New to saltwater aquariums

[richreef90]

New to salt water aquariums, was advised by an aquatic store you could instant cycle with colony and add fish after a week. Which I have, which I’ve now realised definitely hasn’t cycled my tank after doing more research..
I have about 6 fish in the tank 225 litres with sump and protein skimmer, I used 9.5kg of caribsea rock. The tanks been set up 3 weeks tomorrow.
I’ve done 10% water change a week ago, 20% 3 days ago and 30% yesterday. Ammonia is still reading around 0.5? The ammonia hasn’t really moved even with the water changes. Will post test results, nitrite has spiked, was zero before.
Not sure how I can keep the fish alive with these results, any advice would be appreciated.

 

[blaxsun]

First, those test kits are notoriously unreliable. Second, ignore your nitrite readings (these are only useful when cycling your tank; nitrates look good). Third, you will always get some ammonia reading (if it was at lethal levels - your fish would already be dead). A Seachem Ammonia Alert badge is a better choice for instant ammonia readings.

10% water changes every 1-2 weeks is fairly typical, so unless there's something drastically wrong with your tank you really don't need to exceed this.

 

[GatorGreg]

6 fish in 3 week old tank with dry rock and sand. Buckle up you’re in for a wild ride. Boy they led you astray big time.

Is that a hippo tang in your 50 cube?

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

API ammonia tests are known to read 0.25-0.5 ammonia even in tanks that have been running for years, so depending on how you “ instant cycled,” the test may just be a false positive. Nitrite (which is pretty much harmless until you get a reading of like 100 in saltwater) and Nitrate spiking would indicate to me that your tank is cycled/cycling, so I’d suggest testing ammonia with a more reliable test kit.

If you’re still concerned about the ammonia with a different test, then post again and the community here can give you some helpful feedback (as a note, even some of the better tests do show things like 0.1 ammonia from time to time - it’s not usually a concern unless it’s reading high). If ammonia for some reason really is a concern (which is unlikely at this point), then you could add more rock to your display to strengthen your biofilter and increase your tank's ability to convert ammonia to Nitrate.

Live rock and bottle bacteria brands like Fritz Turbostart 900, Biospira, and Dr. Tim’s one and only fishless cycle can all (in sufficient quantities) be used for a successful instant cycle.

Also, just one last suggestion: as you have likely figured out by this point, it's a good idea to take what your local fish store says with a heaping spoonful of salt. Some LFS offer good advice, but - from what I've seen - most don't.

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

 

[vetteguy53081]

New to salt water aquariums, was advised by an aquatic store you could instant cycle with colony and add fish after a week. Which I have, which I’ve now realised definitely hasn’t cycled my tank after doing more research..
I have about 6 fish in the tank 225 litres with sump and protein skimmer, I used 9.5kg of caribsea rock. The tanks been set up 3 weeks tomorrow.
I’ve done 10% water change a week ago, 20% 3 days ago and 30% yesterday. Ammonia is still reading around 0.5? The ammonia hasn’t really moved even with the water changes. Will post test results, nitrite has spiked, was zero before.
Not sure how I can keep the fish alive with these results, any advice would be appreciated.

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Prepare to do water changes - I recommend daily changes of one gallon to keep ammonia and nitrate in check. I trust a politician more than I trust these kits and wiped them off the shelf of my LFS for a reason. They are notorious for false readings. Hanna and salifert brand is more reliable. To confirm your readings,
take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
Shame on LFS for advice given. Feed sparingly the next 4 weeks and monitor water quality with Reliable kits. Disregard nitrites unless sky high over 100ppm

Typical cycling would have been adding your bacteria and then ammonia chloride. Then you wanted to monitor ammonia . When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Again, Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
Overloading tank with too many fish up front will exceed what the bacteria can handle which is why its best to stock fish slowly in which your LFS suggested the opposite.

 

[richreef90]

First, those test kits are notoriously unreliable. Second, ignore your nitrite readings (these are only useful when cycling your tank; nitrates look good). Third, you will always get some ammonia reading (if it was at lethal levels - your fish would already be dead). A Seachem Ammonia Alert badge is a better choice for instant ammonia readings.

10% water changes every 1-2 weeks is fairly typical, so unless there's something drastically wrong with your tank you really don't need to exceed this.

Hi thank you for your reply. The tank has a seachem ammonia alert on it which is reading 0.02 and hasn’t changed.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

Welcome! Happy reefing! I don't know what advice or warnings you have received so forgive me if you already know. Your tank will go through a ugly faze. There will be algae every where. All of this is normal. It will take months to get through but in the end you will have a beautiful tank. Copepods are a must to add to the tank in my experience. Snail, hermit crab and emerald crab will help. It took me 4 months before my tank started to look like a normal reef. Welcome to your new addiction!

 

[blaxsun]

Hi thank you for your reply. The tank has a seachem ammonia alert on it which is reading 0.02 and hasn’t changed.

I'd ignore the other test results then. Invest it a good nitrate/phosphate kit (Salifert, Nyos, etc.)

 

[Nman]

Salfert is a good test kit at least when you test you can trust it . Also a lot of good information from members above

 

[richreef90]

API ammonia tests are known to read 0.25-0.5 ammonia even in tanks that have been running for years, so depending on how you “ instant cycled,” the test may just be a false positive. Nitrite (which is pretty much harmless until you get a reading of like 100 in saltwater) and Nitrate spiking would indicate to me that your tank is cycled/cycling, so I’d suggest testing ammonia with a more reliable test kit.

If you’re still concerned about the ammonia with a different test, then post again and the community here can give you some helpful feedback (as a note, even some of the better tests do show things like 0.1 ammonia from time to time - it’s not usually a concern unless it’s reading high). If ammonia for some reason really is a concern (which is unlikely at this point), then you could add more rock to your display to strengthen your biofilter and increase your tank's ability to convert ammonia to Nitrate.

Live rock and bottle bacteria brands like Fritz Turbostart 900, Biospira, and Dr. Tim’s one and only fishless cycle can all (in sufficient quantities) be used for a successful instant cycle.

Also, just one last suggestion: as you have likely figured out by this point, it's a good idea to take what your local fish store says with a heaping spoonful of salt. Some LFS offer good advice, but - from what I've seen - most don't.

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Prepare to do water changes - I recommend daily changes of one gallon to keep ammonia and nitrate in check. I trust a politician more than I trust these kits and wiped them off the shelf of my LFS for a reason. They are notorious for false readings. Hanna and salifert brand is more reliable. To confirm your readings,
take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
Shame on LFS for advice given. Feed sparingly the next 4 weeks and monitor water quality with Reliable kits. Disregard nitrites unless sky high over 100ppm

Typical cycling would have been adding your bacteria and then ammonia chloride. Then you wanted to monitor ammonia . When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Again, Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
Overloading tank with too many fish up front will exceed what the bacteria can handle which is why its best to stock fish slowly in which your LFS suggested the opposite.

Hi thanks for the advice, I’ve managed to take my flame Angel back to the store where they’re looking after it until my tank is ready, I’ve sold the regal tang, royal and gramma. I have a black white clown pair and rusty Angel left, will do my best to keep the ammonia down but will try and sell these fish too, wish I knew colony wasn’t an instant cycle, and think it’s best the fish are gone until the tanks 100% ready.