In need of advice, reef tank "dying"

Maho.B

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Ok everyone, I will apologize in advance, this will be a fairly long post as I am looking for any possible advice and figured it would help to give you enough info. My reef tank is just coming up on being 1 year old and I set it up with the intention of it being a "mixed" reef.

System:

Tank: Red Sea Max S 400. Total water volume with sump is 110 gallons
Rock/Sand: Set up with Reef grade Caribsea sand and a mix of dry rock (arches, branches, foundation rock) can't remember the brand but it has the "fake" coraline type color to it
Filtration:
- Reef Octopus Regal 200 Protein skimmer
- ReefMat 500
- Several Biofilter Marine Pure blocks
Flow:
- 2 Red Sea Reef Waves 25's (one on each end of the aquarium)
- Two powerheads on back wall of tank (these come with the Red Sea Max 400)
- Ecotech M2 return pump
Lighting:
- 2 Red Sea Reef LED 90's

Current Fish:
- 2 Clownish
- 1 Royal Gramma
- 1 Tailspot Blenny
- 1 Randall's Goby
- 1 Geometric Pygmy Hawkfish
- 1 Court Jester Goby
- 1 Pink Streaked Wrasse (also called Cryptic)
- 1 Matted File Fish (was added a few weeks ago to try and help with some aptasia)

Here is a quick history. Once the through cycling and slowly added corals everything was doing well for about 6 months. Great polyp extension on the LPS and at the 5 month old stage I added 3 Acropora frags and for awhile they did great too, new growth tips, encrusting at the base, good PE. Around that 6-7 month range I noticed some of the corals were stressed. Within a few days most of the Acropora had tissue recession, a week later some of the LPS were dying as well. I consulted my LFS and did what they recommended to no avail. I bought a small carbon reactor (thinking there was a pollutant of some kind) and that didn't change anything, even the ICP test came back as all good. After a couple of weeks half of the corals had died, others survived. I didn't add anything for awhile and really focused on keeping everything steady and just "waiting" whatever it was out. Fast forward a few months, I felt all was stable, the corals that survived were doing well so I slowly started adding new corals. All was good until about 3 weeks ago...AGAIN started noticing stressed looking corals. This time was worse and within a couple of weeks 80% of the corals were either dead, dying or showing very poor PE. Even things like Favia/Favites and several Cyphastrea that were all encrusting/growing like crazy were completely dead within a week! At a loss I chose to wait it out again and keep things as stable as I can. As of a week ago with most coral gone, I decided to go after some Briopsis patches that were starting to grow quickly, after tons of reading about Briopsis I decided to dose Fluconazole (I am happy to report that it is absolutely working by the way) and that brings me to today and why I am telling you this. I would like to start adding corals again after the flux treatment but I have no idea why the past events happened and I do not want to go through it again.

I am diligent with testing and throughout the entire time period of the story above I kept all parameters stable, the only thing I had issues with were keeping Nitrate and Phosphate up (they were consistently hovering around 1.5sih and .01) so per this forums advice I started dosing with NeoNitro and NeoPhos to get those levels up into a better range, which it did.

Current Parameters (and these are pretty consistent day to day)

Alk: 7.8
Nitrate: 3.3
Phosphate: .04
Calcium: 410
Mag: 1340
Salinity: 1.026
Temp: 77.9
- Note: I stopped dosing nitrate/phos when I started the Fluconazole last week, so those are a little bit lower than usual right now.

Corals that dyed or are almost dead during the last issue: Various Acropora, Montipora (various types), Stylopora, Seriatopora, Anacropora, Favia, Cyphastrea, Leptoseris, Porites, and some Pavona.

Corals that did not die: Zoanthids, palythoas, a cabbage leather coral (the only leather in the tank), Psammocora, 1 Pavona, Lithophylon plate chalice, and Green star polyps.

The ONLY things I can think of that caused the massive die off:

1) Alkalinty slowly crept up to the 10 range (I found out that dosing NeoNitro increases Alk) so I took the doser offline and let it naturally fall back to the high 7's and now test daily and dose accordingly. Now it doesn't sway more than .2/3 in a 24hr period

2) I noticed my temp goes from 78 in the morning to 79 / 79.5 late in the day

Not sure if one of those things would cause all of this? I am asking for any advice as to what next steps should be before starting to add coral again. Watching a healthy coral die is no fun and I want to avoid it as much as possible again. Is there anything I am missing or could do differently to avoid this happening again? I will take any feedback at all, thanks!

By the way, throughout both coral dying events, all fish are completely happy and healthy.
 

Gribbles

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Sorry your going through this. I know how it feels for livestock to not thrive even though we feel like we're doing everything correctly.

Trying to follow your timeline here...how long has the tank been running in total?

Could you post a few pictures please? A full tank shot as well as some photos of dying coral. Use white lights please.

I highly doubt your temp swing is any issue at all, and if the alk slowly crept - weeks or months, not days - I also doubt that's an issue.

Your params look good for now. I'd like to see your nitrate above 5 and maybe closer to 10ish.

Tell us about your lighting. What lights are you using? (Edit: I see you are using red sea lights) How long is the photoperiod? Have you checked the par?
 
