If I have Dinos in my Coral QT, is it worth battling?

CayoHueso

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Setup my first coral QT about a two weeks ago now. I've had my DT running for 6 months now. But I haven't had any lights on the tank, since I haven't had any corals. So I didn't realize quite how quickly nuisance algae can tank over a tank. Especially one that is fresh and clean like a freshly setup temporary coral QT. Needless to say there are a bunch of different nasties popping up in the QT. Some on the skeletons of the LPS, which could be a cyano, maybe BJD, and some on the surfaces of the frag rack (looks like black paint or ink with just a few individual small strings floating up) which could be cyano or... Dinos. Seems like it's fairly difficult to actually ID Dinos for a beginner.

My question is; is it futile to try and battle the Dinos and risk transferring them to my DT?

I don't want to end up braking down my tank and giving up in the first year like I hear about many people doing. As a beginner, should I really place that burden and risk on myself if these are possible Dinos?

Right now I plan on fighting them. I have the equipment and supplies. I have a HOB UV filter I plan on adding, I've got Dr. Tim's Waste Away, MicroBacter 7. I'm going to dip the corals in H2O2 per instructions I got from Humblefish. Clean off what I can see. I'm going to break down the tank, sterilize it and seed it again with bottled bacteria and fresh saltwater. This time making sure I ghost feed or dose Nitrate and Phosphate ( I have NeoNitro and NeoPhos). I also have Cipro if it turns out to be BJD. I have new CUC specifically for the tank being delivered tomorrow as well. I've got a small pocket microscope (1000x), and I'm going to try and grab some photos during this cleanup/breakdown process.

All of these extra supplies add up to more than the cost of the frags in the QT. So again, really, is it actually a battle that can be won? I'm more afraid I'll eliminate what I can see and keep them out of sight (manage them sort of like ich) and still introduce them to the DT.

The frags are opening up beautifully, and I really enjoy looking at them, especially since they are my first ones. I also appreciate that they are animals, and fell like I should give it my all. At the same time if I ordered a fish that I noticed had an infectious disease that I couldn't treat, I wouldn't add it my DT. That's what QT is for. I've read and witnessed other people say that at the first signs of BJD in QT they will toss a frag. And BJD seems easier to treat than Dinos.

Do I chalk this one up to beginners mistake, protect the integrity of my DT, breakdown the QT and move on, setting up better and for success the next time? Or do I try and beat what many seem to find unbeatable?

Any thoughts?
 

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What is the phosphate level?


I would not dip corals in h202. Their microbiome is too important to damage like that.
 

Jason_MrFrags

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Tell us about the qt tank setup. I'm guessing small tank with HOB filter? and feeding the corals

To have an effective QT you can't expect to set it up and be able to add corals and keep them for long term. I'm sure you didn't attempt to do that with the display before it was cycled and established.
 
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CayoHueso

CayoHueso

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Tell us about the qt tank setup. I'm guessing small tank with HOB filter? and feeding the corals

To have an effective QT you can't expect to set it up and be able to add corals and keep them for long term. I'm sure you didn't attempt to do that with the display before it was cycled and established.

-10 Gallon Eshopps Deskmate Florida
-Eshopps filter sock
-return pump that comes with the deskmate
-Eheim Jäger 50w heater
-AI Blade Grow light, set using a PAR meter to match DT lighting and in acclimation mode
-IM Frag Rack
-12 Maxspect Bio-spheres
-Seeded with a bottle of bio-spira

No I haven't fed the corals, just the lights. I have two blasto frags, two acan frags and one Duncan.
 

Spare time

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-10 Gallon Eshopps Deskmate Florida
-Eshopps filter sock
-return pump that comes with the deskmate
-Eheim Jäger 50w heater
-AI Blade Grow light, set using a PAR meter to match DT lighting and in acclimation mode
-IM Frag Rack
-12 Maxspect Bio-spheres
-Seeded with a bottle of bio-spira

No I haven't fed the corals, just the lights. I have two blasto frags, two acan frags and one Duncan.

The coral will starve if you haven't fed them. That is probably correlated with why you may have dinos too (as you likely have 0.00 phosphate)
 
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CayoHueso

CayoHueso

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What is the phosphate level?


I would not dip corals in h202. Their microbiome is too important to damage like that.
There seems to be an established protocol for dipping corals in H2o2.

And I've seen lots of posts on R2R about people dipping with H2o2 as treatment for Dinos.

I checked Nitrite and Ammonia a few days after setting up and seeding the tank with bottled bacteria, and both were at 0. I didn't check phosphate or nitrate, I assumed they were both at zero. Which I know is bad in developed system, I didn't think that nasties would appear in tank with zero fish and fish waste. I was wrong of course.

I just checked Nitrate and Phosphate now, this is after dosing Dr. Tim's Waste Away last night so the numbers may have been higher before dosing. But Nitrate is 4.3ppm and Phosphate is 0.03ppm.
 
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CayoHueso

CayoHueso

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These photos and a video are from the pocket microscope. Can someone take a stab at ID'ing? The "stuff" on the blasto skeleton looks different than what's on the frag rack. You can also see some on the base (glue) holding the Duncan frag. (I find the Google Chrome works best for viewing videos on R2R)

356e67b8-b70c-4306-9d7f-731b39c3d5bd.JPG PHO00003.JPG PHO00004.JPG PHO00005.JPG PHO00006.JPG PHO00007.JPG PHO00008.JPG PHO00009.JPG PHO00010.JPG
 

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CayoHueso

CayoHueso

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The microscope claims to be 1000x. But this is the best I could get. Any thoughts?

PHO00011.JPG PHO00012.JPG PHO00013.JPG PHO00014.JPG PHO00016.JPG PHO00017.JPG PHO00018.JPG PHO00019.JPG PHO00021.JPG PHO00015.JPG PHO00020.JPG
 

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