Plumbing on the 125 is done!!!

[Gladfelter]

Finished the plumbing on the 125.

Now I need to water test the plumbing. What's the best way to do this? Dump 5 gallons down the overflow?

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[Keepnitreel]

Fill that sucker up with tap water!
You can't find leaks with 5g of water
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[Rob.D]

Fill that sucker up with tap water!
You can't find leaks with 5g of water
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Agreed, although you need to keep an eye it for leaks as you fill her.

 

[Gladfelter]

Argggh this is gonna suck lol

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[Keepnitreel]

Argggh this is gonna suck lol

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Well, how's the leak test working?

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[Gladfelter]

I get off work tomorrow at 3. I had to redo some of the return system today. And I don't have a check valve installed so I think I'm going to back up and install one too tomorrow. Then I'll fill it up and let her rip

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[CoryC]

use unions, that way you can always take it apart and redo it or whatever you want.

 

[Engloid]

use unions, that way you can always take it apart and redo it or whatever you want.

Yes, definitely...I usually try to use threaded unions. Unions are expensive, so I want to be able to use them down the road when/if I make changes to the setup. Anytime I hook piping to a sump, and space permits, I will put a valve up near the bulkhead, so I can change piping without draining the sump.

Another good tip is DON'T USE ONE OF THOSE CRAPPY FLAPPER CHECK VALVES LIKE THEY SELL AT THE AQUARIUM!! They don't hold up. Imagine this: Two garbage cans half full of water, a pump with check valve in one, pumping to the other... Turn the pump on till all the water is in one tank, and wait. It will only be about an hr until they both are half full of water again. How do I know? Because that's part of my water-making process for water changes. The flapper will "burp" constantly, allowing water to go backwards.

 

[CoryC]

yeah those are spring type that take away from your GPH because it takes so much pressure to open the valve. and you can't see if there's a jam or anything. i got two clear types with threaded unions that are just the gravity type flapper. they're awesome. highly recommend.

 

[Engloid]

yeah those are spring type that take away from your GPH because it takes so much pressure to open the valve. and you can't see if there's a jam or anything. i got two clear types with threaded unions that are just the gravity type flapper. they're awesome. highly recommend.

I have a spring type on my setup, and it's pumping from the basement up to the next floor...in 1.5" pvc. I have to throttle it back with a ball valve because my overflow can't handle as much as the pump will push. The spring really doesn't need to have a lot of pressure, just enough that when the power goes out, it won't burp over and over and slowly leak water.

Can you post up pics of yours or a link to them? I've never seen clear ones. I do know for fact that the type the aquarium sells WILL leak. As I mentioned, they will leak just from the pressure it takes for two garbage cans to get to equal water level.

 

[jduck]

Check out the George Fisher Wye Check Valve. Make sure there is enough room in your sump to handle the water incase of check valve failure, so there is no flood. Drill your returns with suction breaks.

 

[Engloid]

Check out the George Fisher Wye Check Valve. Make sure there is enough room in your sump to handle the water incase of check valve failure, so there is no flood. Drill your returns with suction breaks.

Good point on the suction breaks... and I will also add....TEST IT TO SEE WHAT IT DOES IN POWER OUTAGE....a few times.

 

[EvilMel]

Good call Spencer. Definitely cut all the power and see what happens.

I'm with Rob and Justin on just filling it up with tapwater at first to see if it leaks.

 

[Rob.D]

Any update Matt?

 

[Gladfelter]

Works got me set back and I've gotta get a check valve. I'll post dome pics of where I'm at but I have not filled it yet. I am next Tuesday and Wednesday so I would love to have leak checked it by then or at least do the leak check and fill those days.

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