My 2nd Tang has died. Help me learn from this.

Lester Verano

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I've now been in the saltwater aquarium hobby for approximately 4 months, and have NEVER owned an aquarium before this. In this 4 month time I've now lost my second tang fish. SO, minus $110.00 all together. I originally purchased 2 damsels, a cinnamon clown, and an all purple dotty back pseudochromis. All the original fish are alive and well. Please read on, and hear my story.

I found an unbelievable powder brown tang that appeared to show no signs of illness. Since I choose not to do quarantine, since I don't have the means to do it proper anyway, I at least try my best to purchase fish that look as healthy as possible. Long story short, I'm a newbie, and I didn't acclimate the fish, and it died in under a week with no visible signs of sickness other than it layed down and died. The aquarium store told me it was probably shock from the salinity jump from 1.019 in the pet store to 1.025 in my tank. Lesson learned. I watched it gasp for air at the bottom of my tank and then my beautiful powder brown tang died. I was devastated, but I chose to learn from it. The end.

Before any members of the forum begin with me a lecture on quarantine and acclimation importance, please be advised I am new, but I am well read on many basics in the hobby. I agree with doing quarantine, and now of course I see how important acclimation is too, but with all that said, I would appreciate if we could stay on the topic I'm about to expound upon here.

I was discouraged about tangs after the powder brown tang died, but wasn't willing to give up on tangs. I did a little research and decided the hardiest tang I could get was the Yellow Eyed Kole Tang. Ok, now, before I go any further:

Alkalinity good range
PH good range
Temperature 77.5 to 83.5 swing (got a fan, so now only goes up to about 82 on a hot day)
Salinity 1.024 to 1.025
Ammonia zero
Phosphates zero
Nitrates approximately 20 to 30 PPM (working on this, just added matrix, heard good things about it)
Calcium approximately 400, I use purple up, and it's the only thing I add to my tank and it keeps my calcium high.

So after I had gotten over the loss of my powder brown tang I got my confidence back up to buy a Yellow Eye Kole Tang. At the store the fish looked healthy with no signs of illness whatsoever, and none of the fish in the tank I got the Kole tang out of looked ill either. I brought the kole home, acclimated him for a half hour with a drip, and added him to the tank. within a week every fish in my tank had parasites and sunken belly. PAUSE right here: Lesson number two learned; always dip or do SOMETHING before adding a new fish to your tank. Ok, moving on. So I removed all my carbon and treated my 55 gallon Oceanic with General Cure API over 4 days and cured everything with all of my fish except the Kole Tang. The kole still did not look right.

I called the pet store at the onset of my Kole tang getting sick, and yet before any of my other fish started showing signs of parasites. I described to the person on the other end of the line that my kole tang had a big white spot on the side of his body. It did not look like ICH, because it was located in just one area about the size of a small finger print. It looked like it had scratches in it, but mostly looked like a pale white patch. Later I started to see white coming in through the face, and later when the symptoms were at their worst I could see a very big white spot underneath the front belly fin getting very pale. You can still see that white spot in the first of the dead fish pics below. The 18 to 20 something fish store guy, who probably forgot more about this hobby in his young life than I will probably ever know said it was parasites. He was right, but I don't know how all the way right he was.

By the time the Kole tangs symptoms were at their worst all my other fish started showing sunken belly, and I could actually see parasites coming out of my pseudochromis. My General Cure API had just arrived in the mail and so I started treatment.

Now I've already mentioned above that all the fish got better after the General Cure API treatment, but the Kole tang still wasn't quite right. What I meant by that is, the kole tangs white spots were improved, but not gone. I then started feeding all the fish medicated pellets made for battling parasites, just for good measure, and the kole tang started to look even better after only a day or two of feeding the pellets. Things seemed like they were going back to normal, and so I turned my skimmer back on and placed the carbon back in my canister filter so we all could get on with our lives. And 4 days after this my beloved Yellow Eyed $65.00 Kole Tang is dead long before he had his VISA worked off.

