Need ID and treatment plan for these nuisances!

[TWYOUNG]

Thought I was doing this right but things are going sideways. New system,(3 months post cycle). Established pods immediately after cycle and staying fish only through "uglies". Initial normal issues with diatoms, then possibly cyano. Cannot get nutrients off of 0.0 per Hanna tests. Tried bottle of TM Plus-NP but they never budged. Now this! Pics are PM, (with bubbles) and AM without. Jar is sample 30 mins after shaken and placed under lights, (it was actually more dramatic after 15 mins but things floated to the top). Microscopic views speak for themselves. Need expert ID and treatment plan. Thanks so much in advance.

 

[Shibaken3]

i think its

Dinoflagellates​

 

[Gtinnel]

I would agree with Dinos. I know there are people who can tell what specific type from microscope image but unfortunately I am not one of those people.

 

[Shibaken3]

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[TWYOUNG]

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

My current plan is to stop my skimmer and start dosing NeoPhos, NeoNitro and silicates as well as resuming dosing phyto. daily. I've been advised against vacuuming sand or rock primarily, (I believe), to avoid decimating my much needed pod population. I've been advised a photoperiod "blackout" is not beneficial but may decrease my intensity and/or photoperiod especially since I have no corals to be concerned with. I would welcome input from anyone with knowledge and experience in this area. Thanks

 

[Carpenter Wayne]

Listen to yourself, I will just pour chemicals for a quick fix. What happens when the chemicals kills all your algae, along with killing Corals and fish? Don't throw chemicals into your tank. Purchase inverts to get that under control.

 

[ncjeepguy75]

Pack your patience...Here is what is working for me...May or may not work for you as each tank is a little different...I am just coming down the home stretch (hopefully) with my dino battle...keep your nutrient levels stable and above 0/undetectable (minimal doses of nitrate and phosphate just to keep it stable)...dose some live bacteria if you can get your hands on some (Fritzyme Turbo or something like this or some other form of biodiversity some rubble from another reef hobbyist would work too)...no water changes or vacuum sand or anything, just add top off water as needed...Make sure your clean up crew is well stocked to help you out...I already had some pods in my tank but put in another bottle from Reef Nutrition...not that pods are an end all for dinos but who knows...if nothing else they are fish food which in turn boosts nitrates and nutrients...Again be patient!

 

[TWYOUNG]

Listen to yourself, I will just pour chemicals for a quick fix. What happens when the chemicals kills all your algae, along with killing Corals and fish? Don't throw chemicals into your tank. Purchase inverts to get that under control.

Did I say I had corals because I don't. These " chemicals" you refer to are PHYTOPLANKTON, and NITRATES AND PHOSPHATES to get my levels above zero. As for these inverts you want me to add, my understanding is some dinos are TOXIC to inverts, which is quite possible since I've lost quite a few of the 17 Trochus, 25 Cerith and 10 Nassarius snails I had. So, what other great suggestions or smart a-- remarks do you have?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

My current plan is to stop my skimmer and start dosing NeoPhos, NeoNitro and silicates as well as resuming dosing phyto. daily. I've been advised against vacuuming sand or rock primarily, (I believe), to avoid decimating my much needed pod population. I've been advised a photoperiod "blackout" is not beneficial but may decrease my intensity and/or photoperiod especially since I have no corals to be concerned with. I would welcome input from anyone with knowledge and experience in this area. Thanks

I suggest that instead of stopping the skimmer, you just remove the cup. That way you don't lose the oxygenation the skimmer provides

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Listen to yourself, I will just pour chemicals for a quick fix. What happens when the chemicals kills all your algae, along with killing Corals and fish? Don't throw chemicals into your tank. Purchase inverts to get that under control.

