New sump

Ryan Wright

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I went from a wet/dry, with a massive flex hose, in-line UV light, phosban reactor to a Triggersystems Crystal 30 with a 1" straight drop down for the return. My pump is massive & I never had problems before, but now my Durso is insanely loud & only way to stop the gurgle is to put a 1/4" straw in it which then whistles. Also the 1st chamber is a crap ton of bubbles

20240927_135703.jpg
 

PharmrJohn

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Are you able to tune your Durso? Or is it free flowing with one speed? I don't see any valves.....
 

PharmrJohn

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Got it. I had the same issue with mine back in the day. I had it wide open and it was noisy (I had a CPR Overflow). Only difference between you and I was I had ball valves everywhere. If a pipe went from the tank to the sump or vice versa, there was a ball valve involved. And I used all of them. But this was back in the day of ONLY AC pumps. DC has changed that. Now, here is where I get a tad weak. I've come back after a 15 year hiatus and need to re-educate myself on plumbing. I know there is a way to create plumbing that will come apart via certain connectors. I'm not sure if these connectors are also ball valves. I simply haven't looked into it yet to make some rough plan for my own plumbing. I'd wait until we have a few more comments on the issue before proceeding.
 

PharmrJohn

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Sorry. Didn't explain. Said connectors are designed to be taken apart if you want to make changes to your plumbing or if you want to easily remove your sump
 
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Ryan Wright

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Sorry. Didn't explain. Said connectors are designed to be taken apart if you want to make changes to your plumbing or if you want to easily remove your sump
Yeah, my sump is not coming out I had to remove my tank, rip a couple of braces off my stand, drop the sump in, reattach braces, reset aquarium, then plumbing it all.
 

PharmrJohn

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Yeah, my sump is not coming out I had to remove my tank, rip a couple of braces off my stand, drop the sump in, reattach braces, reset aquarium, then plumbing it all.
Mine was set up that way too. With my new build, there'll be a side door and I'll have the sump on rollers so I can remove jt on demand, all equipment still in it. The plumbing will come apart to allow the process. I don't trust anything I can't get to. My sump never went bad, but my DT did. And I had to do a quick tank swap over 2 or 3 days. I don't want to go through that again.
 

dedragon

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You can use a valve to slow down flow as well as a dc pump to better control how much water is going through. I would highly suggest using a gate valve instead of a ball valve as the fine adjustments really help.

I had a similar setup before with 1 return and 1 drain. I used the smaller 1 for the full siphon durso and the larger as an emergency drain just in case. I then ran the return pump up the back with soft plumbing to a return nozzle that hooked on to the top of the tank (similar to a canister return). Just an option to have
 
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Ryan Wright

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Mine was set up that way too. With my new build, there'll be a side door and I'll have the sump on rollers so I can remove jt on demand, all equipment still in it. The plumbing will come apart to allow the process. I don't trust anything I can't get to. My sump never went bad, but my DT did. And I had to do a quick tank swap over 2 or 3 days. I don't want to go through that again.
I was dodging it forever because I wanted to get into a 110+ size tank, but want to move & not wanting to TD a nice tank. Housing market has sucked & I want an area for pods so finally pulled the trigger on it. I figure this is about 20 gal, so should work for when I upgrade tank
 
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Ryan Wright

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So I ordered an 800gph max pump, $18 Amazon special w/same day delivery. Swapped pumps, this one is adjustable & dialed it down, water is coming up to the edge of the ring for my filter sock (not overflowing it), way less noise too.

I still have a crap ton of bubbles overflowing from protein skimmer because of water height. My supply line is a hair too short & everything is stretched a hair so I am going to get a 3/4" T fitting with a ball valve glued to the angle & 1 to tank side, then I can have a T to build a manifold off of for running phosban reactor or anything else like that plus I can bypass the aquarium and just run filter for water changes (tank off & keep an open port on manifold side dumping to return area.
 
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