So about Two days ago, prior to the time of this post, I noticed my Kole tang gets this outbreak of ICH like spots all over his body, but yet it did not look like the actual photos of ICH that I've seen in my fish studies. The spots on my tang looked like he had very very tiny micro air bubbles all over him. He went from being active and eating seaweed and pellets like a hog, to being absolutely not interested in food and covered with these micro bubble looking specs all over him overnight. I figured I had time to deal with this, so I ordered up some Furan-2, thinking this was bacterial. None of my other fish had these symptoms. All my other fish are still looking great, eating great, acting great, everything, but my Yellow Eye Kole Tang is dead, so the $65.00 dollar question is "Why is my Yellow Eyed Kole Tang Dead?".

The span of time it took for this sickness to kill my fish was under two days. I noticed it one day, and the next day I noticed it was getting worse, so I ordered medicine. I got home from work tonight to find my kole tang dead as the library on Saturday night. The pictures attached here are not the best, but you can see that white spot on the belly fin in pic one. That's the biggest piece of evidence I saved. I should of taken a photo while the fish was still dead in the tank, but I could not bare it. I just wanted to get him out of there and get to my computer and start typing.

I hope beginners and seasoned aquarist members of the community forum can learn from this, and maybe teach me something the school of hard knocks left out. Thanks for taking the time to give this a read if you are still here. I love tangs, but form now on I'm sticking with the dirt cheapest hardiest fish I can find for $30.00 dollars and under. No more tangs for me, I'm not ready.

On a final note. I do have an extremely well oxygenated tank. Super surface agitation with a IceCap gets it done. Also, I noticed the last time I saw my tang alive, his face actually looked sunken. I almost wonder if the parasites got him, or maybe velvet?

IMG_2724.jpeg IMG_2725.jpeg IMG_2726.jpeg
 
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Old Fritz

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Sorry about your difficulty in the hobby. If im honest i wouldn't even bother getting tangs if you dont have a qt setup. Some other fish you can get away with a good portion of the time but tangs are a no go. The sudden appearance of white dots on it sounds like velvet. I once messed with salinity in my tank before i had a qt and literally the next day all my fish were just coated in velvet. Best treatment for velvet is copper. However if it was air bubbles je might've been swimming into an area with high flow which again is a symptom of velvet. I would treat your main tank because your other fish may not show symptoms but there is more than likely residual velvet in the water column or hanging out in fish gills
 
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Lester Verano

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Sorry about your difficulty in the hobby. If im honest i wouldn't even bother getting tangs if you dont have a qt setup. Some other fish you can get away with a good portion of the time but tangs are a no go. The sudden appearance of white dots on it sounds like velvet. I once messed with salinity in my tank before i had a qt and literally the next day all my fish were just coated in velvet. Best treatment for velvet is copper. However if it was air bubbles je might've been swimming into an area with high flow which again is a symptom of velvet. I would treat your main tank because your other fish may not show symptoms but there is more than likely residual velvet in the water column or hanging out in fish gills
Thank you for the reply! And yes, you said one thing I DEFINITELY noticed, my Kole tang was swimming into the power head before it died. I never saw him do this.

Shortly after doing this write up, I quick internet search revealed my poor Kole tang had ALL the symptoms of velvet. Now, I have this problem. All the other fish in my tank are at risk. I have 4. A cinnamon clown, a dotty back, and two damsels. I have no money for salt or a hospital tank right now. I wonder how this will end.... ugh.. I guess copper treatment and remove my snails.. Not a lot of choices..
 

Old Fritz

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Thank you for the reply! And yes, you said one thing I DEFINITELY noticed, my Kole tang was swimming into the power head before it died. I never saw him do this.

Shortly after doing this write up, I quick internet search revealed my poor Kole tang had ALL the symptoms of velvet. Now, I have this problem. All the other fish in my tank are at risk. I have 4. A cinnamon clown, a dotty back, and two damsels. I have no money for salt or a hospital tank right now. I wonder how this will end.... ugh.. I guess copper treatment and remove my snails.. Not a lot of choices..
petco has a dollar per gallon sale going on right now. but what I would recommend is keeping your corals in something small if possible and treating the whole display tank. Or you could even get a five gallon bucket and put a cheap hang on the back filter
 

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Sorry to hear of your struggles. :( It does sound like velvet to me.

