Ich?

[laezur]

Is this ich? It appeared today. I’m setting up a small tank now and heading to the store for medication and copper checkers.

Can I catch this before it affects my whole display? I don’t have a QT big enough to get all my fish in.

 

[spoons]

Sorry but that’s ich good luck

 

[vetteguy53081]

Is this ich? It appeared today. I’m setting up a small tank now and heading to the store for medication and copper checkers.

Can I catch this before it affects my whole display? I don’t have a QT big enough to get all my fish in.

View attachment 3111554View attachment 3111555View attachment 3111556

Not ich . While it looks like sand grains, may also be neobendendia flukes.
Is fish eating and breathing normal?
Any scratching on surfaces or darting across tank suddenly ?

 

[laezur]

Not ich . While it looks like sand grains, may also be neobendendia flukes.
Is fish eating and breathing normal?
Any scratching on surfaces or darting across tank suddenly ?

I’m at the shop now. It’s eating and breathing fine, acting normal and grazing. This showed up today. Are we SURE it’s not ich as I can buy something else while I’m here?

Appreciate quick response. Does it need quarantine? No scratching or darting.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’m at the shop now. It’s eating and breathing fine, acting normal and grazing. This showed up today. Are we SURE it’s not ich as I can buy something else while I’m here?

Appreciate quick response. Does it need quarantine? No scratching or darting.

Nodules too large to be ich not to mention location of them. You should always quarantine in the event disease arises. No QT becomes risk to tank and other occupants.
You cam give it a 5 minutes freshwater dip . If indeed flukes, they will dislodge.

 

[laezur]

Nodules too large to be ich not to mention location of them. You should always quarantine in the event disease arises. No QT becomes risk to tank and other occupants.
You cam give it a 5 minutes freshwater dip . If indeed flukes, they will dislodge.

This is somewhat a relief.

I have uploaded this video to show his behaviour as it may help. Please bare in mind it will take a short time to process into 1080p properly.


I am setting up a QT regardless for observation for a few days. I also have this medication on hand for flukes, am I best just observing before using this?

Can you please advise on how to do the freshwater dip without stressing/killing him? Just in a bucket of RO for 5 mins and remove if it looks on deaths door?

Also hope you don’t mind me tagging @Jay Hemdal as I always like a second opinion

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is somewhat a relief.

I have uploaded this video to show his behaviour as it may help. Please bare in mind it will take a short time to process into 1080p properly.


I am setting up a QT regardless for observation for a few days. I also have this medication on hand for flukes, am I best just observing before using this?


View attachment 3111585

Can you please advise on how to do the freshwater dip without stressing/killing him? Just in a bucket of RO for 5 mins and remove if it looks on deaths door?

Also hope you don’t mind me tagging @Jay Hemdal as I always like a second opinion

The other good news on ich- The fish has dots on one side. Ich would be on both. I see you are in UK. See if you can findSera Tremazole. If not, this should be ok in your pic. The nt Labs in pic is Not Reef safe.
NT Labs acriflavine also acceptable. Tremazole is best

 

[laezur]

The other good news on ich- The fish has dots on one side. Ich would be on both. I see you are in UK. See if you can findSera Tremazole. If not, this should be ok in your pic. The nt Labs in pic is Not Reef safe.
NT Labs acriflavine also acceptable. Tremazole is best

Awesome thank you, ich is scary!

I’ll see if I can find some of that. QT is going up as we speak, I’ve got a bucket of freshwater ready.

I just want to check, this can’t be a pigmentation thing can it? It’s already changed since I checked it an hour ago, and looks different. Compare the two Photos taken an hour apart.

First image: 1 hour ago

IMAGE TAKEN JUST NOW:

 

[Weeb]

This is somewhat a relief.

I have uploaded this video to show his behaviour as it may help. Please bare in mind it will take a short time to process into 1080p properly.


I am setting up a QT regardless for observation for a few days. I also have this medication on hand for flukes, am I best just observing before using this?


View attachment 3111585

Can you please advise on how to do the freshwater dip without stressing/killing him? Just in a bucket of RO for 5 mins and remove if it looks on deaths door?

Also hope you don’t mind me tagging @Jay Hemdal as I always like a second opinion

You asked for information regarding performing a freshwater dip.

Provides temporary relief of some parasites - Marine Velvet Disease, Brooklynella hostilis, Uronema marinum seem most susceptible to the osmotic shock.

