Problems / Questions about my cycling tank

[Slidecf]

Hey everyone, how's it going?

So... I'm having some issues and doubts regarding the cycling process of my saltwater tank and I need some help/opinions from you guys. Here it is:
I set up and filled the tank with water on 07/21. At that time, I didn't have the tests to check the water parameters. About 3 days later, to kickstart the cycling process, I decided to add one of those ammonia solutions sold at pharmacies. I was afraid of adding too much and contaminating the tank, so I opted to add 1/3 of a cap (which should be about 0.1 fl oz). I thought it would be a negligible amount considering the tank's size (40 gallon).
I bought the test kits (RedSea Marine Care Kit), which arrived the next day. I did the first tests, and even on that day, the ammonia was far above the maximum limit of the test. At that time, I also added the appropriate amount of Nitribiotic by Tropic Marin based on the tank's size. I tried to test every 3 or 4 days.
However, days passed, and the ammonia was always off the charts... I decided to try adding Special Blend Microbe-Lift to see if it would speed up the process a bit. A few more days passed, and I began to worry that I had contaminated the tank with too much of that ammonia solution. So I decided to do a 15% water change to see if it would bring the levels down a bit. After the water change, the ammonia persisted above the test's maximum limit.
I waited another week, and since I saw no changes, I decided to do a large water change of about 90%. After that, the ammonia, although still high, dropped to 1.2 ppm, and I was satisfied because it allowed me to better understand what was going on. This past week, I noticed something different in the tests... There was a sharp spike in nitrites and nitrates, which had been very low until then. Also, the ammonia is rising again.

Some extra information:

• I gradually increased the lighting intensity. In the first week, it was 10%. Then 30%, 50%, until finally, this past week, I increased it to 100% of the light's power.
• I haven't turned on the skimmer during this whole period.
• I noticed that, over the past week, some foam seems to have started forming in the water as it flows into the sump

(Translation - Temperatura = Temperature in degrees Celsius / Salinidade = Salinity / Amônia = Ammonia / Nitrato = Nitrate / Nitrito = Nitrite)

Here are photos of today’s tests:





A few things have caught my attention and raised questions:

• Should I be worried about anything? Or is this the expected progression?
• How can ammonia still be rising when there’s supposedly no source of ammonia left in the tank?
• It's been nearly a month, and there are practically no signs of algae on the rocks or the glass. Almost any sign of life in the tank. To say there's nothing at all, there seems to be a tiny, almost invisible amount of algae growing in a hidden area far from the light. By this point, shouldn’t the tank show more signs of life and a significant, noticeable amount of algae?
• If there were supposed to be more signs of life by now, but that hasn’t happened, what could be the reason? Could I have used something that's preventing the formation of bacteria or algae?
• When setting up the hardscape, I used a super glue recommended by the store clerk. He said I could use any type (even though the packaging clearly stated it wasn’t safe for aquatic animals). I also used an epoxy that hardens underwater but isn’t specifically made for aquariums (I used it outside the water and only placed it in the tank once it was dry/hardened). Could this be a source of contamination?
• Is it time to turn on the skimmer?
• Should i do another water change by now?
• Could it be that i'm not using enough biological media?

Thank you in advance for your help!

Project Details:
Tank: 40 gallons - 35.4"L x 17.7"W x 14.6"H - Side Sump 5.9"
Filtration/Equipment:

• Filter Floss
• Carbon - Aquaforest
• Biological Media: 2x NanoBlock Oceantech (supposedly treats up to 740 gallons)
• Skimmer: RedStarfish SQ90-Plus (hasn't been turned on since setting up the tank)
• Heater: Oceantech X5 200W
• Lighting: 1x AquaKnight V3 60W
• Salt: Caledonia Coral Salt ReeFlowers
• Test Kit: Marine Care Kit - RedSea
• Bacteria: Nitribiotic (Tropic Marin) / Special Blend Microbe-Lift"

 

[PopBot16]

Sounds like you're on track. NH3 and NO2 are peaking. Once NH3 and NO2 are 0, you're cycled. Test again in a week. For the future, use something like Fritz Ammonia Chloride to ensure your initial ammonia dose is correct (generally recommended to be 2-3 ppm NH3). More ammonia will definitely prolong your cycle.

 

[Slidecf]

Hey everyone... I bring updates!

It seems we are finally making progress. To my delight and peace of mind, the ammonia has finally started to drop... We went from 2 to 0.4ppm. I believe by Sunday the ammonia will hit zero.
It's also noticeable that the nitrite is extremely high... A few weeks ago, after waiting 9 minutes to see the test results, the water would stay almost clear (indicating a value of 0.05). Now, immediately after adding the reagent, the water turns a very intense pink (indicating values probably well above 1).
Additionally, it's now possible to see the formation of brown algae in some parts of the aquarium, like on the glass and rocks.

I believe the big turning point was the 90% water change. The ammonia was probably too high, which stalled the cycling process. After the water change, everything started progressing as expected. My only concern now is whether the cycle could stall again with the nitrite being so high. Is there a risk of that happening, or is it just ammonia that can stop the cycle?

