My ICP result + My manual Test. Anything I should fix?

[SomeHappyFish]

-Quick observation I made on my salinity level, I use a hanna salinity checker but I tested the water with a refractometer also because I had a doubt and it showed 35.9ppt on the refracto so I reclibrated my Hanna to make sure and it still showed 35ppt after calibration on May 2 so I thought nothing of it since I had use RoDi to clibrate my refractometer. The ICP test gives me a 35.9ppt. So who do I trust ?

My results when I tested by hand on May 6, 17h after taking the ICP sample:
Salinity 34.6ppt
Alk 7.7dKh
Nitrate 10.6ppm
Phos 0.02
Cal 365
Mg 1350

ICP vs Manual difference:
Salinity +1.3ppt
Alk -0.2 dKh
Nitrate -3.2ppm lower
Phos -0.05ppm
Cal +35ppm
Mg +67ppm

-Should I worry about something or fix an issue here ? Everything seems fine except the high salinity?

 

[TX_REEF]

is your refractometer calibrated? in my opinion, a calibrated refrac should be the end-all for salinity.

Otherwise your tests look great to me, but Iodine could probably afford to be supplemented.

Is there any observable problem you are trying to diagnose? If not, I wouldn't try to chase numbers - you'll probably do more harm than good.

 

[Dburr1014]

I thought nothing of it since I had use RoDi to clibrate my refractometer. The ICP test gives me a 35.9ppt. So who do I trust ?

is your refractometer calibrated? in my opinion, a calibrated refrac should be the end-all for salinity.

This right here.
Trust a properly calibrated refractometer, not one calibrated with rodi.

Randy Holmes-Farley has an article on a diy calibration fluid. Use that to calibrate and report back.

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/index.php

 

[SomeHappyFish]

is your refractometer calibrated? in my opinion, a calibrated refrac should be the end-all for salinity.

Otherwise your tests look great to me, but Iodine could probably afford to be supplemented.

Is there any observable problem you are trying to diagnose? If not, I wouldn't try to chase numbers - you'll probably do more harm than good.

I calibrated it with Ro/Di just for fun and it actually gave me a reading of 35.9ppt but I didn't considered it accurate since it was with Ro/Di.

The observable problem was, the occasional diatom bloom after a water change so I wanted to see the silicate level in my RO water but other then that I wanted a base line of my reef parameters and a confirmation that everything is in order before ordering a bunch of corals.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

This right here.
Trust a properly calibrated refractometer, not one calibrated with rodi.

Randy Holmes-Farley has an article on a diy calibration fluid. Use that to calibrate and report back.

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/index.php

I will give it a read and report tonight.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

I calibrated it with Ro/Di just for fun and it actually gave me a reading of 35.9ppt but I didn't considered it accurate since it was with Ro/Di.

The observable problem was, the occasional diatom bloom after a water change so I wanted to see the silicate level in my RO water but other then that I wanted a base line of my reef parameters and a confirmation that everything is in order before ordering a bunch of corals.

I will give it a read and report tonight.

So I followed the recipe and mixed the correct salt/water ratio and calibrated my refractometer to 35ppt. I went to my tank took a sample and got 35ppt. I took my Hanna salinity tester out for a test and also got 35ppt.
I guess my last water change fixed the issue without knowing.I will buy a calibration fluid when I order my corals to make sure.

 

[Dburr1014]

So I followed the recipe and mixed the correct salt/water ratio and calibrated my refractometer to 35ppt. I went to my tank took a sample and got 35ppt. I took my Hanna salinity tester out for a test and also got 35ppt.
I guess my last water change fixed the issue without knowing.I will buy a calibration fluid when I order my corals to make sure.

Um, you just made calibration fluid that was developed by a scientist, checked it, and found it worked.
Now you want to go out and buy premade calibration fluid that was made by a minium wage blue collar worker that has no stock in your tank. They have been found to be incorrect at times.
Personally, if stick with the DIY version.

 

[SomeHappyFish]

Um, you just made calibration fluid that was developed by a scientist, checked it, and found it worked.
Now you want to go out and buy premade calibration fluid that was made by a minium wage blue collar worker that has no stock in your tank. They have been found to be incorrect at times.
Personally, if stick with the DIY version.

True, I could invest in a more accurate scale for my other hobbies

Joke aside, I decided to check the ICP batch code of my Aquaforest Sea Salt and it had none existent values of some of the Macro Elements.

Sea Salt:
Strontium (Sr) 0.00 mg/l
Iodine (I) 0.00 mg/l

Reef Salt:
Strontium (Sr) 7.27mg/l
Iodine 0.05mg/l

This might explain why I saw an improvement in my Zoa and Alveopora polyps after gradually switching salt.

Water Change 1: 10% made of
50% of Sea Salt
50% of Reef Salt

WT 2: 10% made of
50% of Sea Salt
50% of Reef Salt

WT 3: 10% made of
100% of Reef Salt

It was mainly at the last water change that I saw a big improvement in my alveopora polyps. Maybe because of the Sr & I elements being introduced in my tank.

I will continue with the weekly water change before adding Sr, I or F on it's own.