Moving to a house with old wiring. Concerns with power.

[CRABDADDY]

Hey all,

I'm moving to a old house later this year. The house has no grounds in the outlets. I know the breakers frequently trip when too much power is drawn. I have very limited knowledge of electrical work. What I'm wondering is how I can make it safer for my tank. In the research I've done so far it seems like installing a GFIC outlet would probably be a good idea. It's not my house, so I don't plan on making such investments like redoing the wiring in the house.

Are there any other recommendations that would protect my reef?

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Hey all,

I'm moving to a old house later this year. The house has no grounds in the outlets. I know the breakers frequently trip when too much power is drawn. I have very limited knowledge of electrical work. What I'm wondering is how I can make it safer for my tank. In the research I've done so far it seems like installing a GFIC outlet would probably be a good idea. It's not my house, so I don't plan on making such investments like redoing the wiring in the house.

Are there any other recommendations that would protect my reef?

I'm an electrician.

First Does this house have aluminum wiring?

When you say no ground in the receptacle, do you mean it's all 2 wire outlets without the ground hole? I believe this is what you mean, which the wire most likely will only have one current carrying conductor and one grounding conductor, missing the grounded conductor.( so one hot and neutral wire missing the ground) For this in order to have a standard looking receptacle it is permitted to install a gfci receptacle in place of the two wire receptacle.

What type of panel does this have is it upgraded? Or is it a glass type screw in fuse holeder panel?

 

[CRABDADDY]

Thanks for your reply! Yes, the outlets are the 2 wire outlets without the ground hole. I haven't taken a look at the panel, or the type of wiring, but I will be over there tonight and I can get some photos to post here. How would I tell whether the wiring is copper or aluminum?

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Thanks for your reply! Yes, the outlets are the 2 wire outlets without the ground hole. I haven't taken a look at the panel, or the type of wiring, but I will be over there tonight and I can get some photos to post here. How would I tell whether the wiring is copper or aluminum?

The year built can sometimes tell you but if you take off the panel cover it will be seen.

So depending on the panel and how much you are trying to do can point to some different options.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

A gfci is good but sometimes you want the tank in a spot that might not be easy to get to the outlet to reset it if it trips, so depending on a few things you could put a regular 3wire receptacle in place and protect it with a gfci breaker.

If you could take off the panel cover and get a picture I could see how the wiring looks. And a picture of where the tank is going.

If it's aluminum it makes putting in new devices a little more difficult, and requires a type of wire adapter called alumiconn's to replace the receptacle

 

[CRABDADDY]

By how much I'm trying to do, do you mean how much equipment I'm using on the tank?

I have the following equipment:
(1) mightyjet 476 Gallons Per Hour Pump - 45W 110v/60Hz
(2) Nero 5 - (variable) 30W @ 120VAC max
(2) radion xr15 - 215W, 100-240VAC, 50/60Hz
(1) sicce shark 1.0 - 16w
(1) brs titanium heater - 100W0.83A @ 120VAC
(1) kamoer f1 dosing pump
(1) tunze osmolator

I couldn't find info on how much power the last 2 draw. Sorry for the wonky formatting, but hopefully that gives you an idea of how much equipment I'm running. Neither the lights or the power heads should be running at over 50% for the most part.

I'll post some pictures, but it won't be until later tonight. Thank you so much for your help!

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

By how much I'm trying to do, do you mean how much equipment I'm using on the tank?

I have the following equipment:
(1) mightyjet 476 Gallons Per Hour Pump - 45W 110v/60Hz
(2) Nero 5 - (variable) 30W @ 120VAC max
(2) radion xr15 - 215W, 100-240VAC, 50/60Hz
(1) sicce shark 1.0 - 16w
(1) brs titanium heater - 100W0.83A @ 120VAC
(1) kamoer f1 dosing pump
(1) tunze osmolator

I couldn't find info on how much power the last 2 draw. Sorry for the wonky formatting, but hopefully that gives you an idea of how much equipment I'm running. Neither the lights or the power heads should be running at over 50% for the most part.