A FW dip can also be used to dislodge certain crustaceans and worms, such as Parasitic isopods/copepods, Turbellarians and Flukes (Monogeneans). With Flukes, some genera (e.g. Neobenedenia) will turn white and be visible both during & after the dip (see video + photos below). Just because you don't see any signs of flukes in the dip water, doesn't mean that flukes weren't there. It would take a microscopic examination of the dip water to find gill flukes, for example.

What "Freshwater" To Use: There are 3 options:

1. RO or RODI (add a little saltwater salt to improve conductivity so that pH can be read accurately)
2. Water taken from a "clean" freshwater aquarium (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)
3. Dechlorinated tap water (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)

^^ With all of the above, pH should be raised to ~ 8.0 before placing fish in the dip water. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off carbon dioxide and water from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH booster. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.

How To Treat: Fill a bucket with freshwater, and use a heater to match temperature to the fish's source water. Aerate the water heavily (by using an airstone or small powerhead pointed towards the water surface) for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip; and then reduce (or even discontinue) aeration while performing the dip. Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, certain fish (e.g. tangs) are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch the fish's gills (they should be breathing heavily), and keep the fish upright & swimming at all times! If breathing slows, or the fish refuses to get up after chasing (BUT NOT TOUCHING) it with your hand, then it’s time to exit the dip! Dip the fish for no more than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish 24-48 hours to recuperate in-between freshwater dips.

For Flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if white sesame seed looking flukes (photos below) fall off the fish. The dead worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look there as well. Some flukes (especially Neobenedenia) are able to be seen with the naked eye; gill flukes would require microscopic examination. So, post dip let everything "settle" and then use a pipette to capture anything that might have come off the fish (also take samples off the bottom to examine under a microscope). See also: Flukes under microscope

Pros: Provides temporary relief for a wide range of parasites/worms in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done. A light dose of Methylene Blue (0.5 ml per gallon) can be added to the dip, if desired.

Cons/Side Effects: Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are usually not thorough enough to eliminate all of the parasites/worms afflicting a fish. (So, followup treatment in a quarantine tank is a wise course of action.) A freshwater dip SHOULD NOT BE DONE on weak/dying fish as it tends to "finish them off". Other fish can have an adverse reaction, once returned to their aquarium, by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and place the fish in front of a wavemaker (ON LOW) to get saltwater flowing through the gills again.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Awesome thank you, ich is scary!

I’ll see if I can find some of that. QT is going up as we speak, I’ve got a bucket of freshwater ready.

I just want to check, this can’t be a pigmentation thing can it? It’s already changed since I checked it an hour ago, and looks different. Compare the two Photos taken an hour apart.

First image: 1 hour ago
View attachment 3111589

IMAGE TAKEN JUST NOW: View attachment 3111590

My Tomini picks up sand occasionally why I suspect it. Just keep an eye on it.

 

[vetteguy53081]

You asked for information regarding performing a freshwater dip.

Provides temporary relief of some parasites - Marine Velvet Disease, Brooklynella hostilis, Uronema marinum seem most susceptible to the osmotic shock.

A FW dip can also be used to dislodge certain crustaceans and worms, such as Parasitic isopods/copepods, Turbellarians and Flukes (Monogeneans). With Flukes, some genera (e.g. Neobenedenia) will turn white and be visible both during & after the dip (see video + photos below). Just because you don't see any signs of flukes in the dip water, doesn't mean that flukes weren't there. It would take a microscopic examination of the dip water to find gill flukes, for example.

What "Freshwater" To Use: There are 3 options:

1. RO or RODI (add a little saltwater salt to improve conductivity so that pH can be read accurately)
2. Water taken from a "clean" freshwater aquarium (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)
3. Dechlorinated tap water (non-acidic i.e. pH should be 7 or greater)

^^ With all of the above, pH should be raised to ~ 8.0 before placing fish in the dip water. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off carbon dioxide and water from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH booster. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.

How To Treat: Fill a bucket with freshwater, and use a heater to match temperature to the fish's source water. Aerate the water heavily (by using an airstone or small powerhead pointed towards the water surface) for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip; and then reduce (or even discontinue) aeration while performing the dip. Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, certain fish (e.g. tangs) are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch the fish's gills (they should be breathing heavily), and keep the fish upright & swimming at all times! If breathing slows, or the fish refuses to get up after chasing (BUT NOT TOUCHING) it with your hand, then it’s time to exit the dip! Dip the fish for no more than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish 24-48 hours to recuperate in-between freshwater dips.

For Flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if white sesame seed looking flukes (photos below) fall off the fish. The dead worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look there as well. Some flukes (especially Neobenedenia) are able to be seen with the naked eye; gill flukes would require microscopic examination. So, post dip let everything "settle" and then use a pipette to capture anything that might have come off the fish (also take samples off the bottom to examine under a microscope). See also: Flukes under microscope

Pros: Provides temporary relief for a wide range of parasites/worms in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done. A light dose of Methylene Blue (0.5 ml per gallon) can be added to the dip, if desired.

Cons/Side Effects: Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are usually not thorough enough to eliminate all of the parasites/worms afflicting a fish. (So, followup treatment in a quarantine tank is a wise course of action.) A freshwater dip SHOULD NOT BE DONE on weak/dying fish as it tends to "finish them off". Other fish can have an adverse reaction, once returned to their aquarium, by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and place the fish in front of a wavemaker (ON LOW) to get saltwater flowing through the gills again.

He didnt ask- I mentioned of use of FW in the event of flukes. Sure looks like a humblefish page here

 

[laezur]

My Tomini picks up sand occasionally why I suspect it. Just keep an eye on it.

Okay, I’ll keep an eye on it. He was only added to the tank recently. I will see how he is fairing later tonight/tomorrow morning, and then setup the QT and go through with it if nothing changes?

With the quick change in appearance of the “spots” it may be this sand thing you’re talking about, I’ve never seen that before so I was worried. If they’re the same or worse in the morning he’ll go straight to QT. I worry taking him out and QT’ing him over sand will just add unnecessary stress leading to worse health implications.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Awesome thank you, ich is scary!

I’ll see if I can find some of that. QT is going up as we speak, I’ve got a bucket of freshwater ready.

I just want to check, this can’t be a pigmentation thing can it? It’s already changed since I checked it an hour ago, and looks different. Compare the two Photos taken an hour apart.

First image: 1 hour ago
View attachment 3111589

IMAGE TAKEN JUST NOW: View attachment 3111590

If youve picked up product from LFS, you can observe and in quarantine give the fish a treatment. Im not familiar with this NT lab products but most others. To be safe dose at 85% of recommended.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay, I’ll keep an eye on it. He was only added to the tank recently. I will see how he is fairing later tonight/tomorrow morning, and then setup the QT and go through with it if nothing changes?

With the quick change in appearance of the “spots” it may be this sand thing you’re talking about, I’ve never seen that before so I was worried. If they’re the same or worse in the morning he’ll go straight to QT. I worry taking him out and QT’ing him over sand will just add unnecessary stress leading to worse health implications.

Agreed and again, you can do the FW dip at less risk that medicating up front

 

[laezur]

Agreed and again, you can do the FW dip at less risk that medicating up front

Thank you for all of your help! I will update this tonight/tomorrow depending on any changes.

 

[laezur]

@vetteguy53081 A couple hours later, fish seems to be looking fine again?

Sorry he’s a good swimmer, very active - hard to get a picture of him lol

No more spots?

youtube.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

@vetteguy53081 A couple hours later, fish seems to be looking fine again?

Sorry he’s a good swimmer, very active - hard to get a picture of him lol

View attachment 3111792View attachment 3111794View attachment 3111795

No more spots?

youtube.com

As I stated earlier, Mine will pick up sand- Same with my chocolate tang occasionally

 

[laezur]

I think we are in the clear

Beautiful Tomini Tang

youtube.com

 

[Weeb]

He didnt ask- I mentioned of use of FW in the event of flukes. Sure looks like a humblefish page here

He did ask in post #6
"Can you please advise on how to do the freshwater dip without stressing/killing him?"

And yes, it is a modified Humble post. It's good. I don't/didn't claim it was mine.

 

[vetteguy53081]

He did ask in post #6
"Can you please advise on how to do the freshwater dip without stressing/killing him?"

And yes, it is a modified Humble post. It's good. I don't/didn't claim it was mine.

I realize his question as I suggested in #5 to perform a 5 min dip. No sense me getting petty over it - he was assuring best way.