NEED HELP lowering phosphorus!

[bro1123]

Hello! Let me introduce myself:

Tank: 50 gallon Waterbox AIO
Fish: Bristletooth tang, cardinal fish pair, clownfish pair, and hawk fish
Corals: LPS, SPS (plating monit), Zoas, and Leather
Protein Skimmer (runs 24/7)
UV Sterilizer (not currently running, but is hooked up and ready to go)
I use RODI water and Fristz salt
And currently feeding Mysis and Brine shrimp and Red Sea AB+ for the corals
Also dose Aquaforest components 1,2,3+

I just performed a 15 gallon water change on 4/18/2022, parameters are the following:

temp: 78 degrees
salinity: 1.026
magnesium (Salifert): 1425
calcium (Salifert): 470
alkalinity (Hanna): 132
phosphorous ULR (Hanna): 200 blinking

Obviously the phosphorous levels are high - I just purchased Quantum Phosphate Remover - estimated arrival is 4/25/2022.

Just looking for extra help in ways that I can reduce it or if there's anything else that someone can recommend instead of the Quantum.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mr Cypher]

personally I use brightwell phosphate E and it works well went the GFO route last time I had a spike and dropped it so fast I lost alot of Euphyllia not super happy about that but have had good luck with the phosphate E

 

[bro1123]

personally I use brightwell phosphate E and it works well went the GFO route last time I had a spike and dropped it so fast I lost alot of Euphyllia not super happy about that but have had good luck with the phosphate E

Thanks for the prompt reply! I will look into that, thank you!

 

[Miami Reef]

How old is the tank? Did you use dry rocks?

 

[Preyou]

Here is a calculator that helps you with your dosing for Phosphate-E and other lanthanum chloride phosphate removers. Came in super handy for me. http://larryl.emailplus.org.user.fm/fish/dosing-instructions-phosphate-removers.html

 

[bro1123]

How old is the tank? Did you use dry rocks?

Yes! I originally set up a 20 gallon in January 2021 - then I upgraded to my 50 gallon now in October 2021 (new live sand, same rock, and dosed Dr. Tim’s bacteria) - and that’s what I currently still have going. I did just recently upgrade my rocks (Caribsea base rocks) in March 2022 and dosed another bottle of Dr. Tim’s.

 

[Wasabiroot]

A few routes here. Lanthanum chloride drops (phosphaterx), gfo, or refugium. Generally better to increase export instead of reduce feeding. Would also suggest holding off on ab+...may not have a huge impact but your corals are not starved of nutrients and there may not be as big a benefit currently. Water changes will help but a lot of the phosphate is likely bound in the rocks if these levels have been maintained for some time so they may creep back up.

Edit: can also use phosguard for a more metered approach but some have raised concerns with aluminum fines being released - YMMV, caveat emptor and all that.
If using gfo start small; a little goes a long way. Will work better in a reactor instead of passive

 

[bro1123]

Here’s a picture

 

[bro1123]

A few routes here. Lanthanum chloride drops (phosphaterx), gfo, or refugium. Generally better to increase export instead of reduce feeding. Would also suggest holding off on ab+...may not have a huge impact but your corals are not starved of nutrients and there may not be as big a benefit currently. Water changes will help but a lot of the phosphate is likely bound in the rocks if these levels have been maintained for some time so they may creep back up.

Any brand you’d suggest? And weblink? And then just follow the calculator?

 

[Wasabiroot]

Any brand you’d suggest? And weblink? And then just follow the calculator?

Something like Bayoxide or BRS branded gfo. Or two little fishes Phosban. Read instructions and start with slightly less, measure phosphates as can drop quickly

 

[Wasabiroot]

Any media you use should ideally be in an area with decent flow. Also ensure you rinse sufficiently to avoid oxide particulates irritating fish/etc

 

[Wasabiroot]

Cool scape BTW. Lots of nice lps. Last thing to consider. 200 or greater is high (around .6) but none of your corals look super stressed. Might be fine lowering to .1 or .2 (halving ppb).

 

[Miami Reef]

Yes! I originally set up a 20 gallon in January 2021 - then I upgraded to my 50 gallon now in October 2021 (new live sand, same rock, and dosed Dr. Tim’s bacteria) - and that’s what I currently still have going. I did just recently upgrade my rocks (Caribsea base rocks) in March 2022 and dosed another bottle of Dr. Tim’s.

The new dry rocks are sand are supplying the phosphates. There’s a finite supply that will eventually run out.

Worry not, having this level of phosphates isn’t bad and it most likely won’t cause any more algae than having phosphates at 0.10ppm.

That being said, if you wish to reduce it, use GFO and use it slowly. There’s no rush with this because dropping it too fast and going too low can cause serious problems. Use half recommended.

I do not recommend using Lanthanum Chloride (liquid phosphate removers).

 

[bro1123]

The new dry rocks are sand are supplying the phosphates. There’s a finite supply that will eventually run out.

Worry not, having this level of phosphates isn’t bad and it most likely won’t cause any more algae than having phosphates at 0.10ppm.

That being said, if you wish to reduce it, use GFO and use it slowly. There’s no rush with this because dropping it too fast and going too low can cause serious problems. Use half recommended.

I do not recommend using Lanthanum Chloride (liquid phosphate removers).

Awesome! Thank you so much, glad to to hear this. I was really concerned but at the same time my corals have never looked happier.

I'll continue to change my water and monitor the levels and just go from there and intervene if I have to.

Also, side note, I'm getting some SPS (Stlyophora (Cat's Paw) and Cyphastrea) next week - should I be concerned? Just would hate to see them die.

 

[Miami Reef]

Awesome! Thank you so much, glad to to hear this. I was really concerned but at the same time my corals have never looked happier.

I'll continue to change my water and monitor the levels and just go from there and intervene if I have to.

Also, side note, I'm getting some SPS (Stlyophora (Cat's Paw) and Cyphastrea) next week - should I be concerned? Just would hate to see them die.

I would personally remove about 3/4 of your sand bed. It will trap lots of junk and may cause nutrient buildup issues long term.

I would get 1 tuxedo urchin. This will remove so much algae. If you do this, you’d prevent algae from growing and taking over the tank.

Your rocks currently look fresh and if your corals are doing well, algae will do well. Especially on fresh rock with little bio competition. That’s where the urchin comes in. They are mainly what handle algae in real reefs. Without them, algae will smother corals.

As soon as you get your phosphates in a healthy and stable range, it will be good to add the SPS corals. You’d be surprised by how much phosphates the corals and algae will consume, so just wait 1-2 weeks for the tank to settle and reevaluate.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

personally I use brightwell phosphate E and it works well went the GFO route last time I had a spike and dropped it so fast I lost alot of Euphyllia not super happy about that but have had good luck with the phosphate E

Sounds like you used too much GFO?

 

[bro1123]

Sounds like you used too much GFO?

I haven't used any.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I haven't used any.

I understand. I was replying to My Cypher who said GFO lowered his phosphate too fast.