KPhilly
Community Member
I've been in the hobby for a while. I used to have a 30G Cubed tank. Loved the tank, and every critter that lived inside it. Due to certain change of events (College) I had to get out of the tank. But now I have returned! I have researched and researched, until the bug finally had bit me. I'm ready for my own 150G DIY build. Canopy stand, sump, and tank! That's a lot, I know. I have a good buddy who is going to be assisting me in the build. He has more knowledge of the tools and materials we need. But even though this is a huge build, I know to stay determined because you can think about something all day, but until you jump in you will never gain the true know-how! I started this thread for three main purposes: To get advice (of course), to have a nice thread going for anyone new to the hobby or is dipping their toes in the DIY water, and for anyone who is just curious to tag along on this build. This build will take a few months because projects take time and money. I wanted to post the thread now so I can begin gaining knowledge of how to make this project even better! I'm not quite sure why I chose a 150G, more than likely because I felt it was a great size between 125G and a 200G. Eh, doesn't matter the size, just matters that I start. I'm experimenting with 3D modeling to get my idea out there more concrete and precise. May not be the typical route, but I always wanted to dabble in it anyways. For you newer or more curious fellas, I will try to post links of where I gained some of my knowledge. For you more experienced reefers, please do not hold your tongue! I am fond of constructive criticism! One last thing, I am a building science major. What better way of learning about my major then by mixing it with my hobby? Thought I'd throw that in there! Anyways, let's begin!
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SO, here she is. The front view of the mother-ship. Or at least somewhat front.. I'd thought I'd start by giving a simple run-through of a few things. I've researched but then again, I could be off. For the 150G I thought that I would go with 1/2" thickness in glass. That's all the way around (Unless 1" on the bottom could help support.) Also, when I say "All the way around," I am including the euro braces (Which for those of you who have never heard of it, I will share what knowledge I have gained of it) and all the panes pertaining to the overflow box. The measurements are 6ft in length,
1 1/2ft width, and 2 1/2ft height. That is "supposedly," the standard measurements for a 150G tank. I will post where I found these measurements here http://www.aquariumdimensions.com/
My measurements could be off, mainly because it's taken me 2 days to get the 3D model the way I felt it should be. If they are slightly off, just know it's due to lack of sleep!
Also, not that I think it matters, the model was created true to fit. I actually measured and built it off of the per-inch system. So, the program built more what it would resemble in the real world.
Alright, I'll start here with the in-depth breakdown. I kinda thought of this for my own aquarium. It's not a "I can't live without it idea." Since I am in college and living in an apartment complex, the tank will need to move later on down the road. So, I thought putting in a 1" hole to plumb, roughly 5" or 6" from the bottom (Because sand bed could could be 2" to 4" deep) that it would be a good way to drain most of the water from the aquarium. Just a thought.
Next up, is the bracing. This could be some solid information for anyone new or has never heard of "Euro Bracing." I came across this idea while searching across YouTube for bracing ideas. Glass bows, but not as much acrylic. Glass will only bow so much until it shatters and sends everything within it's borders onto your nice bedroom, living room, or wherever your aquarium is located floor. Most aquarium I see these days have the center braces that run from the front of the aquarium to the back, while crossing the middle of the tank. Works well, and is a preference by many. Others don't like it due to the fact that it can cause "shadowing," across your tank. I am one of those people. But anyways, to the point. Bracing keeps the aquarium from bowing, and also from shattering. I have seen build like mine above and they seem to be holding just fine. My only question is, will 3" width be enough or do I need 4" or more for my size tank? Also, do I need to brace the bottom? I was unsure of both. I hadn't planned on flushing mine (Siliconing it even with the top of the tank) but just placing it on top of the lip of the aquarium. I feel if it's simple and efficient, it will do just fine for me. No need to get fancy. For those curious about Euro Bracing, here's a video link.
Here's the outside shot of the overflow box. I'll get measurements out of the way. The box is located exactly 2" from the top lip of the aquarium. It is 10" in length, 3" in width, and 5" in depth (Or Height) It contains three 1" holes for the plumbing. I've decided to go with 1" plumbing and I will provide some links showing why. I have chosen to construct the "Bean-Animal," system as my choice of filtration which I will also post links of, for those who are curious. I may need to go to 1.5" plumbing though, thoughts on that are helpful. Also, not sure of the exact measurements for the braces that go under the overflow box. Tips would be great.
For information on pluming and PVC pressure
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2012/aquarium-plumbing-basics/
Info on Bean-Animal filtration
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
Video of Bean-Animal Filtration
Here's the inside of the tank, where the water actually goes over into the overflow. I set it 1" from the top (Not including where the euro brace will sit) and that should be where the water level should stay in my DT. I tried condensing the overflow, but will consider widening it if it will produce better surface skimming. The overflow is 10" in length, 1" in width, and 6" in depth. I will drill two 1" holes in between the overflow and the overflow box to allow the water to run in.
