PSA - Got a sump? Wrap it up.

snackpack

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Figured I'd share my findings with the class.

I was astounded at how much my heaters were running all day and night, especially considering the amount of pumps and lights adding heat to the tank. Last night I decided to try an experiment that has already shown it's going to pay off quickly.

I had a spare roll of mylar bubble wrap from an attic insulation project that I decided to wrap the sump in, and cover a piece of egg crate with for a lid.

I'll let the attachments speak the rest of the story.

(Don't judge the mess, the fish room is still a work in progress)

IMG_5050.jpeg IMG_5049.jpeg IMG_5038.jpeg
 

mann1139

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Is that a basement sump?

I would also think about insulating the pipes, and maybe have an inline heater at the top of the return line. You don't actually care about the temperature of the water when its in the basement, only when it returns to the tank.
 
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snackpack

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Is that a basement sump?

I would also think about insulating the pipes, and maybe have an inline heater at the top of the return line. You don't actually care about the temperature of the water when its in the basement, only when it returns to the tank.
It is indeed a basement sump. Pipe insulation is likely the next step. I've not seen an inline heater that's been deemed reliable, but I've been considering a titanium heat exchanger plumbed to my heat pump DHW heater. Most likely extreme overkill, but COP on a heat pump being significantly higher than a resistive element, may be worth it.
 

Cell

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During the MN winter, my basement tanks all get insulated one way or another.
 

mann1139

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It would be interesting to measure temperature when it enters the sump, when it exits, and where it re-enters the DT.

That would tell you whether more energy is lost in the pipes or the sump.

Also adding a layer of insulation like a rubber mat under the sump may help. That is the only side that directly conducts heat out.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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That is the only side that directly conducts heat out.

Not sure what that means. Heat is directly transferred to air just as it is directly transferred to concrete or whatever the floor is.
 

mann1139

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Conduction through a solid is usually a much better transfer of heat than through air.

I will admit that my Thermal and Fluids class in college didn't cover glass or acrylic aquariums, but I would expect a lot of heat conducts out through the bottom of that sump since it appears to sit directly on the wood.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Conduction through a solid is usually a much better transfer of heat than through air.

I will admit that my Thermal and Fluids class in college didn't cover glass or acrylic aquariums, but I would expect a lot of heat conducts out through the bottom of that sump since it appears to sit directly on the wood.

I don’t disagree that there is substantial loss through the bottom, depending on what the floor material is. Insulating it is a fine plan. It’s hard to determine how large that is relative to sides and top. The bottom material will warm up a bit toward the water temp since it stays in place while the air will convect away and be replaced by cooler air. As an analogy, in a basement overall, do you lose more heat through the floor, or through a window? I expect the answer is "it depends".

In my case, my Brute cans sat in plastic bins from Home Depot (made for cement mixing I think) to catch leaks and spills.
 

SteveMM62Reef

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I’ve been doing this for several years. Cut Three Pieces for the back of the Aquarium, and attach with Scotch Double Faced tape. Use three, so I can look into the overflow if needed. Also I can see the bottom of one of my Aquariums, so I insulated that. The Foil Bubble Wrap goes on my Sump during the Winter, too. I have ABS Covers for my Overflows, that go on in the Winter.
 

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