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Maho.B

Maho.B

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Thanks Gribbles. The tank has been running for almost one year now. I will send pics shortly when I get home. As for the time period when the Alk crept up, it was over two weeks. In that period it went from low 8's to as high as mid 10's. I am running 2 Red Sea Reef LED90's for 11 hours a day. It ramps for the first hour, then ramps down the last hour as well. It is currently set to blue 100% and White 50% throughout the day. I did rent a par meter about 7 months ago and the top rock work area is around the 350 par range and around 130 par in the corners on the sand bed, various par levels throughout the middle rock work. I'll try to get pics soon. Thanks.
 

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I would consider dosing aminos to supplement the low nitrate.
 
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Spare time, thanks for reminding me. I didn't give some of the other dosing info. I use Pohl's Coral Vitalizer 3 days a week (I think thats amminos) BUT when Aptasia showed up a few months ago I did cut the amminos way back as I read that it also feeds the Aptasia! I add green and gold phyto that my LFS cultures once or twice a month and I have put in all the common types of pods over time as well.
 
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Gribbles here are some pics I had on my phone from before the recent meltdown. Most of these are gone now so I won't have current pics of them, I will send pics of what I have left next. Sorry about the blue
 

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I do 15% water changes every two weeks and have kept that schedule since I started the system. With the exception of last week I skipped because I treated with Fluconazole for Briopsis. I buy the saltwater premixed from my LFS and it's Tropic Marin Pro. I use a Tunze for automatic top off and for that I buy distilled water from the store.
 
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Ok here are some pics of what is left. It's hard to tell but the hammer has one dead branch now and I included a pic of the Alveopora because it has not been one of the casualties yet but the polyp extension used to be crazy, like 4 or 5 inches, now it's sort of a tight ball as shown. On a side note, as you can see in the full tank pic I have let some fuzzy algae (assuming some type of hair algae grow on the back wall because my court jester goby LOVES it and he's fat and happy, other fish hunt it for pods too. None of it grows on the actual rock work so I assume it's okay to leave it on the back wall? Or does that throw off Nitrate/Phospahate testing?
 

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Maho.B

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It looks more like hair but I'm far from a dino expert. Awhile back I did have dinos on the sand bed in spots, raising the nutrients made them go away and the sand mostly cleared up. But those looked way different that the back wall. Maybe I should pull some off and bring to the LFS (they have a microscope) to see what kind of algae?
 

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You just finished flucanazole or are in the midst of treatment? Do you have bubble algae, hair algae, aiptasia, some vermetid snails, possibly other worms?

I am not an expert by any means - I still consider myself a rookie. But it seems to me the tank may be unstable. While I don't think anything of the above would harm your tank too much individually, all of them together is certain to be a nuisance and hindrance to corals
 
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Prior to the last coral loss, yes I started seeing tons of bubble algae (the really small bubbles that form patches) whatever the algae is in the back wall, a lot of aptasia popped up (they bothered me so I bought $300 worth of medium sized Berghia nudibranchs, which I haven't seen much effect yet) not sure about vermitid snails, how big are they? I do have tons of little white calcium looking "tubes" on the rock work, no other worms I've noticed.
 

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SPS don’t care for high alk and low nutrients.

Buying LFS water means you 100 percent trust every employee there. I would not. I’d rather buy distilled and mix it then buy pre made.

I don’t see any coralline algae. This is generally a good indicator of stability and SPS ready though not every tank seems to grow it.

I see lots of pests but that wouldn’t explain the whole tank doing bad. They just irritate what they touch.
 

Gribbles

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Prior to the last coral loss, yes I started seeing tons of bubble algae (the really small bubbles that form patches) whatever the algae is in the back wall, a lot of aptasia popped up (they bothered me so I bought $300 worth of medium sized Berghia nudibranchs, which I haven't seen much effect yet) not sure about vermitid snails, how big are they? I do have tons of little white calcium looking "tubes" on the rock work, no other worms I've noticed.
Those tubes are what the vermetid snails make to use as a home. They produce a mucus/slime net to catch their food. That can irritate corals.

I agree with the suggestion to mix your own saltwater at home with your own RODI unit. Ditch any chemicals for awhile. Make sure your cuc is up to par. Manual removal what you can. Get the tank stable with detectable nitrates and phos. I hope this helps
 
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Maho.B

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Great point about buying the saltwater, I'll take your advice and start mixing my own. There is Coraline growing in various areas, A lot of patches on the back wall but unfortunately they're kind of covered up with that weird algae now. Growing on the rocks in places as well. Thanks
 

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That’s frustrating. I know nothing but I did notice most of what died is SPS and most of what lived is softies. I hear it can be hard to make all types of corals happy when they prefer opposite things.
 

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The light power dropping would have helped stem some losses. It's the #1 trick we use in the examples

The method to disassemble your tank and rid it of rotting mass without recycling the tank is also included

Of course that can be skipped, it's work, but there's a reason we didn't skip it.
 
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Maho.B

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That’s frustrating. I know nothing but I did notice most of what died is SPS and most of what lived is softies. I hear it can be hard to make all types of corals happy when they prefer opposite things.
It is super frustrating! Ironically the system is set up to make SPS happier than softies in terms of flow, light and nutrients...I imagine they're just hardier/more forgiving of whatever the heck happened to my system. I'll be taking the advice of the posts above, mechanical removal of the algae, get nutrients up, mix my own water and keep things stable. Not sure what else to do.
 

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