I would recommend moving your current inhabitants to a QT and treating them with copper. Then allow your DT to be fallow for at least 6 weeks. Velvet will likely create problems for your other inhabitants over time, especially new additions. Velvet is not something you want in your tank, or try to manage.

Tangs definitely require some additional care in the beginning for long term success. I keep 8 in a 200g system. Mine all go through a strict QT process including prophylactic treatment before introducing them to my DT's.

There are members on this forum that employ management techniques that require additional equipment and methods that can control free swimming parasite populations (UV, diatom filters, oxydators, etc.). However, my choice is to prophylactically treat ALL of my fish so I don't have to worry about any parasites.

With certain fish that have thin mucus coats (especially tangs) not having any method for parasite control/erradication will likely repeat your previous experience over and over. Best of luck moving forward and let us know how we can help!
 

Daniel@R2R

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Agreed. Don't treat the DT with copper if you plan to put inverts back in there (corals, snails, nems, etc.). Instead, get a QT set up as soon as is possible to treat your fish. I know you may not be able to do it right away, but as soon as is possible. Also, maybe someone near you has a tank they aren't using that they could loan you for treating the fish?
 
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Lester Verano

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So much enthusiasm and support here already. Makes me think about staying in the hobby for the long haul again.

I have acquired a NOS Oceanic 30 gallon tank and it will for now on be my QT tank. Lessons learned, I will never again not quarantine. As for my current issues. I woke up this morning and my pseudo was covered in ICk, which strangely only stayed on him for a few hours. My clown had no visible signs, but slow reflexes. I rushed 40 miles to a store before work today so I could get a cure for these guys. They are like my friends, and I actually feel bad about all this. Anyway, the 40 year salt aquarium veteran says don’t use copper, it’ll get sponged up by rocks and kill stuff later, etc. He talked me into Ruby Rally. It’s made here in Maryland where I live, so at least I know it’s probably fresh stock. I Dosed it before I left for work, took out all carbon, and now I’m looking forward to see how my fish are doing tonight after work. I’ll be posting updates.

I Would also like to talk about my setup on another thread and stuff like that after I’m through with this velvet mess. I didn’t combine kick inch, simply because I could not afford it. Thanks all for being here!
 

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Hello, Ruby Rally is not an effective treatment for velvet. It does contain formalin but at a low concentration. There is not much that is effective as 2ppm copper. However, rock and sand will absorb it, so you will need to treat the tank afterwards.

I suggest getting a large UV sterilizer and running it at low flow rates. I have a large tank and had a ick & velvet issue. After adding a 90w Promax sterilizer I have not had any fish diseases. It will also help keep your water clear.
 
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Lester Verano

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Hello, Ruby Rally is not an effective treatment for velvet. It does contain formalin but at a low concentration. There is not much that is effective as 2ppm copper. However, rock and sand will absorb it, so you will need to treat the tank afterwards.

I suggest getting a large UV sterilizer and running it at low flow rates. I have a large tank and had a ick & velvet issue. After adding a 90w Promax sterilizer I have not had any fish diseases. It will also help keep your water clear.
Ive considered it. And now that you say this I might as well go ahead with a sterilizer. Unfortunately I’m waiting another 10 days before I can go out and buy one, so I’m counting on the rally. I’ve heard good and bad reviews about it, now it’s my time to see what it can or cannot do, this Ruby Rally.
 
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Lester Verano

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Agreed. Don't treat the DT with copper if you plan to put inverts back in there (corals, snails, nems, etc.). Instead, get a QT set up as soon as is possible to treat your fish. I know you may not be able to do it right away, but as soon as is possible. Also, maybe someone near you has a tank they aren't using that they could loan you for treating the fish?
I came home tonight and everyone is doing ok. The pseudochromis Dotty Back was by far the worst, and he is eating very good tonight. All the fish ate pretty good. I'm going to stay on the treatment path with the Ruby Rally, it seems to be working. The dotty looks banged up, probably from scratching itself on the rocks, but no signs of speck or spot on him. I'm keeping you all posted day by day.

