Nitrates bottoming out, no phosphates.

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

So...I've never been able to detect phosphates in my tank, it's been a little more than 3 months now. I am currently at 2 nitrates, was 5 last week. I am starting to see small cell amphidinium Dino's starting to spread. Should I increase feeding? Or let it be? Or any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Btw had to do a 30%Wc today as per medication directions, currently dosing prazipro and using selcon. Vacuumed sand really good and cleaned the dead corals of all Dino's. But I'm sure they will come back.

 

[fishface NJ]

How old is the tank? Did you scope it to confirm it is dino and not diatom?

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

How old is the tank? Did you scope it to confirm it is dino and not diatom?

3 months old, yes I did.

 

[Jekyl]

What methods of nutrient export are you using? Feeding more is probably the best option either way. Heavy in and heavy out is best for corals.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Its amphidium dine and what test kits are you using as there has to be even a trace of phos in tank
For the dino, start with reduing white light intensity or turn it off period for a week. Add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria per 10 gal during the day and 1ml of hydrogen perxode per 10 gals at night also for a week and it should be under control

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

What methods of nutrient export are you using? Feeding more is probably the best option either way. Heavy in and heavy out is best for corals.

No corals yet just coralline algae

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Its amphidium dine and what test kits are you using as there has to be even a trace of phos in tank
For the dino, start with reduing white light intensity or turn it off period for a week. Add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria per 10 gal during the day and 1ml of hydrogen perxode per 10 gals at night also for a week and it should be under control

Salifert

 

[Jekyl]

No corals yet just coralline algae

Do you have other algae issues?

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Do you have other algae issues?

Nope... I started to see this seaweed last week but it hasn't been growing. Just a few specs here and there.

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

I had bottoming out nitrates and phosphates because my cheato was efficient. I have to either increase food, decrease fuge lighting or dose potassium nitrate and trisodium phosphates. I dose and things are happy

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

So since last night I have increased the amount of food per feeding, so the fish now eat what they can in 2 minutes. Instead of 30-45 seconds. I have reduced my lighting from 100% blue and white for 11hrs to 75% blue and 35% white at 10 hrs. Btw the dino's have come back with a vengeance. The sand was white after I cleaned it last night.

 

[PatW]

If you have coralline, that is a good sign. You want some nitrates but not too much. I have a big tank and .75 ppm nitrates works fine for me. Some people run 5 ppm and others 10 ppm. Usually 20 ppm is too much.

Feeding more will increase nitrates. Dosing food grade sodium nitrate or analytical grade sodium nitrate is a bit more precise.

For phosphates, only the Hanna ULR phosphate or ULR phosphorous tests are sensitive enough to have much value. The ULR phosphorous test is a bit more sensitive than the phosphate. I find if I feed, I can run even 0 phosphates and even large polyp corals do fine. I try to run a bit higher than that. But some people have problems if they have no measurable phosphates.

If you have coralline and no Cyanobacteria, you are probably fine. But if you like keeping tabs, pick up a Hanna test kit or check with you LFS for testing.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

If you have coralline, that is a good sign. You want some nitrates but not too much. I have a big tank and .75 ppm nitrates works fine for me. Some people run 5 ppm and others 10 ppm. Usually 20 ppm is too much.

Feeding more will increase nitrates. Dosing food grade sodium nitrate or analytical grade sodium nitrate is a bit more precise.

For phosphates, only the Hanna ULR phosphate or ULR phosphorous tests are sensitive enough to have much value. The ULR phosphorous test is a bit more sensitive than the phosphate. I find if I feed, I can run even 0 phosphates and even large polyp corals do fine. I try to run a bit higher than that. But some people have problems if they have no measurable phosphates.

If you have coralline and no Cyanobacteria, you are probably fine. But if you like keeping tabs, pick up a Hanna test kit or check with you LFS for testing.

Thanks for the info!

 

[fishface NJ]

If you have coralline, that is a good sign. You want some nitrates but not too much. I have a big tank and .75 ppm nitrates works fine for me. Some people run 5 ppm and others 10 ppm. Usually 20 ppm is too much.

Feeding more will increase nitrates. Dosing food grade sodium nitrate or analytical grade sodium nitrate is a bit more precise.

For phosphates, only the Hanna ULR phosphate or ULR phosphorous tests are sensitive enough to have much value. The ULR phosphorous test is a bit more sensitive than the phosphate. I find if I feed, I can run even 0 phosphates and even large polyp corals do fine. I try to run a bit higher than that. But some people have problems if they have no measurable phosphates.

If you have coralline and no Cyanobacteria, you are probably fine. But if you like keeping tabs, pick up a Hanna test kit or check with you LFS for testing.

What if you have coralline and get cyano when you dose NO3?

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Update since changed lighting to 100% blue and 25% white. I do notice alot of different types of algae... I'll post another thread for I.D. with microscope pics.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Update...I now have 2.5ppm Nitrate after increased feeding. And I only have a canister filter...Skimmer isn't even on...