My first reef - CADE 1200 S2/P

[findingsimple]

=== Table of Contents ===

* Diatom Bloom
* Cycle Considered Finished - added 2 Clowns + CUC
* Plumbed in Clarisea with Vectra s2
* Added lawnmower blennie + mimic tang
* Auto water changes using Versa
* Added first corals (a few small zoa frags)
* Added flame hawkfish and then moved him to separate tank
* Added some torches + dispar anthias
* Hitchhiker ID - tldr; bristleworms (separate post)
* First death/s - dispar anthia/s (separate post)
* Added red eye fairy wrasse and carpenter flasher wrasse

=====================

Current Livestock - Updated 28th Feb 2023

* Clowns (2)
* Lawnmower Blennie
* Mimic Tang (lemonpeel)
* Flame Hawkfish
* Dispar Anthias (2)
* Carpenter Flasher Wrasse

* Astrea snail (1)
* Zombie snails (4)
* Strombs (2)
* Turbo Snails
* Dove Snails
* Stomatella Snails

* Blue Maxima Clam

* Dark Purple Frogspawn

* 24k Aussie Gold Torch
* Joker Torch
* Green Ultra Torch
* Green Tip Ultra Torch
* Rasta Ultra Torch (I think its just a yellow tip tbh)
* Pale Purple Torch
* Green with purple tip Torch

* Gold flake/tip hammer/torch cross - its weird it has long polyps but odd shaped tips like a hammer

* Goldrush Hammer
* Jellybean Hammer
* Gold Hammer
* Pale Blue Hammer
* Blue Hammer

* Green Glitter Goni
* Pink and Blue Goni

* Real Teal Acro
* Cookie Monster Acro
* Wald Disney Acro
* Teal Cluster Acro

* Red Montipora Cap

* Zoas

* Red and Blue Acan

* Green open brain corals (2)

* Fireworks Clove polyps

* Star mat (eaten by Astrea or Blennie - hopefully will come back)

=====================

Posted my intro post, now here is my build thread.

I'll begin with where it is currently at (as of January 10, 2023....

And then go back to the beginning....

My dad had large fresh water tanks when I was very little and I've always loved aquariums, the ocean and beach. Last year I was lucky to go snorkeling on the great barrier reef.

In December while I was taking a month leave from work I randomly got the crazy idea to spend some time investigating what it would take to set up a reef tank. One visit to my LFS and a day later I'd somehow ordered an Aquarium and a bunch of items I barely knew what to do with such as...

* CADE 1200 S2/P White
* Ecotech Vectra M2 Return Pump
* Deltec 600 Protein Skimmer
* ClariSea Roller Filter
* A couple Ai Hydra 32HD Reef LEDs + hanging kits
* A couple Nano 5 Powerheads
* Teco TK 1000 Chiller
* Sand
* A couple heaters

A week later all the items including the tank were delivered and I had the task ahead of me to build and figure out how the plumbing and all the bits and pieces work together (which was going to be a lot of fun - and a wee bit of stress)

I had about a week to wait for an initial delivery of water so I started looking at Rocks and scaping. This was my initial attempt with an assortment of rock we purchased. I later decided I needed some more for the right.

Water was eventually delivered. First time plumbing I only had 1 major issue leaving water spilling our of the weir onto the floor but the LFS staff quickly helped me figure out the issues.

Once full I had to go through the murky phase while things settled.

I've since done some shuffling around in the sump, remove the clarisea while I wait for a new pump to get flow to it and added the refugium divider back in.

Things I've learned / figuring out

* Water evaporates really - I mean really - quickly in this set up. I quickly realised I needed to go out and purchase an RO/DI unit and make use of the ATO. I ended up getting one of the Auto Aqua ATO duo controllers. It'll been working really well
* Protein skimmer is running a bit wet most of the time - I try to tweak but from what I can tell, due to the lack of stuff in the water this is probably expected and it is also braking in.
* The Clarisea doesn't really fit nicely connected to the main drain in this CADE so I've got a Vectra S2 on order that i'll use to pump from the sump into it and I'll leave the filter cups as well.
* I didn't think I needed the chiller - but on a few of the warmer days we've it has kicked in and turned on. The teco seems a little noisier that I was expecting - but maybe my expectations weren't right
* It's nice being able to run the pump, lights and power heads through the mobius app. The Vectra was a little frustrating during setup in that it resets to running max speed initially and I was not ready for it
* Water temp stability is pretty hard - what is considered stable?
* What little gadgets do people recommend for cable / pipe management in the sump

