Pump recommendations.

[geko522]

I recently purchased the icecap 27 Watt High Output UV Sterilizer.

I do have a manifold, but was told not to use a uv sterilizer on a manifold. I have two sicce 6.0 return pumps and thought I could use the manifold for the uv sterilizer.

If I can't, then what recommendations do you have for a DC return pump that can go from 110gph to 550gph?

Thank you for the help!

 

[landlubber]

I recently purchased the icecap 27 Watt High Output UV Sterilizer.

I do have a manifold, but was told not to use a uv sterilizer on a manifold. I have two sicce 6.0 return pumps and thought I could use the manifold for the uv sterilizer.

If I can't, then what recommendations do you have for a DC return pump that can go from 110gph to 550gph?

Thank you for the help!

while i don't have a specific pump in mind for you i do have a recommendation... rather than searching for pumps with the specific flow requirement you need add a value to the inlet side of the UV Sterilizer and use it to throttle the amount of flow you need. This opens the opportunity to use a small AC pumps that cost a fraction of the cost of a DC return pump.

 

[kvansloo]

What are you trying to accomplish with the UV filter.

Efficiency and Flow Rate​

Model	IceCap 27W	IceCap 40W	IceCap 90W
Bacteria & Algae	480gph	940gph	1890gph
Parasites	160gph	300gph	630gph
Aquarium Size	160gal	300gal	630gal

The sweet spot for reducing bacteria and algae using a UV system is to have the water flow through at a rate of 3 to 4.5 times the total tank volume every hour. So, if you're working with a 50-gallon tank, you want the water to move at a pace of 150 to 225 gallons per hour through the UV sterilizer.

Now, when you're dealing with Ich, Flukes, and other fish parasites, things get a bit more complicated. You will need to slow down the water flow through the UV sterilizer to eradicate them as they pass through. To obtain results decrease the flow by as much as 50-75% compared to what you would use to tackle bacteria and algae. Ideally, you're looking at a turnover rate of 0.5 to 1.5 times the total tank volume per hour. For a 50-gallon tank, that translates to having 25 to 75 gallons per hour passing through the UV sterilizer to effectively wipe out those parasites.

 

[geko522]

What are you trying to accomplish with the UV filter.

Efficiency and Flow Rate​

Model	IceCap 27W	IceCap 40W	IceCap 90W
Bacteria & Algae	480gph	940gph	1890gph
Parasites	160gph	300gph	630gph
Aquarium Size	160gal	300gal	630gal

The sweet spot for reducing bacteria and algae using a UV system is to have the water flow through at a rate of 3 to 4.5 times the total tank volume every hour. So, if you're working with a 50-gallon tank, you want the water to move at a pace of 150 to 225 gallons per hour through the UV sterilizer.

Now, when you're dealing with Ich, Flukes, and other fish parasites, things get a bit more complicated. You will need to slow down the water flow through the UV sterilizer to eradicate them as they pass through. To obtain results decrease the flow by as much as 50-75% compared to what you would use to tackle bacteria and algae. Ideally, you're looking at a turnover rate of 0.5 to 1.5 times the total tank volume per hour. For a 50-gallon tank, that translates to having 25 to 75 gallons per hour passing through the UV sterilizer to effectively wipe out those parasites.

I understand this. I want to be able to accomplish everything when needed by adjusting the flow rate for a particular issue that comes up. I don't have the luxury to have two uv sterilizer at the moment, so by adjusting the flow rate will have to do for the time being. If I had to pick what I wanted to accomplish for the moment it would be algae since I QT all my fish and inverts.

 

[kvansloo]

Sicce makes good pumps but the 6.0 would be too big in my opinion.
Check this one out https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-2-0-pump-568-gph.html
and install a gate valve or ball valve for flow control.

 

[landlubber]

I understand this. I want to be able to accomplish everything when needed by adjusting the flow rate for a particular issue that comes up. I don't have the luxury to have two uv sterilizer at the moment, so by adjusting the flow rate will have to do for the time being. If I had to pick what I wanted to accomplish for the moment it would be algae since I QT all my fish and inverts.

I think he's just posting the flowrates to assist with potential issues you might be experiencing. People that are running 2 UV's have either massive tanks or cost is of no concern.
Truthfully while a UV is nice its not as impactful as many make it out to be. I've taken mine offline as the quartz bulbs aren't cheap and while i didn't suffer issues while i had it 2 years later i still haven't had any.
A lot can be accomplished by buying stock from a reputable fish store, QT'ing what you buy and adhering to a strict dipping process for corals.

 

[geko522]

I think he's just posting the flowrates to assist with potential issues you might be experiencing. People that are running 2 UV's have either massive tanks or cost is of no concern.
Truthfully while a UV is nice its not as impactful as many make it out to be. I've taken mine offline as the quartz bulbs aren't cheap and while i didn't suffer issues while i had it 2 years later i still haven't had any.
A lot can be accomplished by buying stock from a reputable fish store, QT'ing what you buy and adhering to a strict dipping process for corals.

Thanks for the feed back. Can i ask what strict dipping process for corals you follow? I do QT all my fish now.

 

[landlubber]

Thanks for the feed back. Can i ask what strict dipping process for corals you follow? I do QT all my fish now.

Of course!
So around 2020 my lfs made a move to quarantine all corals and fish as they arrive and hold off on selling until they cleared the process. That itself has helped greatly.
Personally though, while its tough to accept in the case of encrusted plugs I make a point of clipping frag plugs off. Many pests come attached to plugs and from there I dip using Bayer insecticide.
I live in Canada and its not sold here so i'm not sure what the plan is when it runs out. Revive is better than nothing but i didn't find it worked as well.

