Please everyone always check your TDS

[yanni]

Hey all,

I’m seeming to be at the end of my GHA battle that’s spanned over a year, and between two tanks transferring all livestock. I tried everything, GFO, CUC additions, scrubbing rocks w peroxide, frequent WCs, blackouts, and now fed up, I’m using fluconazole to give me the upper hand.

A lot of people suggested to check my RODI, which was sourced from my LFS, who assured me it was always between 0 and 5, which I thought 5 was acceptable as a max. First mistake.

Admittedly, I do have high phos, but I was on top of that now with GFO and WCs. After countless months again battling it, I was like, why not check the LFS RODI.

It wasn’t crazy, a mere 35 TDS, but I’ve been told that’s more than enough, depending what the TDS makeup is, to cause algae issues and contribute to them.

Lesson learnt, always, individually test things, can’t take peoples words on things. Same premise as making a fish eat at the shop to make sure it will eat. I still have a battle ahead of me, but I’m confident now with the flux, as well as using clean water of 0 TDS, I can beat it! Good luck to everyone who may be fighting algae issues!

 

[LordofCinder]

Perhaps the lesson is "get your own rodi machine instead of relying on someone else".

The machine will pay for itself over time, the water will be in your home so you won;t have to carry it across town, and you will switch out the filters when needed therefore always maintaining 0 tds.

 

[homer1475]

Perhaps the lesson is "get your own rodi machine instead of relying on someone else".

The machine will pay for itself over time, the water will be in your home so you won;t have to carry it across town, and you will switch out the filters when needed therefore always maintaining 0 tds.

I was just going to post something similar as I was reading the OP.

+1

 

[yanni]

Perhaps the lesson is "get your own rodi machine instead of relying on someone else".

The machine will pay for itself over time, the water will be in your home so you won;t have to carry it across town, and you will switch out the filters when needed therefore always maintaining 0 tds.

I completely agree, but my living situation makes it very hard to use an RODI machine, **** plumbing they won’t let us alter and the outdoor tap is wedged behind an AC unit. So it’s easier for me to buy it

 

[homer1475]

You can buy a hookup that just goes onto your kitchen/bathroom faucet. No plumbing required, no modification to any plumbing besides screwing an adapter onto your faucet.

Many people put the "machine" in their tub, hookup to the bathroom faucet, and fill buckets in the tub in case of overflowing.

 

[Reefer Matt]

I use separate resin beds of cation, anion, and mixed to increase contact time and remove as many impurities as possible. It also lets me change out only the resin I need to, as cation often lasts for over a year, but anion is three months.
Some things like ammonia and phosphates may have a weak charge, and may not be completely removed from a single di stage, according to BRS, anyway. I'm sure the chemists here can validate or refute the use of separate di chambers for that. But 35 tds is pretty high, imo.

 

[homer1475]

But 35 tds is pretty high, imo.

You think! My tap TDS isn't even that high.

 

[Townes_Van_Camp]

Perhaps the lesson is "get your own rodi machine instead of relying on someone else".

The machine will pay for itself over time, the water will be in your home so you won;t have to carry it across town, and you will switch out the filters when needed therefore always maintaining 0 tds.

They are so cheap now.

 

[Reefer Matt]

You think! My tap TDS isn't even that high.

My tap is 150 tds.

 

[Townes_Van_Camp]

My tap is 150 tds.

250. Even my dogs get water out of the spectra pure drinking water system.

 

[homer1475]

My tap is 150 tds.

Mine incoming is 21.

 

[Dburr1014]

I use separate resin beds of cation, anion, and mixed to increase contact time and remove as many impurities as possible. It also lets me change out only the resin I need to, as cation often lasts for over a year, but anion is three months.
Some things like ammonia and phosphates may have a weak charge, and may not be completely removed from a single di stage, according to BRS, anyway. I'm sure the chemists here can validate or refute the use of separate di chambers for that. But 35 tds is pretty high, imo.

I'm on a well and the co2 burns though it.

 

[Troylee]

You think! My tap TDS isn't even that high.

Lucky you! Mines 570! Ugh…. Lol

 

[LordofCinder]

I completely agree, but my living situation makes it very hard to use an RODI machine, **** plumbing they won’t let us alter and the outdoor tap is wedged behind an AC unit. So it’s easier for me to buy it

Check out the RO Buddy, its so small and inexpensive, you can attach it to your sink, then remove and put it away until you need it next time.

Second best option is to buy distilled water from the grocery story. I would trust that way more than the water from the LFS.

 

[homer1475]

Lucky you! Mines 570! Ugh…. Lol

OMG do you actually drink that?

I would assume you would use a whole home purifier?

 

[Townes_Van_Camp]

Check out the RO Buddy, its so small and inexpensive, you can attach it to your sink, then remove and put it away until you need it next time.

Second best option is to buy distilled water from the grocery story. I would trust that way more than the water from the LFS.

I have 75 psi at the hose bib outside. I put one of these on it and run it until it registers 1 tds. Then I replace the di resin. I run it until I get one tds. Then throw the whole thing away and get a new one. It's cheaper that way, and for my little nanos a ro buddie with di stage lasts quite a while.

 

[Reefer Matt]

I'm on a well and the co2 burns though it.

Yeah, that's the part that sucks with well water. I have a buddy with the same issue. The CO2 burns right through the anion. The only solution it seems is to install an aerator before the rodi system, but they are very expensive in my area. RO by itself with well water might be okay if it tests alright. Depends on what's in the water.

 

[MikeCRK]

Hey all,

I’m seeming to be at the end of my GHA battle that’s spanned over a year, and between two tanks transferring all livestock. I tried everything, GFO, CUC additions, scrubbing rocks w peroxide, frequent WCs, blackouts, and now fed up, I’m using fluconazole to give me the upper hand.

A lot of people suggested to check my RODI, which was sourced from my LFS, who assured me it was always between 0 and 5, which I thought 5 was acceptable as a max. First mistake.

Admittedly, I do have high phos, but I was on top of that now with GFO and WCs. After countless months again battling it, I was like, why not check the LFS RODI.

It wasn’t crazy, a mere 35 TDS, but I’ve been told that’s more than enough, depending what the TDS makeup is, to cause algae issues and contribute to them.

Lesson learnt, always, individually test things, can’t take peoples words on things. Same premise as making a fish eat at the shop to make sure it will eat. I still have a battle ahead of me, but I’m confident now with the flux, as well as using clean water of 0 TDS, I can beat it! Good luck to everyone who may be fighting algae issues!

Never trust the seller! Their job is to sell not to advise

And also:
If you know how to count, count on yourself

 

[Troylee]

OMG do you actually drink that?

I would assume you would use a whole home purifier?

I have the carbon block on my fridge that’s it! The fam and the dogs drink from that haha! Takes for ever to fill a 2gallon just for the dogs.. I’m currently looking into a water softener to help after the main line sprung a leak in my wall from corrosion.. Vegas