Next things on my list
* Get through cycling........killing me not having any fish at the moment. Cycling isn't going as I expected - I'll post on that seprately.
* Better setup for water parameter testing and monitoring - using API test kit and apparently that is not good.
* Setup clarisea fleece roller with pump
* Figure out salt water mixing and an auto water change system (looking at using a couple ecotech versas)
* Set up the Refugium

 

[AydenLincoln]

Awesome looking forward to your progress. As for the chiller I’d be careful not to drop the temperature to much. Heaters and chillers are counterintuitive to each other. Chillers are for cold water tanks and heaters for tropical tanks. Look into cooling fans instead. I know you already bought the chiller but they are so expensive and unnecessary in a tropical reef tank even if the environment gets warm as there’s other ways to control/monitor temperature. I’d recommend an InkBird temperature controller and cooling fans/being able to carefully monitor and adjust the environment as needed. In the first few months to a year especially during cycling and in a new tank expect swings in parameters and less stability especially in a smaller tank. Regular testing and weekly/bi-weekly water changes are the best things for the tank as well as appropriate stocking and adequate filtration/equipment.

 

[findingsimple]

Cycling....

I'm just about to kick off week 4 of trying to cycle. My LFS gave me some Seachem stability to use for bacteria and some ammonia. I also added a couple pinches of feed during week 2.

Ammonia has been at 1ppm since start of week 2 - I haven't seen any large spikes but I didn't test until this week (2) so possibly I missed some action while the sand was settling etc.
Nitrite has been a consistent 0 ppm
Nitrate has been at 0 most of the time as well with a few tiny spikes (2.5 to 5ppm) on a few random days.
ph has been a consistent 8.2ppm

LFS had my media for a few weeks in their sump to help kick things along - I added it to my system in week 2.

I tested my ATO water and it looks to have ~ 0.25ppm Ammonia.

I'm not sure if things are heading in the right trajectory or not. I'm trying to be patient but I'd sure love to get something in the tank to look at other than rock.

 

[AydenLincoln]

Cycling....

I'm just about to kick off week 4 of trying to cycle. My LFS gave me some Seachem stability to use for bacteria and some ammonia. I also added a couple pinches of feed during week 2.

Ammonia has been at 1ppm since start of week 2 - I haven't seen any large spikes but I didn't test until this week (2) so possibly I missed some action while the sand was settling etc.
Nitrite has been a consistent 0 ppm
Nitrate has been at 0 most of the time as well with a few tiny spikes (2.5 to 5ppm) on a few random days.
ph has been a consistent 8.2ppm

LFS had my media for a few weeks in their sump to help kick things along - I added it to my system in week 2.

I tested my ATO water and it looks to have ~ 0.25ppm Ammonia.

I'm not sure if things are heading in the right trajectory or not. I'm trying to be patient but I'd sure love to get something in the tank to look at other than rock.

Do you have an RODI unit or are you getting water at your lfs? I’d recommend buying one!

 

[findingsimple]

Do you have an RODI unit or are you getting water at your lfs? I’d recommend buying one!

Yep got one, its been very useful!

 

[findingsimple]

Also noticing my sand is starting to get pink tinge in lower flow spots the last few days. I've turned off the lights and turned up the flow.

 

[KING KONG]

Also noticing my sand is starting to get pink tinge in lower flow spots the last few days. I've turned off the lights and turned up the flow.

Probably cyanobacteria/red slime. They r Normal in new tanks and will go away it's own. Cyanobacteria loves still water and light. Whatever it is u can remove it by directing a powerhead to it and don't let it settle. U can reduce white light but if tank is new, probably they will go away by it's own. Still pics may help

 

[Devaji]

nice set up man. looks like you're off to a great start.
the new white Cade stands are nice. just missed the US release for those or might have pick up the largest pen. one.

 

[findingsimple]

Still pics may help

Some pics from this morning. Its actually more brown in daylight (with tank lights off)

 

[findingsimple]

Cycling....

.....

I'm not sure if things are heading in the right trajectory or not. I'm trying to be patient but I'd sure love to get something in the tank to look at other than rock.

