Hey, so I'm still pretty new to the hobby. I currently have a nano reef tank, and I'm about to set up an 80-gallon system. It will be including a sump, and I really wanted to do a refugium. I've been hearing a lot of stuff about them, including both positive and negative opinions. Can someone tell me if refugium will be a good choice for reducing algae growth?
IS REFUGIUM GOOD OR BAD???
- Thread starter zoablasto
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Crustaceon
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I think responsible feeding practices and regular maintenance will beat a refugium when it comes to preventing nuisance algae from popping up in the display. IME, a refugium will not outcompete nuisance algae that’s already on rocks or the back panel without severely starving corals in the process. You’ll still need to do maintenance to remove it, which makes it seem a little pointless to bother with a refugium in the first place.
Mr_Knightley
2500 Club Member
I will say yes. Refugiums, if properly sized, can do wonders for an aquarium. In my large 210g setup, I have a 20-ish gallon refugium hooked to it, and it still does wonders, even with the cheap $5 lights I'm using for it lol
If you have the room for one, I would definitely add one. If you want to get some more details on how they work exactly, as well as some pros and cons, I would recommend searching the forum or youtube for "Refugium benefits".
Good luck and God bless!
If you have the room for one, I would definitely add one. If you want to get some more details on how they work exactly, as well as some pros and cons, I would recommend searching the forum or youtube for "Refugium benefits".
Good luck and God bless!
muzikalmatt
Valuable Member
Refugiums are great in my opinion. However, their main intended purpose is not to prevent algae growth in the display tank, it's to reduce the excess nutrients that lead to algae growth. An algae/turf scrubber would be closer to what you are looking for as they grow the type of algae you typically see on the rockwork. So theoretically encouraging it to grow in the scrubber would prevent it from growing in the tank. However, I've never used one so I can't speak to how effective they are at doing that.
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zoablasto
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It's going to be a 57-gallon display with a 20-gallon sump. I've been thinking about doing one for a while, but I just don't want it to release any toxins that might put any of my livestock in danger. Thank you! Will do!
muzikalmatt
Valuable Member
I think as long as you don't use caulerpa you shouldn't have any issues with toxins being released into your tank. Caulerpa can go sexual in which it basically disintegrates and releases spores into the water column so it can spread throughout the tank. I believe when it does this it can also release CO2 which can mess with the oxygen levels in your tank.
Most people use chaetomorpha in their refugiums these days which is much less risky. The only risks with chaeto is if you let it die it will release a bunch of nutrients back into the tank. While that's bad, it's not nearly as problematic as caulerpa going sexual.
Indytraveler83
Well-Known Member
I setup a 90 gallon display this winter. It's been running about 5 months, and most of the 30 gallon sump is refugium. Here's my input:
1) It has helped achieve better stability overall. If nutrients increase, so does macroalgae growth. If they decrease, growth does too.
2) Nearly free filtration- all you are doing is throwing away mounds of macroalgae when it packs the 'fuge. No need to replace pads, floss or other items. The only real cost is the initial purchase price to set it up (rather low for this hobby) and maintaining the lights on it.
I would say I use my refugium and my live rock to do 90% of filtration in my system, with an undersized (and only occasionally turned on) skimmer doing the rest.
1) It has helped achieve better stability overall. If nutrients increase, so does macroalgae growth. If they decrease, growth does too.
2) Nearly free filtration- all you are doing is throwing away mounds of macroalgae when it packs the 'fuge. No need to replace pads, floss or other items. The only real cost is the initial purchase price to set it up (rather low for this hobby) and maintaining the lights on it.
I would say I use my refugium and my live rock to do 90% of filtration in my system, with an undersized (and only occasionally turned on) skimmer doing the rest.
flabryth
Community Member
There are a ton of ways to do this hobby...I am not aware of any that will set your fish a blaze the moment they touch the water. So with that said...you should develop a method base on your view of this hobby. This means you are more likely to keep with it. Do not follow trends follow your instincts if it seems fun and keeps you going do it...the hell with everyone else's opinion.
