). As mentioned earlier, you could use rubber bands, fishing line, or simply cram it into crevices to anchor it and it will develop a holdfast over time, though it's usually found floating in the wild. One user on Nano-Reef had the idea of attaching sea lettuce to a suction cup by treading fishing line through the thalli:
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/279382-grs-12g-long-macro-reef/ (see the 8th post from the bottom)
 

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I have a 75 gallon, lightly stocked tank that has been running for about 5 months. I started with dry rock, live sand and MB7. I added the small portion of cheato, & 2-3 kinds of red macro alage. I also purchased some Halimeda, which is more decorative than known for its nutritional exporting ability.

My N03 & PO4 have always been low and recently reached zero. I'm now working on ways to increase my levels.

My cheato has grown the least. I'm not too concerned about it because the others are growing, albeit slowly. Years ago I had a tank with calpuera and it grew really fast. I expect it my nutrients were higher they would grow faster. I'm planning on to add more fish in the near term.


I believe the alage will definitely help lower your nutrients.

I have sea lettuce in my sump and it just floats around.
 

EliVChalk97

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Sea lettuce is awesome for quick nutrient export. Since it does not enjoy being glued or tied down, I use a small breeder box to keep it from floating around the tank, but remain in the light as needed. If it does well, I have seen growths of Ulva pop up on my rock work over time.
The red pom pom does great and looks great on display. Honestly it sounds like your creatures wouldn't demolish it quick enough but would make good food variety for them too. My red pom pom grew so fast that in a month I sold a sandwich baggy to another reefer and still had enough to display and sap up nutrients:)
 
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The red pom pom does great and looks great on display. Honestly it sounds like your creatures wouldn't demolish it quick enough but would make good food variety for them too. My red pom pom grew so fast that in a month I sold a sandwich baggy to another reefer and still had enough to display and sap up nutrients:)
Did you mean red ogo (Gracilaria parvispora)? Pom pom (Gracilaria hayi) is a slower growing, slightly calcified species that is not very palatable.

G. parvispora:
1668625185080.png


G. hayi:
1668625227208.png
 
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