 

[geko522]

Of course!
So around 2020 my lfs made a move to quarantine all corals and fish as they arrive and hold off on selling until they cleared the process. That itself has helped greatly.
Personally though, while its tough to accept in the case of encrusted plugs I make a point of clipping frag plugs off. Many pests come attached to plugs and from there I dip using Bayer insecticide.
I live in Canada and its not sold here so i'm not sure what the plan is when it runs out. Revive is better than nothing but i didn't find it worked as well.

I was watching a YouTube video from @Tidal Gardens about dipping procedures. I remember something about not using this stuff but don't remember why. It's be a bit since I watched it. I don't think it's called Bayer anymore either. Think they have a new name i believe.

 

[geko522]

Sicce makes good pumps but the 6.0 would be too big in my opinion.
Check this one out https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-2-0-pump-568-gph.html
and install a gate valve or ball valve for flow control.

How do I know what the flow rate is with a ball valve. Also I am using two of the 6.0 as a return pumps on my system. One return pump is from the sump to the display and the other is from the sump to the display with a 3 port manifold. I was going to hook the inlet side of the UV Sterilizer on the manifold and have the output side plumbed to the display tank controlling the flow with a ball valve on the manifold. If this doesn't work, I'll just get a DC return pump and work it that way from the sumps return chamber.

 

[geko522]

while i don't have a specific pump in mind for you i do have a recommendation... rather than searching for pumps with the specific flow requirement you need add a value to the inlet side of the UV Sterilizer and use it to throttle the amount of flow you need. This opens the opportunity to use a small AC pumps that cost a fraction of the cost of a DC return pump.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll look into this. Appreciate it!

 

[Tidal Gardens]

I was watching a YouTube video from @Tidal Gardens about dipping procedures. I remember something about not using this stuff but don't remember why. It's be a bit since I watched it. I don't think it's called Bayer anymore either. Think they have a new name i believe.

We do not use it now because of a few reasons.

1) It is a very harmful chemical that we would rather our staff not have to handle.
2) Since it is a very harmful chemical, we believe that no matter how well you rinse it before putting it back into that tank, some of that chemical is still getting into our systems.
3) It mixes like milk and you cannot see what you are doing when dipping.

We now almost entirely use PolypLab Reef Primer. It works great.

 

[kvansloo]

How do I know what the flow rate is with a ball valve. Also I am using two of the 6.0 as a return pumps on my system. One return pump is from the sump to the display and the other is from the sump to the display with a 3 port manifold. I was going to hook the inlet side of the UV Sterilizer on the manifold and have the output side plumbed to the display tank controlling the flow with a ball valve on the manifold. If this doesn't work, I'll just get a DC return pump and work it that way from the sumps return chamber.

You would have to use a flow meter, or test the open position using something graduated so you can see the amount of flow at what position and perform calculations. This would be a close guess but would work.

 

[landlubber]

We do not use it now because of a few reasons.

1) It is a very harmful chemical that we would rather our staff not have to handle.
2) Since it is a very harmful chemical, we believe that no matter how well you rinse it before putting it back into that tank, some of that chemical is still getting into our systems.
3) It mixes like milk and you cannot see what you are doing when dipping.

We now almost entirely use PolypLab Reef Primer. It works great.

I was watching a YouTube video from @Tidal Gardens about dipping procedures. I remember something about not using this stuff but don't remember why. It's be a bit since I watched it. I don't think it's called Bayer anymore either. Think they have a new name i believe.

all this is true as at the end of the day it's poisonous insecticide.
The use of ppe, multiple stages flushing the dipped coral in separate RODI plunges before introducing it to the tank are necessary steps. I use it because the stuff works, whereas i have to question what gets through when i use Revive.
Also, you have to consider the frequency of use between my one coral every few months in comparison to @Tidal Gardens many times daily.

 

[geko522]

We do not use it now because of a few reasons.

1) It is a very harmful chemical that we would rather our staff not have to handle.
2) Since it is a very harmful chemical, we believe that no matter how well you rinse it before putting it back into that tank, some of that chemical is still getting into our systems.
3) It mixes like milk and you cannot see what you are doing when dipping.

We now almost entirely use PolypLab Reef Primer. It works great.

I appreciate your response, this is exactly what I remember you saying in your YouTube video. I was going to use that stuff until I saw that video and then you had me second guessing that.

 

[geko522]

You would have to use a flow meter, or test the open position using something graduated so you can see the amount of flow at what position and perform calculations. This would be a close guess but would work.

Yes, I thought about doing this or installing one of those garden hose flow meters at the outlet side just to get an idea. Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it!

 

[Solo McReefer]

What's wrong with using a manifold for a UV sterilizer?

I don't want to manifold off my return pump

But I also don't want a separate pump for everything that needs water going through it. I don't have the room for that many pumps, for one

 

[Tidal Gardens]

There is nothing wrong with using a manifold to feed your UV. There are always positives and negatives to using a manifold vs. a separate pump. I suggest you do what is best for your tank and budget. However, you should try to always get an accurate reading on the flow no matter what way you choose.

I have my UV set up on my home system feed from a manifold and it works great. If I were to redo my plumbing, I would have an adjustable pump feeding it directly.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I recently purchased the icecap 27 Watt High Output UV Sterilizer.

I do have a manifold, but was told not to use a uv sterilizer on a manifold. I have two sicce 6.0 return pumps and thought I could use the manifold for the uv sterilizer.

If I can't, then what recommendations do you have for a DC return pump that can go from 110gph to 550gph?

Thank you for the help!

Sicce 2.0 or 3.0