DraggingTail
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55 gallon and 30 gallon sump with fuge. I feed very very heavily but still do 10% water changes every 2 weeks. I harvest a dense soccer ball size of chaeto every month. I don't have much algae "anymore". You have to help the corraline along by removing algae in a young tank. Once corraline takes over the gha is done. Patience
I have a JBJ nano 24 and a refugium was one of the best addition to the tank! It’s loaded with pods I run on a reverse light cycle.
Tank is 12 yo refugium is about2 years old I never dose and now use tropic marine pro salt 3 gal water change a week.SG kept at 1.027
Tank is 12 yo refugium is about2 years old I never dose and now use tropic marine pro salt 3 gal water change a week.SG kept at 1.027
gray808
Active Member
This sounds counter-intuitive to me. Why would encouraging it to grow in one area, make it not grow in another area?
It seems to me that if it is growing anywhere in your tank, it's spores or fragments, or whatever method it uses to propagate itself are going to circulate throughout the whole system, and grow anywhere the conditions are right. In fact, it would make more sense to me that if you are encouraging/growing it in one area (scrubber), you would be MORE likely to see it in other areas.
Am I reading this wrong?
--Gray
kyleinpdx
Well-Known Member
Path of least resistance. If you can force it to grow where you want it, you can keep it out of sight. If you provide the algae optimal growth parameters in a designated area, it will self select to grow in that area.
Their are many ways to run a reef system.
I am at the complete other end of the spectrum.
No fuge, low nutrient levels, no scheduled water changes, filter sock, skimmer, carx, good flow, good lighting.
Balanced system with, 11 fish, 2 large brittle stars, 2 urchins, 10 turbos, 12 bumblebee snails, 3 shrimp, 1 seahare.
Bare bottom 120 with 40 breeder sump with no baffles.
Thats about it.
For me a fuge is just extra work.
Do they work? Of course its just not the way I planned and setup my system.
My best advice is pick your system and range of parameters and stick with it as many different systems and parameters work.
Tank is 1 year old in 2 weeks. Its growing nicely and very stable.
Just took this before lights out.
I am at the complete other end of the spectrum.
No fuge, low nutrient levels, no scheduled water changes, filter sock, skimmer, carx, good flow, good lighting.
Balanced system with, 11 fish, 2 large brittle stars, 2 urchins, 10 turbos, 12 bumblebee snails, 3 shrimp, 1 seahare.
Bare bottom 120 with 40 breeder sump with no baffles.
Thats about it.
For me a fuge is just extra work.
Do they work? Of course its just not the way I planned and setup my system.
My best advice is pick your system and range of parameters and stick with it as many different systems and parameters work.
Tank is 1 year old in 2 weeks. Its growing nicely and very stable.
Just took this before lights out.
Too many people start their systems with fuges, or treat them like it's a piece of equipment. It's a process of lowering nutrients, socks, carbon, and skimming are a few others. It's a tool, process and a whole other way to run a tank.
After running one for over a year on an established tank, I doubt I will implement one again. Maybe when I am retired and have nothing better to do
After running one for over a year on an established tank, I doubt I will implement one again. Maybe when I am retired and have nothing better to do
Nilo S
Community Member
IME, a refugium (properly sized AND lighted) will clear up any tank of algae. In my case it was so effective that Dinos took over the tank, as I had 0 phosphates, so I halved the photoperiod to only 6h per day.
A single tunze ecochic refugium light is enough for me (54g tank).
A single tunze ecochic refugium light is enough for me (54g tank).
I’ll just post some pictures with a brief explanation, pictures do more justice than text IMO. I have a 40 breeder display with 20 long sump and 8 fish. Since I have anthias, I feed heavily twice a day. There’s a little 8”x12” fuge section for chaeto and it’s working wonders. Just tested my tank today, 0.5ppm NO3 (Nyos) and 0.067 ppm PO4 (hanna).
Stability is a great part of the fuge!!!
It maintains your ph levels at night ! If you run the fuge lights at night.
Also provides a great place to grow the micro “critters need for food for the tank inhabitants
Often keeps unwanted nutrients to a near zero level.
For the cost and simplicity... it’s hard to beat a properly set up fuge.
Later , and good luck!!!
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