Picked up a Red Sea Test Kit to see if there was much of a difference

~0.3 Ammonia
~0.1 Nitrite
~1 Nitrate

 

[Fishy888]

Awesome tank! API ammonia will always measure 0.25 ppm even if your water is clean as a whistle. The 1 ppm reading is suspect at best. I’d get a Salifert ammonia kit or the hanna checker for ammonia. If you have a LFS near you that uses Salifert or Red Sea to test your water then I would go there for a second opinion so to speak.

 

[Fishy888]

Some pics from this morning. Its actually more brown in daylight (with tank lights off)

There may be some cyano trying to form but I see mainly diatoms. Once the silicon in the sand gets used up they’ll go away.

Diatoms indicate your ammonia isn’t really as dire as 1 ppm. That’s good news. In a couple weeks you’ll start seeing green algae. Some people suggest that once diatoms form you can add fish but I prefer to wait until green algae of some type starts growing. I find that green micro algae is the first green algae I see in a new tank. At that point go get some fish.

 

[findingsimple]

If you have a LFS near you that uses Salifert or Red Sea to test your water then I would go there for a second opinion so to speak.

I think my LFS uses the API tests to be honest. I picked up the Red Sea one and did tests this morning and the ammonia level was ~0.3ppm.

Once the silicon in the sand gets used up they’ll go away.

Oh thats good news - thank you! I originally though it was red/pink but definitely on the browner side in regular light.

In a couple weeks you’ll start seeing green algae. Some people suggest that once diatoms form you can add fish but I prefer to wait until green algae of some type starts growing.

Nice, thanks for the info/tip. I'll wait a bit more

 

[hikebikebrew]

Congrats on your tank, looking good so far! I'm waiting on my Cade 2100, but they look like amazing systems!

I know it's the old-school approach, but Just my $0.02 is that I'd think about getting a few damsels or chromis to add. It will help really push the nitrogen cycle and scratches the itch to have something in there. They're really hardy fish and are not too expensive in the event one tries carpet surfing or the ammonia runs away.

 

[Fishy888]

Congrats on your tank, looking good so far! I'm waiting on my Cade 2100, but they look like amazing systems!

I know it's the old-school approach, but Just my $0.02 is that I'd think about getting a few damsels or chromis to add. It will help really push the nitrogen cycle and scratches the itch to have something in there. They're really hardy fish and are not too expensive in the event one tries carpet surfing or the ammonia runs away.

The problem with adding fish before the cycle is complete is the the ammonia burns their gills. It’s inhumane to cycle tanks with fish. Will they survive during the cycle? Possibly. Will they suffer? Absolutely. Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank. His ammonia is 0.3 ppm still.

 

[Fishy888]

I think my LFS uses the API tests to be honest. I picked up the Red Sea one and did tests this morning and the ammonia level was ~0.3ppm.


Oh thats good news - thank you! I originally though it was red/pink but definitely on the browner side in regular light.


Nice, thanks for the info/tip. I'll wait a bit more

I forgot to ask if you’re still dosing ammonia. If so how much per day? If you’re still dosing I’d stop and ghost feed the tank. That way there will be enough for your good bacteria to feed on. I would think that in a week, possibly less, you’ll be seeing 0 ammonia and you’ll see nitrites spike. Nitrates should start climbing soon after.

 

[findingsimple]

I forgot to ask if you’re still dosing ammonia. If so how much per day? If you’re still dosing I’d stop and ghost feed the tank. That way there will be enough for your good bacteria to feed on. I would think that in a week, possibly less, you’ll be seeing 0 ammonia and you’ll see nitrites spike. Nitrates should start climbing soon after.

I haven't dosed any ammonia for a couple weeks. I ghost fed for a few days after that to see there was any difference - that's roughy when ammonia started sitting at 1 - I was struggling to get it to 1 with dosing using the recommended amounts on the bottle

 

[findingsimple]

This is a google sheet with test results (once I started testing)

 

[findingsimple]

Congrats on your tank, looking good so far! I'm waiting on my Cade 2100, but they look like amazing systems!

I know it's the old-school approach, but Just my $0.02 is that I'd think about getting a few damsels or chromis to add. It will help really push the nitrogen cycle and scratches the itch to have something in there. They're really hardy fish and are not too expensive in the event one tries carpet surfing or the ammonia runs away.

Thanks! The glass in them is amazing, love it

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Congrats on your tank, and best of luck with it!!