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Unfortunately that is not possible for me at this stage. Anything else I can do?The name is escaping me but you would greatly benefit from removing all your coral into a 5g bucket with heater and powerhead, taking each rock out one by one and scrubbing the bejesus out of them with a nylon brush.
After you scrub them, rinse them off good with the hose and then dunk em in a bucket of RODI to rinse the tap water off.
After the rocks, remove all the sand and blast it with the hose until it runs clear. Quick rinse in RODI.
Put sand back in, rocks and fill with new salt water.
You'll be happy you did it.
I see gha and on rocks wire algae. With the gha, you will want to start with pulling as much as you can by hand. The rock- Best is to pull from tank and place in a container of tank water and with a very firm toothbrush or automotive detail brush scrub the rock with addition of 3% peroxide. With the wire you can at times get lucky and press it with your thumb and peel it off.
Hey there,I see gha and on rocks wire algae. With the gha, you will want to start with pulling as much as you can by hand. The rock- Best is to pull from tank and place in a container of tank water and with a very firm toothbrush or automotive detail brush scrub the rock with addition of 3% peroxide. With the wire you can at times get lucky and press it with your thumb and peel it off.
After cleaning, return to tank, lower white light intensity or hours of white light for about 2 weeks and assure your nitrate and phosphate levels are not elevated.
Then add snails such as : astrea, chiton, ninja star. Pitho crabs and emerald crab(females). Also a tuxedo urchin
Is this tank at or near a window?
Remaining may be lobophora which is imbedded in crevices and is consumed by ninja star snails and possibly Tuxedo urchin as well as carribean blue leg hermits which are tinyAfter some treatment.
Im ok with those nutrient levels as long as steady or lower but .4 phos is concerning. You could add a pouch of chemipure blue or Elite which will gradually bring down phod and keep it in checkWell not sure if I want to promote some of the dumb stuff I did but following is what I ended up doing:
First Day:
1. Took out the most infested and accessible rocks. Brushed them as much as I could.
2. Did a 30 gallon water change.
3. Dumped in half dose of dr tim refresh.
4. Turned off skimmer.
5. Installed UV. It is off due to dr tim treatment.
6. Started 3 day blackout.
Subsequent days basically did what @vetteguy53081 says in the threads. Blasted rocks every night dosed peroxide and changed socks. At the same time did dr tim 2 week refresh/waste away. 3 day blackout 2 day 15% blue.
The nutrients spiked beyond anything I have seen. Nitrate was at 17 and phosphate .74. Keep in mind both of them were almost 0 a month before this.
6th day did a 35 gallon water change. Kept the lights at 40%. Took out some more rocks did full peroxide treatment for 15 mins.
Kept doing Dr tim 2 week and vette’s blasting. Algae continued to die and the peroxide directly on rocks killed a lot of amphipods. Water changes were barely making a dent in nutrients so installed gfo-carbon reactor.
I finished the two weeks. The rocks looked fair. The green coloration decreased substantially but I didn’t have to courage to go full light at those nutrient levels. 11 nitrate .40 phosphate. Continued to do 25-30 gallon water changes twice a week.
My nutrients are still high. 8 ish nitrate and 0.15 phosphate. Lights are at 70%. Still can’t solve the green algae on sand thing. I will go 100% blue once phosphate is below .1. I think the rocks are leeching OR I still have a lot of algae dying since phosphates seem stuck and the twice a week water changes don’t seem to work. Replaced the GFO and hope couple more weeks of water changes will get me to below .1.
I think I was feeding way too much and was getting “false” low readings due to algae.