Also, picking up an AA green killing machine. Almost a thousand reviews on Amazon, and holding strong with 4 1/2 star rating. That's saying something.
 
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Jon Fishman

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You will probably kill tangs with stress in a 55g even if you rid the tank of disease. I would suggest looking into other fish options
 
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Lester Verano

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You will probably kill tangs with stress in a 55g even if you rid the tank of disease. I would suggest looking into other fish options
I can’t really see ever spending big money on another tang after losing two. That’s simply foolish spending on top of foolish spending.
I gave it the best chance I could afford. I’d rather spend my money on some more equipment and much cheaper hardier fish to keep me happy. I don’t want to be in the hobby to always have worry about expensive fish dying and then be miserable when a$65.00 fish dies on me. It defeats the whole point of having the aquarium, which is to sit down by it with a Beer after work and enjoy looking at it.
 
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Lester Verano

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Dotty Back is dead today. Down to one cinnamon clown and two damsels. All i know is i"m not getting any fish again for a while.
 

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I never quarantine tangs or anything else for that matter but only buy fish that have been in the shop for sometime

I have 9 tangs in my tank and they are all very healthy

Is there and bullying by the damsels?

That’s unfortunately a beginner mistake
They are cheap and hardy
And hence ideal beginners fish in so many ways

But they are very aggressive for their size
 
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Lester Verano

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I never quarantine tangs or anything else for that matter but only buy fish that have been in the shop for sometime

I have 9 tangs in my tank and they are all very healthy

Is there and bullying by the damsels?

That’s unfortunately a beginner mistake
They are cheap and hardy
And hence ideal beginners fish in so many ways

But they are very aggressive for their size
 

mowens3

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I choose not to do quarantine, since I don't have the means to do it proper anyway,

Always quarantine. Sounds like you had an Ich outbreak. After treatment with general cure, you should be treating with copper in QT. You should let your display run fallow for 12 weeks. You can put a new fish in the display after the ich parasite has run it's lifecycle and died off.
 
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Lester Verano

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I never quarantine tangs or anything else for that matter but only buy fish that have been in the shop for sometime

I have 9 tangs in my tank and they are all very healthy

Is there and bullying by the damsels?

That’s unfortunately a beginner mistake
They are cheap and hardy
And hence ideal beginners fish in so many ways

But they are very aggressive for their size

Jim_Fitz you are Thomas the unbeliever and have been very fortunate. I too was a very short time ago Thomas the unbeliever.
I tell you, it’s sickening to watch fish die and money go in the toilet, or if your a garbage disposal guy, the garbage disposal.
My 4 fish were doing good for months until I introduced the Kole tang, who must have brought the marine velvet. Now it’s a fight for survival. I laid a pseudochromis to rest this morning, and have two damsels and a cinnamon clown left. The clown looks good but isn’t acting completely himself. I’m done with expensive meds at this point. If everything dies I’ll leave the tank sit for a couple months with lights out, and start over again with fish later. I did a small water change today and turned my skimmer back on. I’m just gonna ride it out now and see where things go. I am highly considering a deep blue sterilizer for around $200 bucks this pay, but I dunno. I might also like to upgrade my 55 gallon tank to a nicer 65 gallon and just start over with 65 gallons of new water and transplant everything to the new tank. Then see how things are for a couple months before adding anymore new life.
 
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Lester Verano

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Always quarantine. Sounds like you had an Ich outbreak. After treatment with general cure, you should be treating with copper in QT. You should let your display run fallow for 12 weeks. You can put a new fish in the display after the ich parasite has run it's lifecycle and died off.
I totally agree, please read my last post, which better explains what I plan to do. I might still try to set up a QT tank in time to save the clown if I see any issues with him... I don’t care for the damsels too much. I don’t really have what I need right now for a proper QT tank, but I agree it’s the only way. I am no longer Thomas the unbeliever.
 

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