Making a sump /refugium

[Jaylivi1212]

I'm looking to turn my 20L into a temporary sump w/refugium for my 110 gallon. ( I plan on upgrading). I'm confused on how I should position the baffles, what materials to make the baffles out of and how talls should the baffles be? if anyone can post examples of theirs i'd truly appreciate it.

 

[Jimbo662]

I'd be extremely careful about using a 20g and it overflowing when you turn your return pumps off...not sure how many gallons will drain out of the display.

 

[Jaylivi1212]

I'd be extremely careful about using a 20g and it overflowing when you turn your return pumps off...not sure how many gallons will drain out of the display.

I've actually decided to use my 55gallon

 

[Jaylivi1212]

48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 21 is the tank dimensions. I'm looking to host a protein skimmer, uv sterilizer, heater in intake section.

 

[clsanchez77]

I have a 110 gallon tank and the 20 gallon would have been more than adequate. I am assuming you have the same 110 gallon, 48"x18"x30"h (same as a 75 but taller). I now use a Trigger Sys 34 gallon Sump and I have enough room for a pump off and ATO stuck on and fully pumped over plus another inch.

Most important thing is don't mix and match materials. Use glass baffles on glass tanks and acrylic baffles on acrylic tanks.

Regarding glass, I get the glass cut at a shop so they can grind the edges smooth. With glass, any basic silicone will work as you don't need high strength for baffles - but no mold inhibitors! I prefer to have the baffles cut about 1/8" short in length so they're easier to work with.

For acrylic, you have to use weld-on solvent so the cuts need to be more exact.

For your water height, refer to your skimmer documentation and set it there...skimmer should control the water height.

You do not need a dedicated area for heaters. I have mine in the pump bay but could also/or put them in the skimmer bay.

My UV is on my tank return manifold so is not in the sump. If you do have an in sump model, or a dedicated pump for it, put it after the skimmer so you are sterilizing the "cleaner" water.

You did not mention refugium, but people WAY over think these. There placement and size has been debated in the hobby for 2 decades now, if not longer. It will be fine no matter what you do, if you even use one.

For under baffles, you only need 1". For the top baffles, I prefer to go full height so the sump does not "short-cycle" when overfilled. For spacing between under-over baffles, I like 2". 1" is enough but 2" is easier to work with.

For your pump bay, make sure you have enough area that the height does not change drastically over the course of a day due to evaporation.

And remember to verify you have enough empty space to capture all potential water if your pump shut off. If you have check valves, assume they will fail, check valves will always fail at some point.

 

[glb]

I have a 110 gallon tank and the 20 gallon would have been more than adequate. I am assuming you have the same 110 gallon, 48"x18"x30"h (same as a 75 but taller). I now use a Trigger Sys 34 gallon Sump and I have enough room for a pump off and ATO stuck on and fully pumped over plus another inch.

Most important thing is don't mix and match materials. Use glass baffles on glass tanks and acrylic baffles on acrylic tanks.

Regarding glass, I get the glass cut at a shop so they can grind the edges smooth. With glass, any basic silicone will work as you don't need high strength for baffles - but no mold inhibitors! I prefer to have the baffles cut about 1/8" short in length so they're easier to work with.

For acrylic, you have to use weld-on solvent so the cuts need to be more exact.

For your water height, refer to your skimmer documentation and set it there...skimmer should control the water height.

You do not need a dedicated area for heaters. I have mine in the pump bay but could also/or put them in the skimmer bay.

My UV is on my tank return manifold so is not in the sump. If you do have an in sump model, or a dedicated pump for it, put it after the skimmer so you are sterilizing the "cleaner" water.

You did not mention refugium, but people WAY over think these. There placement and size has been debated in the hobby for 2 decades now, if not longer. It will be fine no matter what you do, if you even use one.

For under baffles, you only need 1". For the top baffles, I prefer to go full height so the sump does not "short-cycle" when overfilled. For spacing between under-over baffles, I like 2". 1" is enough but 2" is easier to work with.

For your pump bay, make sure you have enough area that the height does not change drastically over the course of a day due to evaporation.

And remember to verify you have enough empty space to capture all potential water if your pump shut off. If you have check valves, assume they will fail, check valves will always fail at some point.

Great summary! I have a 20g tall for my 40g. I skipped the bubble tracks to save room and haven't had any problems with micro bubbles in the display tank. Good luck!

 

[clsanchez77]

Great summary! I have a 20g tall for my 40g. I skipped the bubble tracks to save room and haven't had any problems with micro bubbles in the display tank. Good luck!

Thanks! Depends on your skimmer and its placement relative to the return pump. My skimmer is before the refugium so it's not an issue for me either.