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19Mateo83

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I am planning on upgrading my 14g AIO cube to a Seapora 50g (36x18x18) This will be a 100% diy stand, sump and canopy system. I plan to reuse as much of the old components and rock I have in storage and as many of the new ones i can from the 14g. I made some to scale rough drawings to figure out where stuff will fit.
Here’s the general overview. It want the overflows and return on the right side, similar to a peninsula build.
5FD9403B-7C70-4101-88E9-A4A02F1E96DB.png

The structure for this one is going to be welded steel coated in automotive bed liner with the wood front held on by magnets.
2CA69919-95C6-497B-A784-1DA5F9BCE170.png

The sump will be a 20 long with water level adjusting baffles and an area to run floss as needed. Im planning on using a oversized DC return pump (700-1000gph) so I can up the flow periodically to clear detritus when needed and a reef octopus 120 skimmer that’s been sitting in my closet for almost 12 years. I also plan to upgrade its pump to a DC.
C99D193C-490E-4D02-869A-F2DF409C6BD5.jpeg

There is also room beside the sump for dosing reservoirs with pumps above and a ATO reservoir. All the electronics will either be tucked into the end or along the top left as pictured.

D326344D-3813-423B-ADBB-BDD9FA21F302.png

The plumbing is pretty straight forward, Im going with a coast to coast style overflow running a 3 pipe durso configuration. One full siphon, one a trickle and one emergency. The overflow will be as small and as narrow as I can possibly make it. The full siphon will get a ball valve and everything will get true unions just below above stand level. The return line will have an inline uv sterilizer for use as needed and loc-line fittings with a random flow nozzle.
The lighting will be 2 a360x (already have 1) on the spectral controller. If you see anything I’ve overlooked or see anything I could do more efficiently please comment, I appreciate any and all suggestions.
 
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Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar
www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
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19Mateo83

19Mateo83

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The Seapora distributor, Royal Aquatics, confirmed today via phone call that this particular tank is plate glass on all sides except the bottom. So it IS OK to drill the sides for overflows. I had the LFS hold off on ordering the tank until this question could be answered. It will be added back on to their order first thing in the AM and I *should* come in mid week next week. Interestingly enough, in the conversation with the Royal Aquatics rep, he also explained that not all of the tanks in Seapora “standard” series have plate glass sides. It varies by tank. He also mentioned that Aquarium Masters, the manufacturer of Seapora tanks, keeps this information on the hush to keep people from DIYing their own reef ready systems instead of purchasing their factory built systems.
SO….moral of the story is…. If you have a Seapora tank and want to drill it, or are thinking about buying a Seapora tank to DIY your own system…FIND OUT if the specific model you want has tempered glass sides before you buy it and try to drill it. A couple phone calls can save you a lot of heartache.
 
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19Mateo83

19Mateo83

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I dug out some old marco rock from storage and got it in the bleach. A whole 12 gallon tote full. Im using 10% sodium hypochlorite pool chlorinator. I added 1/2 gallon to the tote and filled it to cover the rock. It will sit like this for a week or so then rinsed and dryed.
5EB7CDAB-169E-492E-AA89-19116CDE3627.jpeg
22C71D34-D727-49C3-B0A0-456716686AFB.jpeg
 
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AquaCave

Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

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  • Full colony.

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  • Other.

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