New to the hobby

[DumbReefer101]

Hello I’m new to the hobby !
Im starting with a 10gal with only sand and live rock ( no fish) its been cycling for about 2-3 weeks got the water tested at my LFS my ph 7.6 ammo 1.1 nitrite 0.2 nitrate 0.0 my LFS told me to put Fritz turbo start and come back the next day to buy a cheap fish indicating my tank needed it’s poop. ( which I thought was kinda weird because my ammo was a little high) but I trusted his process because I’m new and learning. I got a small damsel i acclimated him for about 30min and released him into the tank. He was acting normal other than a little stress due to new tank but nothing crazy. After a few hours I noticed he would swim towards the wave maker and give up and let the current take him without trying to swim multiple times (hygger mini wave maker on the lowest speed possible) I thought it was a little weird because the tank he was in at my LFS had a wave maker and it wasn't acting like that. But Eventually he stopped chilled under the live rock cave looking fine so I called it a night and woke up to him on the sand mouth and eyes open. I removed the fish tested my salinity, it was a little high (1.030) so I removed a gallon and put a gallon of distilled now it’s right where it should be (1.024) my water heater was at 77F . Now did my LFS set me up for failure ? Was my water results even possible for keeping a live fish ? did I have a sick fish ? Or was my salinity to high ? Im also putting in a seachem ammonia alert later today. I’d like to hear all advice. Feel free to call me an idiot

 

[Stang67]

Your not an idiot, your learning. I would get a set of tests (the api ones will do just fine) and test your tank daily until you can confirm your tank has cycled. How did you start it? What ammonia source did you use?

 

[Uncle99]

Welcome to R2R!

Fish going into 1.030 may die.
That’s to high.
It might depend on what it was in before 1.030

You can put higher salinity fish in lower salinity quickly, but not the reverse.

Fish only say 1.020 to 1.023
Inverts and corals 1.025-1.026

 

[FUNGI]

most LFS is at .021....so.....yeah...most likely the higher salinity didnt help

 

[Stang67]

And a refractometer for salinity.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

With ammonia that high and zero nitrate, I’m not sure the tank was cycled. The difference in the salinity didn’t help.

I agree the tank can use a powerhead, that tiny hob filter is not providing great filtration. A 10 gallon is very small and water can foul quickly.

 

[exnisstech]

Welcome to R2R!

Fish going into 1.030 may die.
That’s to high.
It might depend on what it was in before 1.030

You can put higher salinity fish in lower salinity quickly, but not the reverse.

Fish only say 1.020 to 1.023
Inverts and corals 1.025-1.026

^This is possible ^ many stores keep fish in low salinity. It's always a good idea to test the salinity of the bag before adding the fish. A longer acclimation period may be required. Sorry for the loss but it happens.

 

[PharmrJohn]

I wouldn't put another fish in the tank until it's completely cycled. You can do a fishless cycle very easily. Just toss some fish food (maybe some brine shrimp that will not take a lot of time to completely decompose). Let the tank cook until you have zero ammonia and some nitrates. THEN add a Damsel. You may get a small spike of ammonia but that's the biome catching up.

 

[exnisstech]

most LFS is at .021....so.....yeah...most likely the higher salinity didnt help

I have two lfs and have tested water and found one at 1.015 and another at 1.016 I now only buy from tanks that have coral and or inverts.

 

[FUNGI]

I have two lfs and have tested water and found one at 1.015 and another at 1.016 I now only buy from tanks that have coral and or inverts.

ouch....yeah, now thats low

 

[PharmrJohn]

I have two lfs and have tested water and found one at 1.015 and another at 1.016 I now only buy from tanks that have coral and or inverts.

That's a good point. I'll do that.

 

[DumbReefer101]

With ammonia that high and zero nitrate, I’m not sure the tank was cycled. The difference in the salinity didn’t help.

I agree the tank can use a powerhead, that tiny hob filter is not providing great filtration. A 10 gallon is very small and water can foul quickly.

Would upgrading to a 40gal overhang filter work as well for more filtration ? I do agree a power head will be better but since it’s only a 10 gallon I’m thinking it’ll take a lot of space and cause more current with my wave maker ( correct me if I’m wrong ) the overhang filter I have now is rated for a 10 gal but I’m assuming it takes awhile to cycle the water since it’s rated for 10gal max. I have a 40gal empty tank gifted from a friend but I’d like to slowly build that one up and make sure this hobby is good for me that’s why I picked a 10 gal for my first tank. so this tank is really a budget tank to see where this hobby takes me. Once I get the hang of everything the 10gal tank will end up being my quarantine tank.

 

[NanoNana]

The hygger mini is probably too much for a 10 gallon even on low. It’s a 1600 gph power head. There really isn’t a lot of difference in the high and low settings. I know it’s says it’s for nano tanks but they lied. Lol
Your LFS had you cycling with a fish. People do it successfully but it’s just as easy as some have said to either ghost feed the tank or use an ammonia additive like Dr. Tim’s. The Fritz turbo should have you clearing ammonia pretty fast.

TBH, a 40 gallon would be the easier starter tank. When things go south in a nano, they go south fast.

Do you have an idea what fish you actually want when you’re cycled? Damsels don’t play well with others and if it had lived, it would probably be the only thing in your tank. Ever.

 

[DumbReefer101]

Yea I’d probably just transfer everything in my 40gal and start over with that one and see where it takes me. For this 10gal my goal was just to stabilize everything get the hang of everything and keep fish alive I was thinking a baby clown fish, baby cleaner shrimp, and POSSIBLY and star fish or blue tang depending on space and levels etc. and maybe a coral. Once everything gets to big the 40gal should be done and gets transferred. But now I’m thinking to just start over with the 40gal

 

[Uncle99]

Yea I’d probably just transfer everything in my 40gal and start over with that one and see where it takes me. For this 10gal my goal was just to stabilize everything get the hang of everything and keep fish alive I was thinking a baby clown fish, baby cleaner shrimp, and POSSIBLY and star fish or blue tang depending on space and levels etc. and maybe a coral. Once everything gets to big the 40gal should be done and gets transferred. But now I’m thinking to just start over with the 40gal

It’s harder to keep smaller water volumes stable.
40G will give you some room.

 

[PharmrJohn]

It’s harder to keep smaller water volumes stable.
40G will give you some room.

Yep, yep. I've dealt with a 10g reef. Not easy.

 

[TheMetalReefs]

Welcome to the hobby and its learning curve. I would definitley buy some test kits to test your own parameters at home (its not that hard.) Also refractometer to test salinity. From first hand experience 10 gallons is harder to keep than something bigger, so your learning curve gets a little steeper, however its not impossible. The salinity being high doesnt help but you shouldnt put any live stock until your ammonia drops to zero, your nitrites zero and maybe some nitrates. I used Dr. Tims Ammonia to kick start the process....So what to do now? I would suggest getting a basic test kit and wait till that ammonia gets to zero. Then try again with a fish (my first fish was a royal gramma). I like to float the bag to temp acclimate and then drip acclimate. (assuming your not going to qt.) Keep an eye on that ammonia for the next week at least to make sure the ammonia doesnt going up. (the ammonia badge works, but always test with your kit.) Get a feel for what its like maintaining you tank with your fish amd then go from there. Time and patience is your friend in this hobby. Keep us updated!