Here are some pictures of my aquarium. Please don't judge the hardscape too harshly! This is my first experience, and this is what I managed to create with my skills and the rocks I had available. At the moment, I’m satisfied with the result, but maybe in the future, I’ll tweak or redo it haha.

 

[Slidecf]

Once again, I bring updates.
The ammonia and nitrite have finally reached zero... I did a nitrate test, and it showed a value close to 10ppm.

Now I have other problems/questions: ​

- I did a dKH test and noticed that it's very low, around 4 or 4.5. The pH is at 8 (or 7.8 - this test is quite difficult to distinguish the colors when it falls below 8). Could the reason for this be that I haven't done a water change since August 11th? Should I do a water change now? What percentage do you recommend?
- I also noticed that the salinity dropped a bit (1.020), which I found very strange because I have a replacement tank with a pump controlled by an optical level sensor.
- How do you guys heat the water for water changes? The water comes out very cold from my tap — around 64°F (18°C). I'm afraid of removing the aquarium heater and cooling the water too much. I also think that with the aquarium heater, it would take too long to warm up the water for the water change... I still haven't figured out the best logistics for this.
- Is the tank ready to add the first fish?

I introduced the first inhabitants to the tank! I bought some hermit crabs and snails (4 of each). Since I have no prior experience, I confess that I was a bit frustrated at first because they stayed still for long periods... I thought something was wrong. Later, I realized they alternate between moments of activity and "naps" haha

I also bought a frag of GSP (Green Star Polyps) to place on one of the rocks. At first, the GSP was quite shy and completely closed up... I thought it would open in a few hours, but time passed, and nothing. The next day, only one or two polyps opened. To make matters worse, one of the hermit crabs climbed on it, and it closed again. Today, five days later, about 60% of it has opened, and it seems to be adapting well

 

[landlubber]

first time advice i'd like to give.... less words will result in more replies. I admittedly did not read the whole thing as its going in a lot of directions.
i'll try to point form answer what i can here....
- your salt mix has a lot to do with your Alk levels. 6-11 dKH works ideally between 7-10dkH give you room for error.
- do not concern yourself with pH. its not as relevant as you might think. Total stability is your main goal.
- you should strongly consider purchasing an RODI filter ahead of any fish/coral or additional equipment. It is an important tool for success. NO TAP WATER.
- get your salinity up to 1.026 or .35 (whichever measurement you like) by replacing your top off water with saltwater instead of RODI. Once it reaches the proper level switch back to RODI.
- water change water should be heated with a separate standard aquarium heater in whatever vessel you use to prepare the water. a powerhead or maintenance pump is also important to help mix it. Do not borrow the one from your tank as eventually you're going to cause yourself grief.
- Do not add any animals or inverts to your tank without confirmation everything is cycled. A stick on ammonia tester is the easiest solution to this. it's a dummy proof way to not fall for the rise and fall of the levels on the way to being cycled.

 

[Slidecf]

first time advice i'd like to give.... less words will result in more replies. I admittedly did not read the whole thing as its going in a lot of directions.
i'll try to point form answer what i can here....
- your salt mix has a lot to do with your Alk levels. 6-11 dKH works ideally between 7-10dkH give you room for error.
- do not concern yourself with pH. its not as relevant as you might think. Total stability is your main goal.
- you should strongly consider purchasing an RODI filter ahead of any fish/coral or additional equipment. It is an important tool for success. NO TAP WATER.
- get your salinity up to 1.026 or .35 (whichever measurement you like) by replacing your top off water with saltwater instead of RODI. Once it reaches the proper level switch back to RODI.
- water change water should be heated with a separate standard aquarium heater in whatever vessel you use to prepare the water. a powerhead or maintenance pump is also important to help mix it. Do not borrow the one from your tank as eventually you're going to cause yourself grief.
- Do not add any animals or inverts to your tank without confirmation everything is cycled. A stick on ammonia tester is the easiest solution to this. it's a dummy proof way to not fall for the rise and fall of the levels on the way to being cycled.

First of all, sorry for the long posts . I was trying to be more detailed because I thought that would help in understanding things better. Also, English is not my native language, so I probably didn’t express myself correctly when I mentioned that the water comes out from my “tap”. I do have an RO/DI filter. I was just trying to say that the water comes out really cold.

Thanks for the other advice.

 

[Fish Fan]

Many of us set up a 'water change station', where you pre mix and heat the saltwater so it's ready for use when you need to do a water change. This could be as simple as a food-grade 5 gallon bucket or Brute trashcan, a powerhead or small circulation pump, and an aquarium heater. Fill your bucket or trashcan with your RODI water, add your salt, turn on your pump and heater. Let it run for some time, then double check your salinity. Try to keep the temperature and salinity of the water in your tank and in your water change bucket the same, this way it's less stress on your livestock when you do a water change. I hope that helps!

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/let’s-see-your-saltwater-mixing-station.948055/

Good luck!