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- Apr 21, 2017
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Not sure if this is the spot to post this. I’m not exactly “new” to reefing but definitely not seasoned.
My main concern is really my nitrates are 0-1 with my nyos tester, and my phosphates have bottomed out to 0.00 today with my Hannah checker.
Last test was 5/30/24
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0.03
Tank is a Red Sea 170 total volume little over 40 gal with the sump. Do have bubble algae starting to pop up, just introduced emerald crab yesterday for. Main issue has been a brown algae all over the rocks and sand. Do have a small patch of cyano as well. I do not run a skimmer but I do run a fuge.
Fuge is ran off a AI fuge light at 30% for 12 hours alternate to tank lighting.
I want to master my nutrient levels for the corals sake, but don’t want to feed the nuisance algea even more. I’ve fed reef roofs twice this week along with usually a cube or less of mysis a day for the other fish and inverts. Change filter socks out three times a week with weekly 5 gallon water changes.
I would just like a direction to go towards to help. If any one can offer advice or like a recipe to follow here was my plans to bring up and manage nutrients going forward just want to make sure I don’t make things worse.
I was planning on swapping to some tropic Marin products. First is the salt they sell, bio actif salt. Read about it and like the parameters offered for what I’m doing and the pharma grade salt. Along with some carbon dose benifits. Other products was basically their carbon dosing line, in this case there NP plus and bacto balance. My idea was to basically use this meathod to get my nutrients under control while also being able to feed corals reef roids, amino acids and etc with out it going rampant.
I also contemplated running the fuge during the day to help actually out compete the nuisance algea in the display. Don’t know if that makes a difference or if I should increase the intensity of the light for more intake consumption. Right now my Cheto grows well. Nothing is exactly plaice like proportions yet just trying to avoid that in a months time.
My main concern is really my nitrates are 0-1 with my nyos tester, and my phosphates have bottomed out to 0.00 today with my Hannah checker.
Last test was 5/30/24
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0.03
Tank is a Red Sea 170 total volume little over 40 gal with the sump. Do have bubble algae starting to pop up, just introduced emerald crab yesterday for. Main issue has been a brown algae all over the rocks and sand. Do have a small patch of cyano as well. I do not run a skimmer but I do run a fuge.
Fuge is ran off a AI fuge light at 30% for 12 hours alternate to tank lighting.
I want to master my nutrient levels for the corals sake, but don’t want to feed the nuisance algea even more. I’ve fed reef roofs twice this week along with usually a cube or less of mysis a day for the other fish and inverts. Change filter socks out three times a week with weekly 5 gallon water changes.
I would just like a direction to go towards to help. If any one can offer advice or like a recipe to follow here was my plans to bring up and manage nutrients going forward just want to make sure I don’t make things worse.
I was planning on swapping to some tropic Marin products. First is the salt they sell, bio actif salt. Read about it and like the parameters offered for what I’m doing and the pharma grade salt. Along with some carbon dose benifits. Other products was basically their carbon dosing line, in this case there NP plus and bacto balance. My idea was to basically use this meathod to get my nutrients under control while also being able to feed corals reef roids, amino acids and etc with out it going rampant.
I also contemplated running the fuge during the day to help actually out compete the nuisance algea in the display. Don’t know if that makes a difference or if I should increase the intensity of the light for more intake consumption. Right now my Cheto grows well. Nothing is exactly plaice like proportions yet just trying to avoid that in a months time.