Need to find a way to get rid of bubbles from above tank sump/caused by my overflow

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MoshJosh

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So my "sump" sits above my tank and water flows down from 2 1" bulkheads back into the display. . . but boy does it make a lot of bubbles. . .

Any simple way to do this???

Here is the set up, I had the tubes lower in the water, but the bubbles were worse so I added the 90s. . .

1680546651374.png



I was thinking about trying to make a "reverse overflow" out of a HOB filter. Like have the outputs run into the filter box then up and over some baffles, then overflowing into the tank. . . would be weird, but might work. . .
 
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MoshJosh

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Just out of curiosity, why the reverse setup?
Current stand used to be an aquarium rack, but a while back I added some shelves to the top and bottom. My wife still wanted the shelves for her "books" so I really only had the top and middle of the rack to work with. Originally I had a 15 gallon with HOB in the middle part of the rack and when I wanted a sump I really only had one option. . . the top rack. I took that set up down when I upgraded the tank. . . but had the same problem when I went to set up the new tank. . . and I didn't want the display on the top (though in hind sight I could have made a cool display sump). . .


TLDE only had 2 spots for tanks, top and middle of my aquarium rack, and I want the display at eye level.
 
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o2manyfish

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The bubbles are from the air being sucked down with the water going over the overflow pipe.

You could try creating a herbie style system with a gate valve on one line that sit lower in the sump and creates a siphon -- bubble free, and the second line as an emergency overflow for when the siphon slows down.

You can also cut some of it - not all of it - by allowing the air to vent before coming out of the outlet. This means creating a vent hole above the water line so the air can escape before getting pushed out the outlet hole.

This may take some trial and error with different size vent holes at different heights to work out the best vent size for reducing bubbles without causing additional whistling noise.

Dave B
 
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The bubbles are from the air being sucked down with the water going over the overflow pipe.

You could try creating a herbie style system with a gate valve on one line that sit lower in the sump and creates a siphon -- bubble free, and the second line as an emergency overflow for when the siphon slows down.

You can also cut some of it - not all of it - by allowing the air to vent before coming out of the outlet. This means creating a vent hole above the water line so the air can escape before getting pushed out the outlet hole.

This may take some trial and error with different size vent holes at different heights to work out the best vent size for reducing bubbles without causing additional whistling noise.

Dave B
Thanks for the input! Herbie style may be the way to go, that said I may have to do some creative pluming as I am using flexible tubing not rigid PCP.

Would I just drill a vent whole in the elbow just after the bulkhead?
 

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Thanks for the input! Herbie style may be the way to go, that said I may have to do some creative pluming as I am using flexible tubing not rigid PCP.

Would I just drill a vent whole in the elbow just after the bulkhead?
That will just create bubbles… it would have to run full siphon with a valve “gate” preferably and an emergency that’s wide open.
 
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MoshJosh

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That will just create bubbles… it would have to run full siphon with a valve “gate” preferably and an emergency that’s wide open.
where in the plumbing would the gait valve go? could the water still pick up air in the 1" tubing after the gate valve?? I am assuming there is still free air in the remainder of the tube? at least in the way my system is set up?
 

Troylee

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where in the plumbing would the gait valve go? could the water still pick up air in the 1" tubing after the gate valve?? I am assuming there is still free air in the remainder of the tube? at least in the way my system is set up?
On the drain from the sump to the display.
 
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Troylee

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Yeah, but does it matter where? Right after the bulkhead or closer to the output
Id have to see it but no it’s shouldn’t.. how are you adjusting the flow rate currently? Or do you?
 
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Id have to see it but no it’s shouldn’t.. how are you adjusting the flow rate currently? Or do you?
I don't, 2 1" bulk heads installed at the same height that passively drain. Return pump is 270gph if I recall, approximately 24" head height
 

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I don't 2 1: bulk heads installed at the same height that passively drain. Return pump is 270gph if I recall, approximately 24" head height
If you have any kinda pipe between them I’d place a gate valve in there and it will prolly cure your problem.. it will let the water come through without air.
 
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