For now, that's what I have as far as the tank. I will work on modeling the plumbing, sump, and stand when I get more time. Wanted to go ahead and get the tank out there so I can start finding flaws. Forgot to mention to other DIY builders, DO NOT attempt to drill a TEMPERED tank. It will more than likely shatter. I believe there is a way to drill it, but requires more experience and resources to do so. Make sure you are drilling Non-Tempered glass panes. I have someone experienced doing mine for my first build. I like to remember the K.I.S.S. principle. "Keep It Simple Stupid," or "Keep It Super Simple." I find that works for me best! DIY is very possible and can be much cheaper. Keep an open mind, and do your research! As I mentioned earlier, any advice, ideas, or tips are welcomed. I'm not perfect, therefore my creations will not be perfect. I will post a few more pics of the model below, thank you all for any help in advanced! I'm off to bed now, the girlfriend came in once already and wasn't to happy!
SO, here she is. The front view of the mother-ship. Or at least somewhat front.. I'd thought I'd start by giving a simple run-through of a few things. I've researched but then again, I could be off. For the 150G I thought that I would go with 1/2" thickness in glass. That's all the way around (Unless 1" on the bottom could help support.) Also, when I say "All the way around," I am including the euro braces (Which for those of you who have never heard of it, I will share what knowledge I have gained of it) and all the panes pertaining to the overflow box. The measurements are 6ft in length,
1 1/2ft width, and 2 1/2ft height. That is "supposedly," the standard measurements for a 150G tank. I will post where I found these measurements here http://www.aquariumdimensions.com/
My measurements could be off, mainly because it's taken me 2 days to get the 3D model the way I felt it should be. If they are slightly off, just know it's due to lack of sleep!
Also, not that I think it matters, the model was created true to fit. I actually measured and built it off of the per-inch system. So, the program built more what it would resemble in the real world.Alright, I'll start here with the in-depth breakdown. I kinda thought of this for my own aquarium. It's not a "I can't live without it idea." Since I am in college and living in an apartment complex, the tank will need to move later on down the road. So, I thought putting in a 1" hole to plumb, roughly 5" or 6" from the bottom (Because sand bed could could be 2" to 4" deep) that it would be a good way to drain most of the water from the aquarium. Just a thought.
Next up, is the bracing. This could be some solid information for anyone new or has never heard of "Euro Bracing." I came across this idea while searching across YouTube for bracing ideas. Glass bows, but not as much acrylic. Glass will only bow so much until it shatters and sends everything within it's borders onto your nice bedroom, living room, or wherever your aquarium is located floor. Most aquarium I see these days have the center braces that run from the front of the aquarium to the back, while crossing the middle of the tank. Works well, and is a preference by many. Others don't like it due to the fact that it can cause "shadowing," across your tank. I am one of those people. But anyways, to the point. Bracing keeps the aquarium from bowing, and also from shattering. I have seen build like mine above and they seem to be holding just fine. My only question is, will 3" width be enough or do I need 4" or more for my size tank? Also, do I need to brace the bottom? I was unsure of both. I hadn't planned on flushing mine (Siliconing it even with the top of the tank) but just placing it on top of the lip of the aquarium. I feel if it's simple and efficient, it will do just fine for me. No need to get fancy. For those curious about Euro Bracing, here's a video link.
Here's the outside shot of the overflow box. I'll get measurements out of the way. The box is located exactly 2" from the top lip of the aquarium. It is 10" in length, 3" in width, and 5" in depth (Or Height) It contains three 1" holes for the plumbing. I've decided to go with 1" plumbing and I will provide some links showing why. I have chosen to construct the "Bean-Animal," system as my choice of filtration which I will also post links of, for those who are curious. I may need to go to 1.5" plumbing though, thoughts on that are helpful. Also, not sure of the exact measurements for the braces that go under the overflow box. Tips would be great.
For information on pluming and PVC pressure
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2012/aquarium-plumbing-basics/
Info on Bean-Animal filtration
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
Video of Bean-Animal Filtration
Here's the inside of the tank, where the water actually goes over into the overflow. I set it 1" from the top (Not including where the euro brace will sit) and that should be where the water level should stay in my DT. I tried condensing the overflow, but will consider widening it if it will produce better surface skimming. The overflow is 10" in length, 1" in width, and 6" in depth. I will drill two 1" holes in between the overflow and the overflow box to allow the water to run in.
For now, that's what I have as far as the tank. I will work on modeling the plumbing, sump, and stand when I get more time. Wanted to go ahead and get the tank out there so I can start finding flaws. Forgot to mention to other DIY builders, DO NOT attempt to drill a TEMPERED tank. It will more than likely shatter. I believe there is a way to drill it, but requires more experience and resources to do so. Make sure you are drilling Non-Tempered glass panes. I have someone experienced doing mine for my first build. I like to remember the K.I.S.S. principle. "Keep It Simple Stupid," or "Keep It Super Simple." I find that works for me best! DIY is very possible and can be much cheaper. Keep an open mind, and do your research! As I mentioned earlier, any advice, ideas, or tips are welcomed. I'm not perfect, therefore my creations will not be perfect. I will post a few more pics of the model below, thank you all for any help in advanced! I'm off to bed now, the girlfriend came in once already and wasn't to happy!
