My R/O Di water output measures 1 ppm every time on the tds meter. Up against distilled water it’s always 0 ppm and my tap water is 144 ppm! That’s pretty darn high! What do you guys think? Do I need to replace my cartridges? My deionizer has only changed color about 1/4 the way down. I haven’t used nearly the total recommended use for anything…. the sediment, RO, carbon, and deionizer. The sediment filter still looks really white. When I first bought the system everything tested at 0 ppm. I tried to control the water intake temperature during the cold winter months by turning the tap slightly to the warm side because manufacturers instructions suggested it works best at 78°F . However, I live in an apartment and I might get it right at first but it’s possible that very warm water could have run through the system periodically. I’m wondering if this didn’t mess up my membrane.
Is my R/O di failing? Should I worry?
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That is possible. What is the tds of the water coming out of the membrane? You tap water at 144 is not high my average is 382.
I would always run cold water. You will get a better rejection rate but a reduction in permeate flow.
I would always run cold water. You will get a better rejection rate but a reduction in permeate flow.
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I always run cold water. Honestly most people have theirs plumbed into the cold water line and can’t run warm if they wanted to. I never heard of a manufacture saying to use 78 degree water. Hot water will ruin your membrane.
Pre filters I replace every 6 months. RoDI only when exhausted. Membrane only when it doesn’t meet rejection rate (you test after membrane before it hits DI stage).
If you use the RO buddy (non standard filters) or cheaper filters in general them sometimes you need to replace more often. Obviously the amount of water you make affects how often you change as well.
Your TDS isn’t that high.
Pre filters I replace every 6 months. RoDI only when exhausted. Membrane only when it doesn’t meet rejection rate (you test after membrane before it hits DI stage).
If you use the RO buddy (non standard filters) or cheaper filters in general them sometimes you need to replace more often. Obviously the amount of water you make affects how often you change as well.
Your TDS isn’t that high.
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The manufacturer will only tell you the temp they used to get the stated rejection rate and flow rate, it is not a temp that you should try to match for your water. You should not be trying to run warm water through your membrane just stick with cold water only. If you accidentally run hot water through the membrane it will destroy it, but with an output tds of 1 and your di doesn’t look depleted I’d guess your membrane is fine.
I wouldn’t be too concerned over 1ppm but we would really need to know the tds of your tap water, after the membrane, and after the di.
Also, 144ppm from your tap is about the same as mine and isn’t very high at all for tap water.
I wouldn’t be too concerned over 1ppm but we would really need to know the tds of your tap water, after the membrane, and after the di.
Also, 144ppm from your tap is about the same as mine and isn’t very high at all for tap water.
I run cold water as well just because I figured there could be sediment in the hot water heater...just eliminates that route from the equation...
Thanks and yes I got the cheaper R/O buddy, lol. It’s a 50 gpd unit and fills a gallon jug in about 10 minutes. I went ahead and ordered all new cartridges just in case I might have ruined them. Of course I live in an apartment where aquariums are prohibited and so I’m stuck using buckets and jugs and no place to really store anything! Such a pain! I have to throw a blanket over my tank whenever maintenance comes lol
This also just came to me! I remember that the tds meter manufacturers stated it’s already calibrated and ready for use. However it’s also stated that with time it may need to be re-calibrated! Darn, my levels could be way off! I ordered the solution so I’ll know in a few days!
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My experience with the handheld tds meters are they usually measure 1-2 ppm randomly. My inline tds meter measures 0 on my rodi system. I had the RO buddy but eventually upgraded to the brs system because the ro buddy carriages are difficult to find while the brs system just uses standard filters.
I got the RO buddy because it was inexpensive and actually had decent reviews but I plan on replacing it in the future. For the reasons you mentioned and the better models are more user friendly etc. It does its job though… the big question is whether it’s me who’s screwing things up! Lol
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