I'm puzzled by the lack of coral growth in my tank.

[Dom]

Once upon a time, I had a 40 Long tank whose dimensions were 48"L x 12"H x 12"W. That tank had (4) Loop IC lights for a total of 148 watts. In this tank were a pair of clowns with Anemones and a bunch of Hammers and Zoas. Other than weekly water changes, I didn't use additives of any kind to replenish elements consumed by the tank. Over the course of the next 3 years, the corals E X P L O D E D with growth. So much so, that I upgraded to a 125 gallon.

I knew the LOOP IC lights would be inadequate to provide the necessary light to corals in the new tank as it is 19" deep. So I upgraded to (3) Hydra 32s.

I dose Randy's 2-part formula for Alkalinity and Calcium using the Simplicity dosing system. My parameters (tested today prior to this post) are as follows:

Salinity = 35ppt
pH = 8.2
Phosphate = .04
Nitrate = 30
Alkalinity = 8.8
Calcium = 480

The problem I can't solve: Why aren't my corals growing? They ARE surviving and healthy, but they just won't grow. It certainly isn't chemistry (I don't believe), and I made a $1500.00 investment into new lighting.

Any ideas?

Thank you,
Dom

 

[MoshJosh]

Parameters sound pretty good (I like N lower personally but you should be OK), what light settings/PAR?

What type of corals?

What do you feed?

 

[scotty333]

Mag
Ph
Temp
As above also

 

[UMALUM]

Can't help with leds as I've never owned one but your phosphate could be closer to 0 than you think. I would think euphyllia and zoas would enjoy a little more.

 

[Dom]

Parameters sound pretty good (I like N lower personally but you should be OK), what light settings/PAR?

What type of corals?

What do you feed?

I'm not concerned with PAR in this case. The tank only has Zoas and Hammers, specimens that do well with low flow and light.

I do not feed the corals directly.

 

[Dom]

@vetteguy53081
@Cichlid Dad

Care to share your thoughts?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I'm not concerned with PAR in this case. The tank only has Zoas and Hammers, specimens that do well with low flow and light.

I do not feed the corals directly.

I'd definitely recommend raising phosphate then... personally I'd target 0.3

 

[vetteguy53081]

Once upon a time, I had a 40 Long tank whose dimensions were 48"L x 12"H x 12"W. That tank had (4) Loop IC lights for a total of 148 watts. In this tank were a pair of clowns with Anemones and a bunch of Hammers and Zoas. Other than weekly water changes, I didn't use additives of any kind to replenish elements consumed by the tank. Over the course of the next 3 years, the corals E X P L O D E D with growth. So much so, that I upgraded to a 125 gallon.

I knew the LOOP IC lights would be inadequate to provide the necessary light to corals in the new tank as it is 19" deep. So I upgraded to (3) Hydra 32s.

I dose Randy's 2-part formula for Alkalinity and Calcium using the Simplicity dosing system. My parameters (tested today prior to this post) are as follows:

Salinity = 35ppt
pH = 8.2
Phosphate = .04
Nitrate = 30
Alkalinity = 8.8
Calcium = 480

The problem I can't solve: Why aren't my corals growing? They ARE surviving and healthy, but they just won't grow. It certainly isn't chemistry (I don't believe), and I made a $1500.00 investment into new lighting.

Any ideas?

Thank you,
Dom

First suspect is light/light intensity, water flow, and bump Phos to about .7 -.8
Have you checked and verified PAR?
I also recommend an ICP test to see if you are lacking items such as Boron, manganese as examples

 

[littlebeard]

How often do you do water changes? What percentage?

Have a par meter?

What types of corals?

 

[Spare time]

I'm not concerned with PAR in this case. The tank only has Zoas and Hammers, specimens that do well with low flow and light.

I do not feed the corals directly.

Could be too high of a par value

 

[Formulator]

I'd definitely recommend raising phosphate then... personally I'd target 0.3

I agree with raising phosphate, but most folks, including myself, would recommend 0.1 ppm. I’ve played in the 0.2-0.5 range before, but I’ve found better colors a bit lower. Granted, that observation was with SPS, so maybe in a softie only tank, 0.3 ppm would be a good place to be. Thinking out loud I think I came full circle

 

[Cichlid Dad]

@vetteguy53081
@Cichlid Dad

Care to share your thoughts?

If the hammer and zoa's are different from what you had in the other tank then this is my thoughts. I have in my reef at least 6-7 Euphyllia (yes I know but that is what everyone calls them so back off) LOL. I have tons of zoa all different. My very first hammer has only maybe doubled in size and went from two head to three in three years. I have a hammer I purchased with two small heads and in now 5 inches across and has 13 heads and it's only been a year and a half. The rest of the Euphyllia are in-between these two in growth. My zoa's the same way. I have a a bunch on smaller head Zoa's that are beautiful and heathy but not much growth, while I have a few that are growing too plague Level and will not be going into my new 120. All of this in the same tank. The zoa's I have issues with are up in the acro zone and are receiving higher par. That being said I also have fast growing zoa's in the middle of the tank. So it may be just slow growing strains. The other is how long has the tank been set up? It can take a while for coral to adapt to a new tank and lights before they take off. I agree with vettguy on par and phos. This is my setup and parameters.

4ft 75
6 bulb T5 4 blue+ 1 coral+ 1 actinic.

Cal 425-450
Alk 9.5-10
Mag 1425-1450
Phos .03-.1
Nitrates 25-50
Ph steady 8.3
30 gallon water change in a 100 gallon system every two weeks using reef crystals
Reef crystals 1.025 refractometer calibrated every use. I make sure the swings are minimal and use an ATO.

I test my new water and dose to match my tank parameters prior to water changes.

I just started dosing AB+ at a quarter of the recommended dose. Am now using Tropic Marin NP Bacto Balance . This is carbon dosing for a tank with stable phos and nitrates and I've seen a different, whether in my head or not, in a short time. Supposedly it is a form of carbon that bad bacteria can't use but the good bacteria can.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

I didn't catch the flow part, I have heavy flow in my tank. Never mind the water sounds, that is a fresh water tank I was working on not the reef.

 

[Rjukan]

bump Phos to about .7 -.8

Is this accurate? .70-.80?

 

[Cichlid Dad]

Is this accurate? .70-.80?

He ment .07-.08

 

[vetteguy53081]

Is this accurate? .70-.80?

Oops. . . .07 - .08

 

[Dom]

Could be too high of a par value

I lowered my intensity and extended the number of hours the lights are on.

 

[Dom]

Oops. . . .07 - .08

I knew what you meant! LOL

 

[Dom]

First suspect is light/light intensity, water flow, and bump Phos to about .7 -.8
Have you checked and verified PAR?
I also recommend an ICP test to see if you are lacking items such as Boron, manganese as examples

I purchased a pair of Nero 5s to add to my existing Neros. I know Hammers and Zoas do well in low light and flow, but perhaps there is too little flow...

 

[Dom]

How often do you do water changes? What percentage?

Have a par meter?

What types of corals?

I'm a firm believer in faithful, weekly 20% water changes. But the practicality of doing that weekly on 145 gallons (DT & Sump) isn't practical, so I've been dosing instead.

No PAR meter.

Hammers and Zoas