I'll post some pictures, but it won't be until later tonight. Thank you so much for your help!

Yes exactly so in one receptacle it's figured max draw of 1500w to be safe. So figure all your equipment at max/100% and if your under thats great!.

So next I would figure out what receptacle you want to use for your tank/equipment and see what size breaker this is on, (15amp or 20amp) also take note which other receptacles in the house are on this circuit ( keep in mind when using these for household chores and devices they all draw current on the same circuit)

Older homes are notorious for multiple rooms on one circuit, so things like space heaters coffee makers or any high demand appliances need to be strategically used in order not to trip you aquarium circuit.

 

[CRABDADDY]

Ok, great. I will check what rooms are all on the circuit I plan to use later tonight. We have 2 gaming PCs, and I'm hoping they're not both on the same circuit! I was planning on having one (650w psu) in the same room as the tank, so that would almost certainly be on the same circuit.

However, I have a couple of options as far as tank placement goes, one of which is on the other end of the house, in the living room where very few appliances are in use. That may be the better option.

I wanted to make 100% sure that the house can power my tank before I moved in and went to plug it in, finding that it can't. That would be a nightmare!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Might want an electrician to look for knob and tube wiring. I just spent thousands to remove old knob and tube wiring that was not visible on normal house purchase inspection.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Keep those gaming Pc's away from the tank and the kitchen circuits, I bet you'll be fine.

I lived in a 1920's craftsman for years with early 60's rewire (alumnium) plus a modern addition. It was a hodgepodge of what's now illegal sub panels off of a 200a main panel... Anywho the 150g tank was on a 15a breaker (original 100a panel) and I didn't have any issues. It was on a gfci outlet without the ground (tagged as such).

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Might want an electrician to look for knob and tube wiring. I just spent thousands to remove old knob and tube wiring that was not visible on normal house purchase inspection.

My old 1920's craftsman still had some on the original part of the house, along with the push button light switches (it was all modernized). You stared at it and the sheave would disintegrate.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Might want an electrician to look for knob and tube wiring. I just spent thousands to remove old knob and tube wiring that was not visible on normal house purchase inspection.

Not laughing that you spent thousands and that that happened, but those home inspectors need to earn what they charge!!!! If they are the sellers it's understandable I guess, but if they were yours shame on them for taking your money!

 

[whatuknow]

So I’m also an electrician. I’ve done 20 year’s aviation and 10 doing hvac. I just wanna say listen to mike. He’s definitely on top of it. I must admit though never heard of the aluminum adapter but thinking good idea

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

So I’m also an electrician. I’ve done 20 year’s aviation and 10 doing hvac. I just wanna say listen to mike. He’s definitely on top of it. I must admit though never heard of the aluminum adapter but thinking good idea

Thanks!

AlumiConn 3-Port Al/Cu Wire Connectors (25-Pack) 95125.0 - The Home Depot

King Innovation's AlumiConn Aluminum to Copper Lug is approved by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), UL, and numerous insurance companies as a safe method for aluminum wiring repair. Manufactured

www.homedepot.com

 

[C4ctus99]

Aluminum frickin sucks and nice to meet 2 fellow electricians! We need an electrician thread on here

+1 on what Mike said. GFCI marked as such, just make certain you make joints with some jumpers to the outlet, otherwise everything downstream on the circuit will trip with it.

Aluminum is silver colored, copper is…copper colored. You can open the panel or check behind an outlet for the actual metal color

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Not laughing that you spent thousands and that that happened, but those home inspectors need to earn what they charge!!!! If they are the sellers it's understandable I guess, but if they were yours shame on them for taking your money!

All visible wiring had been replaced in the past, and the knob and tube was only found during some remodeling work that took up attic floorboards, etc.

 

[CRABDADDY]

Ok, quick update. The wiring is copper. Circuits are sort of random, but I found 2 options without much else on them. Both breakers are 15 amps.

I'm thinking I should be in good shape if I install a GFIC outlet on either of these circuits.