Parasite/Illness ID please!

[Paul24]

Does my fish have ich/velvet and an internal parasite? He's still eating fine and is active. He also sleeps near the sand too.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Does my fish have ich/velvet and an internal parasite? He's still eating fine and is active. He also sleeps near the sand too.

Pics are fuzzy and more white light needed. Preliminarily may be ick. Dots too big to be velvet and could even be sand.
Need better pics and even a video

 

[fishguy242]

Some Helpful Hints When Posting or Responding to Threads in the Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis Section

Aquarium Fish Disease Problem Solving Determining the best course of action for a problem with your aquarium can be a difficult task. Even advanced aquarists will often need to seek the help of others for complicated or unique issues. Our intent here on Reef 2 Reef is to offer expert advice...

www.reef2reef.com

#fishmedic

 

[Paul24]

Pics are fuzzy and more white light needed. Preliminarily may be ick. Dots too big to be velvet and could even be sand.
Need better pics and even a

Pics are fuzzy and more white light needed. Preliminarily may be ick. Dots too big to be velvet and could even be sand.
Need better pics and even a video

I'll try to get better pics. I can't post videos for some reason on this site. I was thinking sand. What about the poop hanging out of him? parasite?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'll try to get better pics. I can't post videos for some reason on this site. I was thinking sand. What about the poop hanging out of him? parasite?

Possibly mucus in his tummy especially if youre feeding mysis and brine shrimp

 

[Paul24]

Possibly mucus in his tummy especially if youre feeding mysis and brine shrimp

Brine shrimp. Interesting I didn't know. Is the mucus harmful?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Brine shrimp. Interesting I didn't know. Is the mucus harmful?

No - Just makes a lot of fish owners panic However can be associated with internal parasites but fish will be thin, loss of appetite and even lethargic. Also present at times with constipation.

 

[Paul24]

Pics are fuzzy and more white light needed. Preliminarily may be ick. Dots too big to be velvet and could even be sand.
Need better pics and even a video

he won’t stop moving lol

 

[vetteguy53081]

he won’t stop moving lol

Pics still fuzzy but can make out what appears to be idiopathic mucus plugs and likely cryptocaryon which is Marine Ich and a freshwater dip will offer temporary relief IF fish is not breathing heavily. After dip, You will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.0-2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

 

[Paul24]

Pics still fuzzy but can make out what appears to be idiopathic mucus plugs and likely cryptocaryon which is Marine Ich and a freshwater dip will offer temporary relief IF fish is not breathing heavily. After dip, You will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.0-2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

Wrasses don’t do well with copper though. Can ich live on snails/corals?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Wrasses don’t do well with copper though. Can ich live on snails/corals?

While they can, rare that its transferred. Wrasses can be treated with copper but best with chelated ( which I listed . . cooper power or coppersafe) and at lower level 2.0 which I indicated asmost fish are 2.5 and Added aeration

 

[Paul24]

Ok I have

While they can, rare that it’s transferred. Wrasses can be treated with copper but best with chelated ( which I listed . . cooper power or coppersafe) and at lower level 2.0 which I indicated asmost fish are 2.5 and Added aeration

Ok I have copper power. Just need to get a kit. The current tank they are in is going to be upgraded. Was going to use that as a qt going forward but my build is taking longer than expected. Would a 10 gallon qt be ok for a small clown, the wrasse, and bicolor blenny? The wrasse is the only one showing parasite. Also when ammonia is detected do I do a large wc 50 percent or 20 percent? Will an ammonia alert badge be enough?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok I have

Ok I have copper power. Just need to get a kit. The current tank they are in is going to be upgraded. Was going to use that as a qt going forward but my build is taking longer than expected. Would a 10 gallon qt be ok for a small clown, the wrasse, and bicolor blenny? The wrasse is the only one showing parasite. Also when ammonia is detected do I do a large wc 50 percent or 20 percent? Will an ammonia alert badge be enough?

Yes on tank and I have ZERO faith in ammonia Badge. I prefer test kits with results
When ammonia detected, mix new water to same therapeutic level and then enter into quarantine.Example. . if QT tank is at 2.24, do your excahne and add copper to New water until its at 2.24 and good to go

 

[Paul24]

Yes on tank and I have ZERO faith in ammonia Badge. I prefer test kits with results
When ammonia detected, mix new water to same therapeutic level and then enter into quarantine.Example. . if QT tank is at 2.24, do your excahne and add copper to New water until its at 2.24 and good to go

Does copper power mess with ammonia results or is that just for cupramine? Hanna meter would be fine for results while copper dosing?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Does copper power mess with ammonia results or is that just for cupramine? Hanna meter would be fine for results while copper dosing?

Hanna best and minimal impact on bacteria

 

[Paul24]

Hanna best and minimal impact on bacteria

Should I move over some live sand from my current tank to qt? Also do I setup qt, acclimate fish, then add copper? I know for the wrasse some say to take a week getting to therapeutic levels

 

[vetteguy53081]

Should I move over some live sand from my current tank to qt? Also do I setup qt, acclimate fish, then add copper? I know for the wrasse some say to take a week getting to therapeutic levels

Easiest will be to place a deep bowl with some sand in it for the comfort of wrasse
DO NOT ramp copper, go to treatment level and yes acclimate the fish to quarantine which will introduce it to copper. Start with 2.0 level as wrasses are funny with copper. You can even do 1.78 and in 24-36 hours get to 2.0

 

[Paul24]

Easiest will be to place a deep bowl with some sand in it for the comfort of wrasse
DO NOT ramp copper, go to treatment level and yes acclimate the fish to quarantine which will introduce it to copper. Start with 2.0 level as wrasses are funny with copper. You can even do 1.78 and in 24-36 hours get to 2.0

He’s the the sand kind he just likes sleeping at the bottom of the tank. What should salinity be? Currently I’m at 1.025.

setup qt, put saltwater in , dose copper, then drip acclimate fish, monitor ammonia and copper for 30 days, and make sure it’s gone and not coming back. By this time the new tank should be cycled and ready for them so I’ll just put them there. I’m not using anything from my tank to the new tank.

 

[vetteguy53081]

He’s the the sand kind he just likes sleeping at the bottom of the tank. What should salinity be? Currently I’m at 1.025.

setup qt, put saltwater in , dose copper, then drip acclimate fish, monitor ammonia and copper for 30 days, and make sure it’s gone and not coming back. By this time the new tank should be cycled and ready for them so I’ll just put them there. I’m not using anything from my tank to the new tank.

1.025 is my favorite range