Doesn't sound like a "quick fix" to me... It's not like he's proposing dosing Vibrant! His plan is a good start to naturally correcting the imbalance in his tank

 

[TWYOUNG]

I suggest that instead of stopping the skimmer, you just remove the cup. That way you don't lose the oxygenation the skimmer provides

Thanks, that's exactly what I"m doing. I should have said stop skimming instead of stop skimmer!

 

[TWYOUNG]

Pack your patience...Here is what is working for me...May or may not work for you as each tank is a little different...I am just coming down the home stretch (hopefully) with my dino battle...keep your nutrient levels stable and above 0/undetectable (minimal doses of nitrate and phosphate just to keep it stable)...dose some live bacteria if you can get your hands on some (Fritzyme Turbo or something like this or some other form of biodiversity some rubble from another reef hobbyist would work too)...no water changes or vacuum sand or anything, just add top off water as needed...Make sure your clean up crew is well stocked to help you out...I already had some pods in my tank but put in another bottle from Reef Nutrition...not that pods are an end all for dinos but who knows...if nothing else they are fish food which in turn boosts nitrates and nutrients...Again be patient!

Would MicroBacter7 be something like what you're referring to? Considering that but don't want to be accused of, " throwing chemicals at it" lol!

 

[ncjeepguy75]

Would MicroBacter7 be something like what you're referring to?

yes, you can use Microbacter7 or Microbacter Clean..both are types of bacteria...it might take a few days for them to kickstart as they are in suspended animation status in the bottle but will work....If you are able to get something like Fritzyme Turbo, this is live bacteria as it is kept refrigerated...or even if a fellow reef hobbyist can spare some rubble rock...just trying to get the biodiversity up to help out rank the dinos....

 

[ncjeepguy75]

Would MicroBacter7 be something like what you're referring to? Considering that but don't want to be accused of, " throwing chemicals at it" lol!

this is the live (refrigerated) bacteria I am referring to

 

[TWYOUNG]

View attachment 2867838this is the live (refrigerated) bacteria I am referring to

I used that to cycle my tank but don't understand the benefit it would provide in a fully cycled system with plenty of nitrifying bacteria?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thought I was doing this right but things are going sideways. New system,(3 months post cycle). Established pods immediately after cycle and staying fish only through "uglies". Initial normal issues with diatoms, then possibly cyano. Cannot get nutrients off of 0.0 per Hanna tests. Tried bottle of TM Plus-NP but they never budged. Now this! Pics are PM, (with bubbles) and AM without. Jar is sample 30 mins after shaken and placed under lights, (it was actually more dramatic after 15 mins but things floated to the top). Microscopic views speak for themselves. Need expert ID and treatment plan. Thanks so much in advance.

View attachment 2867155 View attachment 2867156 View attachment 2867157 View attachment 2867158

Ostreo dino
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

 

[TWYOUNG]

I know this thought is kind of " out there" but what would happen if I added water from my 55 gal FOWLR tank which runs 40-50 Nitrates and >2.5 Phosphates? Would that help raise the levels in my new future reef tank or is it fraught with potential problems?

 

[ncjeepguy75]

I used that to cycle my tank but don't understand the benefit it would provide in a fully cycled system with plenty of nitrifying bacteria?

dinos are present in all aquariums...but typically only rear their heads when nutrients are out of whack...bacteria is just another way to help stabilize nutrients and to have the beneficial bacteria compete for the same food source as the dinos and other nuisance stuff in the tank...

 

[ncjeepguy75]

I know this thought is kind of " out there" but what would happen if I added water from my 55 gal FOWLR tank which runs 40-50 Nitrates and >2.5 Phosphates? Would that help raise the levels in my new future reef tank or is it fraught with potential problems?

that most definitely will help raise nutrient (nitrate and phosphate) levels...just keep an eye on the levels in the tank you are trying to help out...

 

[TWYOUNG]

Ostreo dino
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

So hard to know what to do. Others have suggested entirely different courses of action. Why do a water change when I have zero nutrients? I believe mine are prorocentrum (sp) if that makes a difference.