My Easy approach to Amphidinium dinoflagellates

Paul.martin

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I have a 50 gallon cube, sump, sand, ATS, radion LED, Protein skimmer, my aquascape is fairly easy to remove in sections. My troubles with Dinos coincided with overzealous Iron supplementation and low nutrients. I lost many corals and anemones to the infestation. I am not sure if my approach has been described previously.

I have a theory (I think others believe the same as well) that dinos sequester iron and iron creates a bloom. I tried elevated temperatures, silica, nitrate and po4 supplementation, blackout, bacteria supplementation and those approaches were not helpful at all. Going with the theory that my strain of dinos thrive on iron, my approach involved removing only the dinos (with the sequestered iron) and nothing else and trying to not replenish any iron source.
I bought a Marineland Magnum Polishing Internal Filter, followed the instructions and charged it with diatomaceous earth. I siphoned out the dino infested sand into a 5 gallon bucket and “polished” the water with the “charged” marineland filter. I then returned the same polished water and sand back into my system. Dinos were caked on the filter and washed off in the backyard. Rocks were hosed down with a high pressure garden hose. I repeated the same process (just sand, not the rocks) about 3 or 4 times over a period of about a month, each time I noticed far fewer dinos than the previous. It has been about a month since I have finished the process. I understand that I have not eliminated them, however, there are so few spots left, that I have to look hard to see them. I also understand that the silica, nitrate, po4 supplementation could have caught up and helped with the dinos, however, the filter was very efficacious with immediate results. I hope this helps.
 

taricha

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direct cell export of dinos is a great conservative treatment, should be a part of what anyone does. Whatever dinos need is being removed by cell export. Well done.
 

Willis19

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direct cell export of dinos is a great conservative treatment, should be a part of what anyone does. Whatever dinos need is being removed by cell export. Well done.
Agree, but that means that I cannot glue corals to the rocks
 

taricha

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Agree, but that means that I cannot glue corals to the rocks
Vacuum out by siphoning through a tube should be fine for sucking out around rock & coral.
 
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Paul.martin

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Can you use a turkey baster and blow off the Dinos on to the sand? Then siphon.
 

Willis19

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I’m not sure why that would be ill advised. I’ve had good luck with that approach
Yeah, someones have said that they cannot explain why but every time they disturb the sand things get crazy with dinos
 

taricha

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Yeah, someones have said that they cannot explain why but every time they disturb the sand things get crazy with dinos
Disturbing the sand in a way that mixes aerobic and anaerobic zones can cause a brief flush of small amounts of nutrients of a number of types.
In the short-term this might look like it creates a setback, but it is not harmful long-term. Especially if it forces cells into the water to contact UV. Also this is just a concerned with large disturbances of the sand, blowing off rocks and coral etc does not cause this issue.
 

rmurken

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Interesting. I applied a similar theory, but different methodology, to deal with what I took to be dino, based on the snotty, bubbly appearance.

Vacuumed out the obvious stuff, taking a generous amount of sand with it. Dumped the water and treated the sand with peroxide. Looked like rusty water. Rinsed well and returned to the tank. Repeated as other patches developed. In the meantime kept PO4 and NO3 up, dosed MB7, and dosed silica. Seeing only the slightest browning of sand in spots now—not clear what it is, and can’t get a good enough sample to scope it. Knock on wood, seems to have worked.
 

Dodger

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I have roughly scooped off the top layer of sand. Vacuumed out the rest of the sand. Added flourish to increase my phosphates because they were low and added silicates. My diatoms and green algae are starting to bloom. Finger’s crossed, it has only been a few days. I will let you know in a few weeks how it is going.
 

Dodger

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Interesting. I applied a similar theory, but different methodology, to deal with what I took to be dino, based on the snotty, bubbly appearance.

Vacuumed out the obvious stuff, taking a generous amount of sand with it. Dumped the water and treated the sand with peroxide. Looked like rusty water. Rinsed well and returned to the tank. Repeated as other patches developed. In the meantime kept PO4 and NO3 up, dosed MB7, and dosed silica. Seeing only the slightest browning of sand in spots now—not clear what it is, and can’t get a good enough sample to scope it. Knock on wood, seems to have worked.
How are you now?
 

Dodger

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Hello Again, It has been a two weeks now. I have been adding 10 drops of silicate into the aquarium every day and about a mL of flourish to keep my phosphates up. The silicate test kit from salifer does not show any reading, but I can see them under the microscope when I look. Don't bother with it. Waste of money. I have diatoms growing all over the glass and green algae is taking over where there is no coraline algae. Its not as bad as some I have seen though. Looking under the microscope I see mostly algae. My sand looks almost clear. I saw 'a' dinoflagellate under the microscope. I am cautiously optimistic that this has worked.
Not quite sure where to go from here, but think that I will keep dosing for a few more weeks. Sift out the sand through a 1 mm sock and return dirty water. Easier to get rid of algae than dino's.
 
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