Nano Reef Bare Bottom Cycling

[Camaronero]

Too many questions so sorry in advance¡ For a nano aquarium (<30 gallons) I’m curious if you add a Tupperware or like a Pyrex container ( # of such containers depending on the size of the aquarium) and filled them like 3/4th full with sand would that speed up the cycling process¿ If so, when one reaches desired water parameters, would removing the containers cause any drastic change in water quality/ nitrifying bacteria problems¿
Also,
•Let me know what “higher temperature” range works best for you when cycling¿
•Which biological additive product and steps should be taken when talking about a bare bottom with live rock¿
•Is cycling an aquarium starting with lower salinity something a less experienced person could handle doing¿ (scared of having to raise it later and dropping the ball on the desired parameters and bacteria)
•During cycling often should one be doing water changes and when is a larger one needed¿
•What is the stocking order for Copepods, invertebrates, and fish?

! My LFS has a really nice but somewhat pricey nano fish selection meaning I’m really eager, BUT am prepared to wait forever if it means I have good water quality for long term success of the fish and corals¡!

Hope everyone who reads/replies has a great rest of the week!

 

[Ricox]

Ok so the cycling process is to establish nitrifiying bacteria in your reef tank in the bio media so your rock sand and bio media in your filter. so by taking out the sand after you are taking out the bacteria you took so long to establish. The higher temperature is just because bacteria will spread more in a higher temperature but you will have to do more research into that. Also your tank will be fine being a barebottom with live rock so treat it as a normal tank. if you add bottled bacteria you could add fish day one especially with live rock and live sand. Use dr tims one and only, atm colony or fritz zyme 9 or fritz turbo start. You could also try seacham stability if they have nothing else. Don't do water changes throughout cycling because you will take out some of the bacteria that is establishing as well as some of the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate that is acting as food for your bacteria. I like to do a large water change after your tank is definetley fully cylced or if you are using bacteria a week after you add your fish. Normally without bacteria you would dose copepods straight after your cycle inverts for you cuc after you see algae or after your cycle if you are eager. And fish after you see that your inverts are doing fine. Hopefully this helps. Try do some more research on your tank size and what fish you can get first before you buy them though. It might also be helpful for you to watch a video on the nitrogen cycle as well as it will give you a better idea on how your reef tank works. Good luck!

 

[Miami Reef]

If you want bare bottom, do not add sand.

Add a bottle of cycling bacteria from LFS (Fritz turbo start 9, microbacter 7, biospira etc)

You can add your fish the same day.

Keep your temps normal. Keep your salinity normal. No need to manipulate these parameters at all.

 

[Camaronero]

Ok so the cycling process is to establish nitrifiying bacteria in your reef tank in the bio media so your rock sand and bio media in your filter. so by taking out the sand after you are taking out the bacteria you took so long to establish. The higher temperature is just because bacteria will spread more in a higher temperature but you will have to do more research into that. Also your tank will be fine being a barebottom with live rock so treat it as a normal tank. if you add bottled bacteria you could add fish day one especially with live rock and live sand. Use dr tims one and only, atm colony or fritz zyme 9 or fritz turbo start. You could also try seacham stability if they have nothing else. Don't do water changes throughout cycling because you will take out some of the bacteria that is establishing as well as some of the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate that is acting as food for your bacteria. I like to do a large water change after your tank is definetley fully cylced or if you are using bacteria a week after you add your fish. Normally without bacteria you would dose copepods straight after your cycle inverts for you cuc after you see algae or after your cycle if you are eager. And fish after you see that your inverts are doing fine. Hopefully this helps. Try do some more research on your tank size and what fish you can get first before you buy them though. It might also be helpful for you to watch a video on the nitrogen cycle as well as it will give you a better idea on how your reef tank works. Good luck!

If you want bare bottom, do not add sand.

Add a bottle of cycling bacteria from LFS (Fritz turbo start 9, microbacter 7, biospira etc)

You can add your fish the same day.

Keep your temps normal. Keep your salinity normal. No need to manipulate these parameters at all.

Can’t thank you enough for the input¡ Guessing I went too deep and ended up clouded with all the info. Planning to keep one of my favorite fish which is a yellow possum wrasse and debating getting more than one fish tank mate which is why I’d prefer to not cycle the aquarium with fish + don’t want to get stuck with a clownfish or damsel.
•Keeping it simple then with a bottle of Fritz Turbo Start 900, extra bio media spheres instead of my filter sock , testing every 2-5 days, and lights off.

Any other extra steps I’m missing or can add?
Thanks again, have a great afternoon¡

 

[Miami Reef]

Are you going to use dry or live rocks?

 

[Camaronero]

Are you going to use dry or live rocks?

Dry rock... Scared of curing + unwanted shenanigans that come with live rock

 

[Miami Reef]

Dry rock... Scared of curing + unwanted shenanigans that come with live rock

I highly recommend getting at least 1 piece of live rock. It doesn’t have to be huge. Getting a little piece that has coralline algae ensures that you will have most of the diversity you’ll need to get your tank on the right start.

Then I suggest getting about 10-15 trochus snails and 1 tuxedo urchin. Keep lights on for 3 hours a day initially.

This will really get you far ahead in terms of cycling. You should pretty much bypass the ugly stage.

 

[Camaronero]

I highly recommend getting at least 1 piece of live rock. It doesn’t have to be huge. Getting a little piece that has coralline algae ensures that you will have most of the diversity you’ll need to get your tank on the right start.

Then I suggest getting about 10-15 trochus snails and 1 tuxedo urchin. Keep lights on for 3 hours a day initially.

This will really get you far ahead in terms of cycling. You should pretty much bypass the ugly stage.

Spot on. Thanks for the help I’ll investigate where I can snatch or buy a piece of live rock¡ Also should I purchase a controller like Profilux Mini (I don’t like the reviews for anything Neptune) or will I be fine with a power bar and a timer¿

 

[Miami Reef]

Spot on. Thanks for the help I’ll investigate where I can snatch or buy a piece of live rock¡ Also should I purchase a controller like Profilux Mini (I don’t like the reviews for anything Neptune) or will I be fine with a power bar and a timer¿

Aquarium controllers are not my strong suit.

Making a new thread will get a lot more replies in that department. Most people know about aquarium controllers very well.

 

[Ricox]

How big is your tank? because I wouldn't get a tuxedo urchin if your tank is much under 30 gallons as they can starve if there is not enough algae even if you are supplementing with seaweed sheets. I would stick with just crabs and snails for that size of a tank.

 

[Miami Reef]

How big is your tank? because I wouldn't get a tuxedo urchin if your tank is much under 30 gallons as they can starve if there is not enough algae even if you are supplementing with seaweed sheets. I would stick with just crabs and snails for that size of a tank.

I personally don’t agree, but I respect your opinion. New tanks will more often than not will get a very large algae bloom.

Herbivores are a natural method to tackle the algae stage which is pretty much guaranteed with new tanks. If there’s not enough algae, then OP can raise the duration of the lighting (which is the end goal) so that they tank can eventually support corals.

I think an urchin is critical to bypassing the algae stage without seeing an ugly tank. Trust me, there will be more than enough food. Live aquaria recommends a minimum of 20 gallons for an urchin. I personally have 3 urchins in my 20 coral QT and they are getting fatter by the day.

Also, my opinion, but I HIGHLY recommend not getting any hermit crabs at all. They are not likely to consume algae, and they will most likely kill the snails for their shells, regardless if they have shells already on the sandbed IME.